UKC

London Wall beta.

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 jack1996 08 Aug 2011
Hoping to get London Wall done on top-rope this weekend (conditions dependent) and I was hoping to get some beta on crack climbing, help me please!
OP jack1996 08 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: i've done some before but not much
 Offwidth 08 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: Why not try the many easier finger crack climbs at Millstone first. A mega classic like London Wall should really be saved for an onsight, you might regret not doing so as you improve.
OP jack1996 08 Aug 2011
In reply to Offwidth: thats a good plan, i'll save it for an end of year goal perhaps o.O...
 Dan Lane 08 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

I agree with Offwidth, you'll regret top-roping it. Try the easier crack climbs first.
 Keendan 08 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

Agree with the others. I've had more unrealistic goals myself in the past, so I completely understand your desire to try it.

Now I'm in the same position: I'd like to try and flash it when I improve.

I tried the finger cracks at Millstone, and just flashed Regent street.
Next on my list is Billy Whiz, and the right hand crack of Embankment 2.
Have a look at this list for some progression http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=188

Dan
 Swig 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

Just in case you haven't actually googled London Wall Beta.

http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Beta_Cheater_Guide_to_London_Wall_259.ht...
In reply to jack1996: It's amazing how attitudes change. I've done almost every route at Millstone but never felt good enough to try London Wall. Despite this I have never once considered top roping it. Must be getting old.

Al
 Enty 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

You're not the only one Al.

E
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants: Hey! Don't tar all us younger generation with the same brush! I wouldn't think of top-roping or seconding London Wall!
OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell: I'm tempted to just go for the onsight come sunday! looks well protected, so cant see any problems about broken legs!
In reply to jack1996: It's like all well protected routes Jack, it's only well protected if you put good kit in!

Looking at your logbooks it seems as though you have a long way to go before you have the necessary mileage and experience for this route. London Wall is strenuous which means putting in good kit will get you pumped, this is ok as long as you ignore the pump and hang around until you get good kit in, however, it is very easy to feel the pump rise in your arms and just clip the gear you have and try to keep moving, which could lead to broken legs.

With only one E1 onsight lead, and on a very different style to this it would be a good effort to onsight. I advise you to build up your experience and move through grades until you are ready for London Wall. I know some VERY good climbers who have fallen off this at the lower section and they had a lot of experiance before getting on it.

Have a good day cragging whatever you do, if you get on it, Good luck!

Dunc
OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell: hmm, it just feels like i want to do it, might change when i look up at it though!
cheers for the info
 James Oswald 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:
I think onsighting LW this weekend is very ambitious for someone who has lead just one E1. I admire your attitude but
This isn't meant as an offence in any way I just think you could hurt yourself if you fail to place the gear properly when pumped.
LW is also my 2 year goal and I'm planning on following this ticklist as practice.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=188

Good luck if you go for it!
OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to James Oswald: plan is to do embankment 3 & 4 then maybe follow the rest of the ticklist training thing
In reply to jack1996: Just realised. You are the same guy who was asking if you needed nuts on grit, you have only climbed E1 previously, never been on grit and you are now planning to lead London Wall. Talk about balls!!! When are you attempting this? I think I might sell tickets. I'm afraid young man that you are in for a very, very rude awakening. Please, please come back next week, assuming you survive to let us all know how you got on. Oh and just so that I don't appear too negative good luck, you will need lots of it.

Al
1
OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants: yeah, that was me! your words of wisdom have talked me out of it, doing some easier routes and then will decide whether to consider trying it at a later date.
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants: Come on Al, don't be such an old groucho, he's like all young lads... inspired by hard classics and wants to be climbing them NOW, soon enough he'll learn that there are some absolutely classic routes and awesome experiences to be had at all grades, and a slow, steady progression will give a longer and more fulfilling climbing career than becoming brilliant at one style of climbing and completely crap at all others.

Don't go all 'UKC-I'm Holier than thou' on him, it will make him less likely to listen, and he may forsake the ethics of old, and that would be a great shame!

Dunc
 poeticshambles 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Swig: I find that really inspiring for some reason, hope I'm good enough to do it some day.
 jas wood 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: NO don't top rope it for reasons already stated ! There is planty of safe finger cracks to lead on your way upto leading london wall. try some of the safe finger cracks first (i,d start at HVS).

You will definately regret top roping it as it will ruin an awesome route you should be capable of onsighting in the future. no rush just get out and enjoy the grade your climbing at !
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

I wouldn't worry, if he has never climbed on grit and has only led E1 (Tennis Shoe Direct!!) he won't get high enough on London Wall to hurt himself.


Chris
In reply to Duncan Campbell: Yes you are quite right. I keep forgetting that I was young and reckless once. Luckily I survived with just a fractured skull, broken ribs and a dislocated elbow. To the OP: Good luck.

In reality I think he will realise very quickly that it is out of his league and that is a better way of learning than listening to some old fart who is past his sell by date.


Al
OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Chris Craggs: by the way, just because i've only led an E1 that doesnt mean i can write out every route above that grade. i accept that tennis shoe direct isnt really E1 probably more like F4 climbing but the runouts are stupidly big, but besides, the fact that ive led E1 isnt what made me consider trying london wall. i was just inspired after hearing alex honnold solo it ages ago and when a friend offered to take me to millstone i just thought of london wall. so before you and many others start talking about failing on it, just think that you dont know me and my ukc doesnt tell you every detail about my climbing.
 Microwired22 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Chris Craggs: Agreed.

To OP, try E1 on grit, get suitably shocked, re-consider London wall and then get some do-able stuff done when you're in the peak.

C
 bigjeff 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: if you think tennis shoe direct has stupidly long run outs then imagine a similar run out when your on around F7a+/b climbing above your last rubbish runner that you placed when you were pumped.
the embankment routes are pumpy enough if you not used to finger locking on grit, and those finger locks are good.
sorry to seem harsh but its incredibly over ambitious.
Jeff
OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to bigjeff: i didnt say i was worried about the run outs, you can run up idwal slabs. besides, you can all give up now, if you'd have taken time to read the recent posts.
 bigjeff 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: i didnt either say you were worried about the run outs i was just trying to tell you that you could be a serious scenario on harder climbing and above worse gear.
i would also like to see you run up idwal slabs, have you thought about doing a UK tour???
 woodybenwood 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: calm down.
OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to bigjeff: have you done idwal slabs?
In reply to bigjeff: Come on mate, give him a break. He has heeded advice and you are just rubbing salt in the wound, you know full well what he means by 'running up Idwal Slabs'.
 Bulls Crack 12 Aug 2011
In reply to CragRat_Trad:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs) Agreed.
>
> To OP, try E1 on grit, get suitably shocked,
> C

Why? Are they hard?
OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell: thanks man, it seems you are the only one who understand what it is to be young and inspired! but on a serious note now, i have decided to come back down to earth and will do some easier stuff to gain some technique before i try london wall later in my life
 Microwired22 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Bulls Crack: I think someone thats lead one E1 (thats not E1) and never climbed grit, will find E1 on Grit very hard! Grits always on the hard side compared to many other climbing areas, of course until your master it, then you can climb anywhere!
 Microwired22 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: Hi Jack,

Good call! No ones trying to put you down, or rub salt into it etc..You've made the right decision, everyone gets inspired by things that are out of our league (at the moment). Keep plugging away, keep getting inspired and one day you'll be topping out on LW!

Good luck,
C
In reply to jack1996: Cheeky! Thats cos I am young and inspired! Yeah I totally know where you are coming from, you see these awesome looking lines, hear about their history and read all about the top climbers of the day crushing hard routes... we all want to be the same!

Last year, I became pretty good at slab climbing, raising my game from E1 onsight to a couple of E4s on the slate, but could only climb E2 on any other rock type. This year I decided to become a more rounded climber and have become relatively solid at E3, and have climbed E4 at suicide wall, but still got shut down on pembroke E4 - yep well protected but so steep I was getting battered putting the kit in!

The real game-changer for me this year was realising that the quicker you improve the more you miss out on:

a) becomeing a better all round climber, this in turn narrows the sort of routes you can actually get on, your ego wont let you drop grades to do different styles, but all you can climb is style x routes.
b) you might end up peaking super early and feeling frustrated for the rest of your climbing life.
c) soma amazing routes, every grade has em' and they are best savoured when around your limit!

I've also hit the ground a few times from being over-ambitous... plus it gets kinder hard failing all the time!

Enjoy your climbing, and remember there is no hurry! Have a great time at Millstone, I am MEGA psyched to get there!

Dunc

OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell: thats good to hear, that someone else was once in my position! the reason for my inspiration: since i started trad I've been looking for trad climbs that actually feel like climbing (i.e my limit, vertical, something scary), because all of my previous routes, although they clearly are climbing, have never pushed me out of my comfort zone, and they haven't felt hard in the slightest, even top roping and E4 felt comfortably easy! thus why i wanted to do something hard at millstone; vertical cracks that would actually feel like climbing!
 Microwired22 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: Leading E4 and Top roping E4 arn't even on the same planet..that tiny bit of weight the top top takes (even if you think it's doing nothing) will help, that bit extra balance, don't need to stop for gear, no weight of the gear on the harness etc etc..and E4 lead would certainly be harder and scarier than i think you might think..

Point is,we've all done it, top roped a certain and then gone to lead it and gone, "omg"..just let it come start on E1 at milestone, see how it feels and let it build slowly, like dunc says, you'll get more satisfaction from your climbing this way.

You're already doing well..15 and leading E1, thats already good!
 Brass Nipples 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

There's some cracking VS at Millstone. Have a go at some of those. There's also some nice HS I enjoyed at Millstone in my first few months climbing.

Have a look at the following Millstone routes

Covent Garden VS 4b,4b
Embankment 2 VS 4c,4b
Embankment 1 VS 4c
The Great Slab HS 4a
Eartha HS 4a

That'll give you a taste at more amendable grades.

Phil

OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to CragRat_Trad: oh yeah, dont get me wrong, i know leading and toproping are way different, even with my 1m slack prefernce! but im sure you understand what i meant in my last post about a route that pushes my limit. But hey ho, i'll do it oneday.
 Keendan 12 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

I'll be at Lawrencefield tomorrow. Might pop over the road for my partner to try Regent St. Maybe see you around. Take care.

Dan
OP jack1996 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Daniel Heath: i'll be there sunday not tomorrow sorry
 teflonpete 13 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

Regent Street might not be a bad bet if you want to try a steep crack line. Too hard for this old fart but it looks well protected, why not give that a go on the lead and see how you get on. It'll give you an idea of what E2 is like on grit so you've got a better idea of what to expect from E5. You're obviously a talented climber if you're leading E1 at 15 but it would be horrible to see you hurt yourself on something you weren't prepared for. Personally I get on alright on E1 on Pembroke limestone but struggle on grit HVS, give yourself the opportunity to get used to grit before you push the boat out too far. Good luck :0)
 Rich Guest 13 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

I think you should avoid the beta and try and solo London Wall onsight dude!

I'm a great believer that if you're gonna be a cocky trolling tw*t, you should do it in the purest style possible...

I also promise to uphold my trademark 'Don't judge, fetch grapes' policy!!
OP jack1996 13 Aug 2011
In reply to Cragrat Rich: haha! although it'd be awesome i dont think im that stupid, at least with a rope theres some saftey!
OP jack1996 13 Aug 2011
In reply to teflonpete: might give it ago if i feel good tomorrow!
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to teflonpete: just to let you all know how i got on led embankment 3 and seconded embankment 4 and regent street, all felt really nice climbing, think i like finger cracks now, am well pleased with the E1 lead! it actually felt like proper climbing
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: didnt even get a top rope on london wall due to someone working it all day
 NorthernGrit 15 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:
> (In reply to jack1996) didnt even get a top rope on london wall due to someone working it all day

From a top rope or ground up?
 Offwidth 15 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: That should be a smile: you will regret top-roping London Wall.
In reply to jack1996: Nice one Jack, don't worry about London Wall, plenty of time for that! Super jealous you went to Millstone, I've been trying to get there for a while now! Regent Street looks amazing, and I'm dying to leave the crack on Time for tea and commit to the crux!

Well done on what most would consider a solid E1 onsight! Keep up the enthusiasm and don't let the old farts on here put you off, but at the same time think about what you are doing and you won't go far wrong!

Keep it up!

Dunc
 snoop6060 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell:

Leaving the crack and doing the top is not the crux of time for tea, its absolutely piss. The crack is the crux! and the route is probably really a bold E1 (= E2).
 Goucho 15 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996: For someone who's only just led E1 on grit, I really do admire your ambition to even be thinking about London Wall.

However, without wishing to poor cold water on your dreams and ambitions (go for them all, and enjoy - wish I was young again!) and to use another analogy, given your current experience and grade, it's the equivalent of passing your driving test on Monday and then planning to do the Paris Dakar Rally in Ford Mondeo on Thursday.

London Wall is a hard route, and it probably still stops 3 out of 4 attempts by people already climbing around that grade, and getting bomb proof gear in, is deceptively difficult.

Bide your time, and wait till your really going well at that grade and feeling strong, then go for an onsight - trust me it will be worth the wait.

OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to NorthernGrit: the one bloke did it first time on lead, and then another dogged his way up to the route to get some pictures :L
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell: cheers man, i really enjoyed the crack climbing and it definatly fet like climbing, hope you get there soon
 Keendan 15 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

Well done on all those routes. You need to be fairly solid at the style to lead Emb 3 without slumping onto gear.

On Saturday I met the guy who said he was going to try London Wall on Sunday. I was in a fortunate position to take photos of him cleanly putting away "Tea for Two" on Sat.

I'm glad to hear he did it clean. He was wondering which style to lead it in but it's good he got it on lead first try!

Next time try Emb 2 right hand. It's very cool!
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Daniel Heath: the guy who did it clean had brown hair if that helps to verify? and thanks on the congrats, i think finger cracks may be my favorite climbing! is emb 2 right hand where you climb with just the right hand crack? if so i got half way up and just used both instead when seconding, didnt realise it was a separate route!
 Keendan 15 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

It's a bit eliminate obviously, but very worthwhile. I seconded it the other day. I think it would be a nightmare having to place gear on it, but the climbing is cool as.

Agree with Offwidth. It's a good think you didn't get on London Wall this time round!
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Daniel Heath: now i like finger cracks im glad i left it, how long it is until i lead i dont know.
 Keendan 15 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

Yeah that was probably him. He was South African too.
In reply to jack1996: I think you were looking at my beautiful brown locks Jack

And in my opinion you should top rope it if you want. Not top roping harder stuff will hold you back in your climbing eventually and you'll find that at least 95% of climbers who have climbed E7 and above have done a fairly significant amount of it. Too many people hold routes like LW to dearly to their hearts and then never actually get things done.

Take your own path and make your own mind up (whilst not listening to plonkers like me on climbing forums of course!).
 Keendan 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:

Not the chap I was thinking of then. What are the chances of two lead attempts on the same day!
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: haha, probably was, if you were the guy wearing the red/purpley rab jacket and making it look easy while carrying the gear in your mouth then, yes it was you! nice one though i still dont know if im gonna toprope it but i probably will eventually
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Daniel Heath: i know! probably from the same party...
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Daniel Heath: bald and southafrican? he was the guy who dogged his way up
In reply to jack1996: It was indeed a Rab Jacket. Very brand conscious

And as for Rob..... I'm sure he'd like to be known as the "extremely good looking guy" rather than "balding" ha ha!

Rob, if you're reading this - good to see you Sunday!
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: clearly not conscious about the trouser-sock-tuck combo!
 gingerwolf 15 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:
> (In reply to TomPR) clearly not conscious about the trouser-sock-tuck combo!

worked for ron fawcett
In reply to jack1996: What?! Nah, nah, I'm bringing the Ned-Look to the crag. 2012 you'll see all the cool kids doing. Or not....
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: im not sure if you can see this pic but it sounds like you stole my friends idea?! https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1793478918186&set=t.602868649&a...
 simon cox 15 Aug 2011
In reply to jack1996:

London Wall is easier than its reputation, though it might be harder if the tat isnt on the old pegs or if they are no longer there - either way as soon as you move left after the first 25 feet it is pretty much in the bag - the top is much easier than the bottom.

I suggest you give it a go on the lead for starters as it would be much more exciting that way and you might suprise yourself.

If you can do 7a at the wall, as long as you can finger jam I am sure you could get up it some way - its more a question of how many times you need to top rope it before it goes.

Ultimately I think you should make up your own mind - as if you did top rope it half a dozen times then led it maybe that would dispel a lot of myths about E5 and you would climber harder faster. Alternatively get on Track of the Cat at the Roaches - that is piss for E5 - maybe E2 on a cold day!

Enjoy,
OP jack1996 15 Aug 2011
In reply to simon cox: your slowly convincing me to have a go now! But I think im going to do a bit more crack climbing before I try it! longer shiz to get endurance and experience hopefully soon i'll give it a go!
 simondgee 22 Aug 2011
In reply to simon cox:
top roping e5 to break the myth is good but there are plenty of rubbish e5s to do it on and save the 3 star routes like LW for the onsight when the myth is banished.

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