UKC

This is just a plea for help.

I am about to finish off the regearing at Masson Lees (only Grand Theft Auto, Exorcised and Cattle Mutilation Expedition to do) and Smalldale right-hand crag, where all of the routes will be re-equipped with extra bolts added where needed.

The bolts have been provided out of the BMC better bolts campaign but I have to provide the cost of the glue out of my own pocket.

I have no complaints about this but would appreciate any controbutions that anyone would like to help me with. You can find a paypal account on my web site: http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/ or can contact me directly.

In reply to Gary Gibson:

Donation made. Thanks Gary.

In reply to Oceanic:

Ditto.


Chris

In reply to Gary Gibson: Thanks chaps. Just buying the glue now!

In reply to Gary Gibson: I've climbed (and fallen) so often on your bolts, thank you

In reply to Gary Gibson:

Nice one Gary, your work is always appreciated.

In reply to DrGav: Bump

In reply to Gary Gibson:

Anybody know how to thread the pigs tail lower offs that are on the main wall at masson lees properly? I always seem to get a twist in the rope.

Fully approve of not having to mess about re-threading but I can't seem to do it right thats all.

In reply to petellis: Two half twists clockwise. Pull through bottom loop onto end of pigs tail and chase it round clockwise until it comes onto the bottom loop. Or go to http://www.bolt-products.com/SinglePointLower-offs.htm to see. Once you've done it they are easy. Their price is also here.

In reply to Gary Gibson:
Thanks for all the work Gary, donation made.

In reply to Gary Gibson: Gary what resin do you prefer to use for limestone, which manufacturer??

cheers Redsetter

In reply to Gary Gibson:

Thanks Gary for all your hard work, I've sampled the fruits of your labour many times.

Great that you are doing Smalldale: great venue.

Mend soon.

Mick

In reply to Gary Gibson:

Donation made. Went to Masson first time last week. Cheers Gary.

Ged

In reply to chubbs2: Thanks Ged

In reply to najki_2000: I use whatever I can get my hands on. Currently I have a few tubes of Hilti HY Hit 150 Max and a couple of Hilti RE500, the slower setting stuff which is really useful despite its colouring: you can drill and glue at the same time without having to have loads of ropes etc. It saves weight as I already have to carry a 90 pounds plus rucsack. In fact I'm feeling tired thinking about it.

I also have two tubes left of a Fischer glue from last year but that was quite expensive (£13 a tube). I use what I can get my hands on the cheepest.

In reply to Gary Gibson: Ok,thanks, cool do you ever consult the manufacturers data sheets to find out if the resin of choice is suitable for the chosen substrate, i.e limestone?

Alarm bells are ringing by your line quote, "what ever is cheepest". I know bolting a route is expensive, but surely this would be no substitute for using the right glue.

Do you ever carry out a percentage load test on placed anchors?. i.e 1 in every 10 ?

I do not by any means wish to undermine your knowledge or experience.

thanks

Redsetter

In reply to najki_2000:

I have consulted many data sheets and don't take my responsibilities lightly as you seem to suggest. I have discussed the matter many times with various reps and chemists as well as having advice from other sources, one notable being Jim Titt whose opinion I have complete trust in.

I am probably, well its not probably it is a fact, the person who has bolted/rebolted most routes in Britain and wouldn't want my actions to have a detrimental affect on the safety of climbers.

I have done loading tests under the guize of the BMC at Horseshoe quarry, which have been made available and sat on the technical committee of the BMC in relation to bolting.

By choosing the cheepest I aim to save money but I don't choose any inappropriate glues whatsoever. I will not choose a cheap inappropriate glue, what's the point as it defeats the object. In fact I try to only use Hili as I have onfirmation of its safety.

I hope that satiates your concerns?

In reply to Gary Gibson:
Was there not an accident a while ago where no hardener/insufficient hardener was used which allowed a staple to simply pull free when someone rested on it? Chee Dale wasn't it?

In reply to najki_2000:

Don´t worry, Gary knows what he´s doing though perhaps "cheepest suitable glue" might have sounded better!

And behind the scenes there is more exchange of knowledge than you might think, earlier this evening I mailed Gary about a potential problem we have come across in our testing with a glue newly available in the U.K. The bolts wouldn´t fail but certainly aren´t getting the numbers we would expect so we don´t want to see it used for the moment.

Jim

In reply to jimtitt: Hi Jim, thanks for the supporting comments.

In reply to Gary Gibson: Just to keep it at the top of the postings.

In reply to Gary Gibson:

Bump

In reply to Gary Gibson:

Gary, whilst we are on the subject of bolting, could you comment on the following. I have noticed that some of your routes have quite wide spacing between bolts. Whilst I am not afraid of run outs in the right circumstances and have done my fair share of sportingly bolted routes in Europe (as well as trad of course), I wondered if this was something you routinely did (for ethical or financial reasons) or if I happened across a few examples which didn't reflect your normal practice.

In reply to Gary Gibson:

I have about 10 tubes of HY20 that you can use (I think it's just gone out of date). Not quite the right application but happy for you to come get it...

In reply to JonC: Hi Jon. I bolt them as I decide. That isn't meant to be rude but I make the descision at a moment in time, although apart from one or two examples I could mention, Smalldale right-hand perhaps being one, I don't think they are too bad. In relation to perhaps HQ, that was to morror the original style of climbing there but I haven't heard many, if any, complaints about Chee Dale, Masson Lees, Hall Dale, Intake, Colehill, Harpur Hill, Blackwell Halt (which I rebolted), Smalldale RH (which I rebolted), Trevor Rocks, Llanymynech etc etc.

What I do not try and do is overbolt them and make them like a climbing wall. Variety is the spice of life I believe.

I intend resolving the issue at Smalldale Right-hand, but it does cost a lot of money as you allude to, hence the reason for the post: I hope you feel like contributing to the fund to aid my efforts.

In reply to Gary Gibson: Hey gary, you should have said when I saw you sunday, cheers for rebolting my routes at masson - i'll sub you when i see you next. Cheers! see you soon