UKC

"No lower-offs" at a sport crag?

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 MatthewV 09 Sep 2021

The guidebook entry for Raasmi says "belays are in place at the top of the cliff (no lower-offs".

Does that mean I should expect a stake or similar to belay off at the top, or am I going to need to take nuts/cams to construct a belay trad-style?

Makes quite a difference to how much clobber I take to Shetland...

 sparrigan 09 Sep 2021
In reply to MatthewV:

Others may have more direct experience from Shetland - but personally if I read this I would assume it to suggest that there is fixed gear at the top of the crag, but that you should abseil from it, rather than be lowered off - in order to reduce wear to the equipment.

That is unless there's more context in the guidebook to suggest otherwise - definitely some room for ambiguity though!

Post edited at 15:12
 bigbobbyking 09 Sep 2021
In reply to MatthewV:

You might want to edit your post title to get the attention of someone with knowledge of the crag in question. 

 Cog 09 Sep 2021
In reply to MatthewV:

There are no lower offs at this crag but there are bolts behind. Best to lead the route and continue back to the bolts. It is an easy walk off.

Nice spot and handy when there is a big swell, I thought some of the routes were under graded.

Post edited at 16:42
 Tony & Sarah 09 Sep 2021
In reply to MatthewV:

We visited this crag a couple of years ago, on one of our many trips to Shetland. In our opinion this crag is a pile of rubbish and a waste of good bolts which seemed to be suffering with corrosion. Shetland climbing is brilliant but the climbing at Raasmi really isn't.

Tony & Sarah

In reply to sparrigan:

I'd read it the same but rather that the bolts at the top would be positioned such that they couldn't be used to lower off, e.g. back from the edge so the rope would get stuck or something, but they could be used to anchor a top belayer.  If you want to just reduce wear then you can put your own krab or maillon on as is good practice if multiple people are climbing/if you're top-roping at any sport crag.

Post edited at 17:33
 Andy Gamisou 09 Sep 2021
In reply to Tony & Sarah:

> We visited this crag a couple of years ago, on one of our many trips to Shetland. In our opinion this crag is a pile of rubbish and a waste of good bolts which seemed to be suffering with corrosion. Shetland climbing is brilliant but the climbing at Raasmi really isn't.

> Tony & Sarah

This was the experience of my wife and myself a few years ago.  We couldn't take full rack, but thought could just about pack a small sports rack and try here.  Bit of a mistake.

 Webster 09 Sep 2021
In reply to MatthewV:

cant comment on specifics, but generally speaking, when talking about sport, a description such as that will mean that there are double bolt anchors at the top of the pitch, but no chain and malloin (or any other combination) to equalise them. this will either mean that you have to top out and abb down, or top out and walk off.

 MatthewV 10 Sep 2021
In reply to Andy Gamisou:

Bad rock, boring routes, terrible location, or something else wrong with it?

 JMarkW 10 Sep 2021
In reply to MatthewV:

> Bad rock, boring routes, terrible location, or something else wrong with it?

6m routes......

 The Pylon King 10 Sep 2021
In reply to Tony & Sarah:

>  ......good bolts which seemed to be suffering with corrosion.

A bit of a misnomer there?

 Cog 10 Sep 2021
In reply to MatthewV:

> Bad rock, boring routes, terrible location, or something else wrong with it?

In my opinion the condition of the bolts is fine, I’ve clipped bolts in much worse condition in various countries.

The climbing is good and the location is nice but 10m routes on average is short for the area. There are not many routes there but the crag is more sheltered than some crags in the area and access is easy.

In reply to MatthewV:

Raasmi was set up by Paul and Al Whitworth, together with a few friends, as a place to fart about when the conditions were iffy elsewhere. It's on land belonging to their parents' croft at Leascole nearby. It's a sort of mini outdoor climbing wall where beginners can lead a route then belay from the top, like on real climbs. Even practice a bit of gear placing.

Also been used to break the ice at parties.

It was never conceived as a full-on sports crag; and anyway, come on, who the hell goes to Shetland for bolt-tourism?

 RossJ 06:59 Sat
In reply to Andy Long:

Well said Andy. Shetland isn't a bolt climbing destination and the lines at Raasmi are pleasant but nothing to make a significant trek for.

Matthew, the best bet is take a small rack and sling a rope down some of the trad routes at any of the crags. That way you enjoy some great climbing. 


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