UKC

Going for a week in June. Done some research but looking for insider knowledge.
Anyone recommend any classics around HVS - E2, or going up to E4 as long as they're safe and don't have hideous grovelling topouts (I know it's a big ask)? Also in the market for unmissable routes in the lower grades.
Also what's it like getting around up there? Will probably relocate every couple days but how much of the day is eaten up getting to crags?
 

Ravensheugh Crack (HVS 5a)

Kyloe out 

HVS Coldstream Corner, Wilfred Prickles,

VS Tacitation, Slab and Wall,

Bowden Doors

Black and Tan, only S but it's great, there's an HVS alt finish, Canada Crack HVS, Lorraine and Tiger Wall at VS

Done some good routes at Crag Lough and Peel out to the west but being involved in the third MRT/helicopter rescue in as many months a good few years ago as various bits fell off I've not been back.

Bowden, Kyloe, Curtis, The Wanneys, Simonside, Corbys are all pretty close together. I live in north Newcastle and Bowden and Peel are longest travel at probably an hour for me, 

Mark

You can get a lot done between Kyloe Out and the Bowdens. No far between them and lots to do.

See also Baluster Crack (HVS 5b) and The Trouser Legs (E2 5c)

Over at Bowden there's The Overhanging Crack (E2 5c) which chewed me up and spat me out.

Nortumberland E2? You'll find them in any guidebook - helpfully marked as VS.

Very popular Great Wanney classic

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/great_wanney-833/northumberland_wa...

Bit out of the way and lower grade, but always thought Marcher Lord, VS, at Berryhill well worth doing if in the area.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/berryhill-823/marcher_lord-626 .

Sandy crag: Angel Fingers HVS and Sandy Crack E2 5C

Great Wanney: Great Wall HVS and Northumberland Wall E2 5c

Crag Lough: Main Wall severe. Crystal HVS. Why Not Direct HVS

Pinnacle Face VS. Chariot Race E3. Monolith Wall HS. Hadrians Buttress HS

All the Kyloe routes previously mentioned plus: The Elevator HVS.

Lost Property HVS. Saints Wall S. Gargarins Groove HVS. Deception Corner HS. Tactatiion VS

You can have a nice day walking into Hen Hole depending on where you park....

Brilliant!

Indeed, I used to think the same about the severes.

Corby's Crag - Audacity Hvs. A few other nice routes there too around that grade.

Definitely need Whinstone Churchill on that list at E2, it's excellent.

Kyloe Out

• Devil's Edge (HVS 5a) 
• Tacitation (VS 5a) - for the start 

Low grade but shouldn't be missed

• Sunset (S 4a) - just a great climb, in a great place.  
• Squeezy Bill (VD) - Do it.  DO IT!  I couldn't do it.  Too many pies.  One of only 3 DNFs in my logbook and it's a VDiff.  Don't judge.

If you're driving past...

• Rothley Crack (VS 5a)

Some amazing rock and climbs at Bowden, just go there, look at the rock and see what takes your fancy.  I second the recommendation of Black and Tan.  (Edit - I also echo MarkAstley's suggestion of Wilfred Prickles).

Barely an inconvenience for many of them.  

If you're heading up the A68 and want to borrow a copy of the Northumberland Climbing Guide I might be able to oblige.

As so many others have said, it pays to be open minded about the grades. I drop at least 3 grades in Northumberland and despite having sniffed out a handful of over -graded extremes, have never managed a true County HVS.

Most of the climbing is unusually strenuous and often,  a fast, confident highball approach is much better than pottering about placing gear. Depends how strong you are, obviously.

But despite endless spankings, the quality of the climbing is outstanding. Bowden Doors is as good as any crag in the UK and Tiger Wall and Lorraine are classics by any standards.

Long time since I climbed in Northumberland but agree with whoever suggested a visit to Sandy Crag.

I also have found memories of a visit to Jack Rock although the only route I can remember by name was Ancient Briton which was very good although I seconded it so can't really comment on the grade (but fairly sure it wasn't E2 in the guidebook at the time  )

 Ancient Briton (E2 5c) used to get HVS when we climbed there in the 70's. Another great route is High Board (HS 4c).

Lost Cause at Back Bowden, well protected (albeit with decent lob potential) boulder problem, then steady to the top (which I think can be protected but is straight forward). It's a memorable route and has brilliant top out holds, unlike The Tube just around the corner (which is also class).

Also, +1 for Sandy Crag, and also Ravensheugh... 

Thanks all. Some good knowledge as ever.

After a bit more thought, will probably stay a few days somewhere around Hexham and a few days by Alnwick.

irt Andy Hardy:

overhanging jams are not for me. I'll marvel at that on the way past and give it a big nope.

irt chris_r:

Yep, well aware I'll need to wind my neck in.

irt DaveHK:

That one's already on the list.

irt wintertree:

Will have a look at those for sure.

Appreciate the kind offer, but I already have the NMC climbing and boudering guides. And the rockfax. And the new Northern Rock wired guide. Hard to choose which to carry to the crag tbh. Might end up with a sizeable library in the rucksack.

irt alan moore:

yep, will be taking pads. I neglected to ask about the bouldering. Looks awesome. I haven't really looked through the guide yet, but need to.

irt Doug (and a few others):

Sandy crag might be a bit of a hike and a bit esoteric for a short visit. Will see how we go. If it was a 2-week trip then I'd be all over it but if we only have a few days it might sadly have to slip off the list.

irt robertmichaellovell:

Thanks, yes! That one's definitely on my list. Is it typical county levels of sandbaggery or do I have a chance? Same question re: First Born…

Ravensheugh will almost certainly get visited.

Sandy crag as said above might not make it into the short time we have. I know I'm limiting it to the honeypots by saying that but I've never been and it'll be a while (if ever) until I get up there again so keen not to miss out on the overplayed, overdone but rightfully popular stuff.

I don't think it's too sandbagged, I've done it (and a while ago) so it can't be too hard. I did fail the first time I tried, but it was 20C with no wind. Climbed First Born more recently.. lots of up and down at the crux but surprised myself by onsighting the crux, you can then get a BD3 cam in the pocket above. I tested that when I fluffed the last (definitely not crux) move – went fine from the ground next go. The gear for the crux on that one is ok, and climbing down to the ground from the move before the crux isn't so bad if you get there and don't find it confidence inspiring.

Thanks!

Thanks for all the pointers.

Been up here for most of a week now. Weather looks like we'll get one more day (hopefully at crag lough), but thought I'd report back with some takeaways now in case this thread gets locked, for the benefit of any other outsider who comes here looking for tips.

Main thing is that it's disgustingly pretty up here. Like, every view is a staggering one. Blown away by the belay positions everywhere.

Storm arwen did some major damage. The forests look like they've been trampled by a giant having a tantrum. It's hard to convey how devastated some places are.

Getting about is super easy. There's no sitting behind logging trucks and caravans for most of every day like in Scotland. The roads here are arrow straight for miles and really quiet.

The mythical sandbaggery that everyone warns you of doesn't seem to be a thing. Maybe I've been on soft stuff (check my logbook if you want) but everything has felt about on the money for the grade. 

Three star classics on famous crags can still be buried under an inch of green scrittly shit. This is the thing that maybe I was most surprised by. The routes, on the short crags especially, can be dirty like you just don't get in the peak. Took the gear for a walk to BBD but left promptly. I know I'll get told to be more adventurous and go get a brush and set to, but tbh there's so much touristy stuff to see that I'm not ashamed to say that we went and did a bit of conventional tourism for the afternoon instead. Presume it's because everyone just boulders there. Which leads on to...

Bring pads. Just bring a ton of pads. There's so much awesome bouldering that I'll probably leave the trad gear at home next time.

I've just had my first visit to Northumberland, only climbed at Kyloe Out and Bowden but would agree with all your points (though I didn't see any dirty 3 star classics).

Really enjoyed the climbing (and Northumberland in general)

Shame nobody said this too you up top. The trad is great (at least the little I bothered to do) but the bouldering is really what Northumberland excels at.

Whoops!  So true

Really?? Had a look across at it today. Might just be me but I'd already declined to try plenty "3*" routes on the grounds of way too green and dirty, so couldn't see it being worth the thrash through the vegetation. It's in a tree. Properly in a tree.

Yeah I sort of knew this beforehand. But wanted a trad trip and it's worked out well this way. The intersection of routes we fancy, routes that are clean, and crags we can be arsed to walk to and hours that aren't too hot to climb is small enough that we've ended up splitting the days into half climbing and half grockling. It's been nice.