UKC

I'm sure there used to be a route of this name at Llanymynech by that name - in fact I'm sure I made an early ascent in the early 70s, but unusually it seems to have disappeared from the historical record! Does anyone else have any recollection of this, or is it all a figment of my imagination?

The very first guidebook I bought was Rock Climbs in the West Midlands (1988). I read it pretty obsessively, in the way teenagers do, and I don't remember that name. Of course I can't list off every route in it, but I'd be surprised if it doesn't even ring a bell if it is on there. So it might have gone into the memory hole pre-88! If I remember I'll have a look when I get home to check. 

It does indeed get a mention in the West Midlands Rock Guide. It is somewhere to the right of Grid Iron Wall but is not fully described and the guide comments that there is no sign of some peg runners that were, presumably, promised in its original pre-guidebook description. 

From 'LLanymynech Crags by Gordan [sic, presumably] Caine & Roger Bennett':

"ODIN'S BEER BARREL RAMBLE - 175 ft.

Hard Very Severe.

First ascent: M. Jones and S. Hogge. 18/10/70. The first pitch of this route was done by G. Caine and D. Wilkinson (17/5/70) and called Shizer."

It appears between Relaxative and Quaker. 3 pitches of 75 ft, 70 ft, 30 ft.

From Llanymynech Crags.

START: The smooth wall to the left of Relaxation (should be Relaxative!) has a more broken and darker coloured lower section. In the centre of this lower wall is a shallow diedre with a borehole in reddish rock at twenty feet. Start below this by a rock step.

(1) 75ft. Climb, with no great difficulty, towards a black slab with a crack in it. From a ledge to the left of the base of this crack (peg runner) step across to the crack and climb it to easier ground. Step right to the arete and climb it to a tree belay. (As for Relaxative).

(2) 70ft. From the belay traverse out left on a spacious but diminishing ledge (peg runner after 30ft) following the general line to an old peg in place in a crack that leads to obvious ledges up on the left. Belay on large ledge.

(3) 30ft. From the left end of the ledge trend towards a shallow groove and follow this to the top with direct aid from a sling on a rounded spike.

FYI - the pitches are given 5b, 5a, 5c in Rock Limbs in the West Midlands.

HVS for that?!! I don't think so! I don't remember using aid, either. Thanks for that, I wonder why it was dropped?

I'd imagine that book cost an arm and a leg