UKC

Portland, routes for the short

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 alx 07 Mar 2009
Hi guys, im heading down to Portland for an extended period of climbing and I am taking my petite girlfriend with me. Indoors she can crimp and happily move off a hold the size of a knats testicle however long reaches and massive rock over's are absolutely stoppers (albeit she usually resorts to dyno'ing).

Do you lot know of some nice reach friendly routes in the upper 6's and lower 7's you can recommend that won't get her completely shut down due to her size!

Cheers

Alex
 Al Evans 08 Mar 2009
In reply to alx: Most sport routes benefit the tall, but not as much as indoors because you can use small intermediate holds besides the pretty red/yellow et al ones.
 matt perks 09 Mar 2009
In reply to alx: At Portland, the ability to pull on a gnat's testicle, should make most 6s and 7s a straightforward proposition. However, in general those with a reach have an appropriate symbol in the Rockfax (not sure if the CC guide has this info) but even these may well be tameable with a bit of technique and inventive use of higher feet. For nearly every complaint on the database about a route being reachy there is another comment from a shorter climber claiming that it's not a problem.
 JDDD 10 Mar 2009
In reply to alx: Get her to read Lynn Hill's autobiography. She has no excuse.
 JTM 10 Mar 2009
In reply to Jon Dittman:

What was it LH (alledgedly) said - "...there's no such thing as a height problem, just a power problem". Or was that someone else?
 Richard Horn 10 Mar 2009
In reply to alx:

I cant think of many massively reach dependant routes on portland, but you might be best heading to Blacknor South/Central on the shell type of rock. There arent many real holds, but nothing really isnt a hold either, so I think you can find something to grip on no matter how tall you are. Some damn fine routes as well!
 JimR 10 Mar 2009
In reply to alx:

"Evening Mistress" is an absolute must for the short of stature!
 Nic 10 Mar 2009
In reply to Richard Horn:

Agree with that - conversely probably avoid The Cuttings, where the nature of the rock is much more binary (if there are degrees of binariness...) and (being limestone) can leave some large gaps between anything usable.
 JDDD 10 Mar 2009
In reply to JTM: Hmmm - not sure. Her philosophy is that since she is smaller and has small hands, she can crank smaller holds and hence work heightest problems in a different manner.
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