UKC

Raeburns Arete

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 malcolm.harris 05 Sep 2017
SMC guide suggests 3rd pitch 40m. Does that mean 80m rope necessary? I've read that although low in the grade, gear placements can be sparse on this route.
 Roberttaylor 05 Sep 2017
In reply to malcolm.harris:

80m rope, minimum.
2
 Mike-W-99 05 Sep 2017
In reply to malcolm.harris:

Why would you think that?

As for the route, open to a bit of variation in places and worth continuing up ne arête if time permits.
 Jim 1003 05 Sep 2017
In reply to malcolm.harris:

You can do it with one rope, don't recall it being badly protected.
 Fiona Reid 05 Sep 2017
In reply to malcolm.harris:

If you needed to abseil and it's a 40m long pitch then you'd need an 80m single rope.

However, I suspect most folks would be climbing mountain routes like Raeburns Arete on two half ropes (usually 50m or longer) and thus if you did need to abseil you'd just tie them together.
 IanMcC 05 Sep 2017
In reply to Fiona Reid:

As Fiona says. Ps it's also jolly good
 Andy Nisbet 06 Sep 2017
In reply to IanMcC:

If you just want to do Raeburn's Arete, then from the top of the route (First Platform), descend down the start of NE Buttress. It can be a bit wet and slippery but anyone climbing Severe should manage it fine. I don't remember it being more than Moderate and maybe not even that.
 Fiona Reid 06 Sep 2017
In reply to malcolm.harris:

Another wee tip is don't start at the crack of dawn like we did as Raeburns Arete doesn't get the sun till about 11am or later and it can be blooming baltic in the morning - one of our group had to remove his rock shoes to try and rub some feeling back into his feet!!!

It's a brilliant route, a few photos here which will hopefully inspire you: http://www.prog99.com/Climbing%20in%20Scotland/2010/Raeburns%20Arete%20-%20...

 Rick Graham 06 Sep 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

IIRC there are a lot of easy options traversing left rather than descending.

Perhaps better to traverse and descend on the easiest line till you hit the slope below the Brenva Face.
 Andy Nisbet 06 Sep 2017
In reply to Rick Graham:

That's what I meant. Sorry I wasn't precise enough.
 Rick Graham 06 Sep 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Same strategy works really well off the top of Minus One in summer.

Tip picked up from Kev Howetts guide.

NE buttress in summer is the best finish to Raeburns IMHO.
Probably the best combo at the grade on the Ben?
 Rick Graham 06 Sep 2017
In reply to Rick Graham:

> IIRC there are a lot of easy options traversing left rather than descending.

> Perhaps better to traverse and descend on the easiest line till you hit the slope below the Brenva Face.

I was not that precise either

I meant " hit the hillside below the Brenva Face "
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