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Recommendations in the Gower

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 maybe_si 18 Feb 2011

Am off to the gower in a few weeks, only been there once or twice before but that was years ago! I think i did scavenger and the hvs nearby, i also rememeber doing an e1 somewhere??

Does anyone have any recommendations for some cracking routes and venues, hvs-e3?

Also, is there any decent bouldering around the area?

cheers

simon
 GDes 18 Feb 2011
In reply to maybe_si: Yellow wall is a brilliant E3. Steep and well protected. GO and do it. The best route I've done there
 MJ 18 Feb 2011
In reply to maybe_si:

Fall Bay Butress: -

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=885

Plenty of 3* routes in your HVS-E3 category.

 mattrm 18 Feb 2011
In reply to maybe_si:

I can second Fall Bay/Lewes Castle, lovely crag. Lots of great routes, Osiris (VS 4c), Isis (HVS), Seth (E1), Lazy Sunday Afternoon (E2). Yellow Wall is also great (not climbed there personally, but lots of people recommend it) and there are plenty of hard routes to go at. If you want some easier stuff Three Cliffs and Pobbles have some nice easy slabby routes. Lots of soloing and bouldering to be done there.
Removed User 18 Feb 2011
In reply to maybe_si:
pennard has plenty of good routes too at the grades your after, esp E2-E3ish around the samuri area. And some bouldering nearby.
Plenty of bouldering on gower, a few details on http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Bouldering_in_G...
 Alun 18 Feb 2011
In reply to maybe_si:
I wrote a list of select gower routes E1-E3 a while ago:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=202876

The only thing I would add is that gower grades (especially E-grades) are generally much stiffer than their pembrokeshire counterparts!

And, back when I was living in Swansea, I started a wiki for gower bouldering

http://gowerbouldering.wetpaint.com/

but unfortunately now I've left nobody seems to have taken control of it.
 Alun 18 Feb 2011
In reply to Alun:

> but unfortunately now I've left nobody seems to have taken control of it.

and now I see why!:

http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Bouldering_in_G...

great effort from the authors, well done
 scott titt 18 Feb 2011
In reply to maybe_si:
Assassin (Juniper Wall) is one of the best HVS routes I have climbed. Worth going there for trhat route alone. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33131
 Alun 18 Feb 2011
In reply to Removed UserTucker:
> pennard has plenty of good routes too at the grades your after, esp E2-E3ish around the samuri area

I once stood underneath Samurai, geared up and ready to go, at a time when I was leading E3 fairly confortably, and couldn't for the life of me see how to get off the ground. Pennard doesn't take prisoners!
 summo 18 Feb 2011
In reply to maybe_si: lots of good stuff on the northside of the penninsula from Rhossili, Adultress was the classic E2 cover shot of the old guidebook.
http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Rhossili

Same carpark at Rhossili as for Fall bay, castle lewes etc..

If you head along the beach there is also shorter routes on the side of prow sticking out over Mewslade Bay, easier access from Pitton, or walkable from campsite.
 Alun 18 Feb 2011
In reply to summo:
> Adultress was the classic E2 cover shot of the old guidebook

Apart from being one of the best routes in the area, it's also that most rare of things - a Gower soft-touch!
 summo 18 Feb 2011
In reply to Alun:
> (In reply to summo)
> [...]
>
> Apart from being one of the best routes in the area, it's also that most rare of things - a Gower soft-touch!

Not quite a one move wonder, but straightforward positive climbing all the way.
Osiris (VS 4c), Isis (HVS), Seth (E1).

yep, guaranteed big smiles.
 probablylost 21 Feb 2011
In reply to Alun: Agreed, that website is a superb resource.
 Alun 21 Feb 2011
In reply to stroppygob:
> Seth (E1).

...going on E3! :O
 MJ 21 Feb 2011
In reply to Alun:

...going on E3! :O

It's a bit of a sandbag isn't it!!!

 MJ 21 Feb 2011
In reply to summo:

"Adultress was the classic E2 cover shot of the old guidebook".

Probably local gossip, but wasn't that picture of the late Rob Parker used in an attempt by SWMC members to get reduced membership at UCR?

 Alun 21 Feb 2011
In reply to MJ:

> It's a bit of a sandbag isn't it!!!

It's certainly harder than the Adultress!
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