UKC

Sorry if this is a forum favourite gripe but I only really do singletrack world and they were no help. Anyway I have ruptured the A2 pulley tendons on my left hand middle finger....bouldering above my grade! Big pop and I've been out of action for over 2 months now. Had a specialist appointment today but he had to cancel and can't reschedule for over 4 weeks. Anyway since the bikeys are no help I guess this is the forum to find out what the realistic chances of me getting back on the wall/crag are any time soon. If I'm honest I've been really slack with the ice treatment as its almost certainly a full rupture (bowstring and all) so I just couldn't see how it would help...here's where I get proved wrong and rush to the freezer.
Let's have your full recovery and its better and stronger than before stories then please.

In reply to Donks: I had a partial rupture of the A2 pulley at the beginning of the year, I taped it up immobilising it for a few weeks, did not use it at all, hard to tie laces up and open doors but you get used to it, I did not do any climbing at all, or anything the could aggravate the injury, I have been testing the finger lately, feels good but will be taping up before I push it, for the foreseeable future. A full rupture would require similar treatment immobilise for a few weeks, no climbing for 3 months min', I could be wrong but found reading "One move too many" to be very helpful,
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/article.aspx?id=4246
this can be a depressing time, so focus on other things to keep climbing fit, yoga etc.

get to a good doctor/physio as soon as possible, the worst case scenario is surgery. and a year out.
good luck

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/a2-pulley-injuries-review...
http://www.allclimbing.com/archive/2009/02/partial-rupture-to-a2-tendon-pul...
http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/finger-tendon-pulley-injury/

In reply to Donks: I pulled one on my middle finger right hand, heard the crack. I could tell immediately it was not good. Had 2 months off and was told to train really steady so as not to de-condition, it hurt for another 2 months then started to feel strong again. So 4 months for me and 18 months later it still aches a bit sometimes. Good luck.

In reply to Donks:
I've just had surgery 2 weeks ago to repair a ruptured A2 pulley. I went straight to A+E after doing it and they had me to the consultant next day. My surgeon is apparently one of best in country for this op. He said that A2 and A4 pulleys need surgery if totally ruptured. (A1 and 3 can sometimes repair themselves.) He said if A2 is left unrepaired it will lead to long term damage or mobility problems. So I would get proper diagnosis and intervention from a specialist ASAP. Good luck with it!

In reply to Donks: I ruptured an a2 pulley on my left hand. Went to casualty - got a splint to keep the finger straight. Unfortunately lost the sprint. The pulley healed alright but the finger is now permanently bent which is great for crimps but a right pain for jamming cracks.

Moral of the story : Get a splint on in immediately and keep it on

In reply to chris wyatt:

It's been mentioned now, but a full rupture will require surgery