UKC

I was flicking through some (superb) old editions of OTE the other day when I came across the report of Ruth Jenkins making history by sending Zeke the Freak (8b, 8b+?) at Rubicon. And it made me wonder what she's been up to since such lofty achievements. She seems to have disppeared somewhat.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

It also struck me how the scene, especially the grit scene, seemed so much more buzzing and alive five plus years ago than it does now.

Although, perhaps that's just me.

In reply to Dom Orsler: A friend of mine said she was/is training to be a stunt women.

In reply to Dom Orsler:I thought the same about Adam Dewhurst when i read some back isues i bought in the lakes.

Tim.

In reply to Timmd: Ruth Jenkins and her partener BRILLIANT climber John Welford, not sound?

Also Tony Mitchell.........

Stu

In reply to Dom Orsler:

It also struck me how the scene, especially the grit scene, seemed so much more buzzing and alive five plus years ago than it does now.


I guess new routes are becoming so hard only the truly committed/insane will comtimplate them + repeats of old hard routes are no longer newsworthy. It was always bound to happen. Look at sport climbing which fizzled out in the early 90's. Now virtually every hard new route will be 9a or harder. Can people be bothered to train for years for one route (and know they may fail) in order to push standards? It seems not as there must be over a dozen awesome lines at Malham that remain unclimbed.

In reply to ST:

Ruth still lives and works in Sheffield. She is married (not to Jon Welford), still does a bit of climbing and occasionally teaches at the Edge (although I am not certain whether she still does this.)

Alan

In reply to Simon1000: From 8a.nu;

"Christian Bindhammer has repeated two 9a's in 4 days. First to fall was Underground at Massone, Arco. The 20m route is essentially made up by three bouldering passages (8A, 7B+, 8A) with rests in between them. Christian fell on the last hard move four times before he finally reached the chain on his 3rd try of the day last Saturday. To be fair this route is by many considered 8c+/9a or even 8c+.
The second 9a to fall was Alberto Gnerro's recently opened Ground zero at Tetto Sarre. Christian had worked the route briefly this summer but had to give up due to bad conditions and form."

That's just it, though! The best climbers these days don't have to train for years for one route, even if it is 9a or harder. Bindhammer probably felt like he put in much less effort for these routes than Ben did on Hubble, and they're harder. Youngsters like Edu Marin (16) and Ramón Julián (20) are regularly onsighting 8a+/8b and sending 8c+ after a few tries.

Grit is just another discipline, but I understand that other factors are involved in determining boundaries than in sport. For example, why hasn't anyone stepped up and done Elder Arete, yet? I'm sure the talent exists out there. Bransby et al seemed to be forging ahead a year ago, or so, but things seem to have gone a bit quiet now.

Perhaps I'm just being impatient...

In reply to Dom Orsler:

Someone give these guys the directions to Malham!

In reply to Simon1000: In saying this, I think you raise a good point. We have a high number of high caliber sport climbers in this country. But how many do we have aiming at 9a and above? Strong Steve? Malc, when he's not bouldering? John Gaskins, also when doing routes?

There is a worrying concentration of very young, very high level sport climbers in Europe and an increasing number in the states, but there doesn't seem to be much going on back in Blighty. I wouldn't be surprised if the UK is left in the dark ages of sport climbing within ten years.