A short update to my thread back in May, asking for advice on Scottish crags and routes, which proved incredibly useful, thank you. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/recommendations_for_scottish_ro... We were going to abandon the idea for this year and set aside a month next April/May, but suddenly we had to return to the UK for another reason this September, and so decided to have a short trip north of the border anyway... A reminder : I was looking for very short approaches, mainly trad routes, and no midges.
The no-midge thing was solved 100% by keeping to the east coast or thereabouts ! No ticks either. I'm hoping next April/May on the west coast might be similar...
We climbed at Latheronwheel, Sarclet, Moy, Pass of Ballater, Polney, Kirriemuir and... err, Trowbarrow! Sarclet provided the longest walk in and slowest walk out! Sarclet and its Pimpernel, and Moy were favourites.
There often seems to be mention of lack of campsites, and of public toilets etc on similar threads... we spent some nights on campsites, but on average these were £30 minimum for a van (Trafic) with two people – was even quoted £53 one time! Compare that with 10€ at a campsite near Saffres, including hot water and showers, on the way back through France... so we found good quiet parking spots – and without fail the locals were friendly and welcoming. And much to our surprise were never too far from public toilets which were, for the most part, clean.
Hoping this might prove useful...
