UKC

Right. You slap a sloper, smear a smear & crimp a crimp but wtf do you do with jugs, monos,gastons and the like?

yours curious

In reply to JessClmbr:

"Bear down, dood" =((((((((

In reply to JessClmbr: Personally I squeeze jugs...

In reply to JessClmbr:

you gaston a gaston

In reply to JessClmbr: please excuse my ignorance but wtf is a gaston? He's a French Alpinist with bad teeth to me.

In reply to JessClmbr:

Hang a jug, poke a mono, sprag a gaston. Try and think of some really funny terms for all these manouvers.

In reply to sutty: No, no, no, no...it's quarks that you sprag.

Pete

In reply to Fiend:

why so glum, chum.

i'll stop posting if it depresses you so.

In reply to JessClmbr:

sloppy slappers...

you could penetrate a mono, or "interfere" with it.

you could also fist a crack, of finger a mon.

I apologise for the sillyness, im bored.

In reply to sutty:
What's a gaston and what's a sprag?

In reply to FedUp:

a gaston means ...well imagine you've got a layaway with your left hand, if you then held this same hold with your right hand instead that thats a gaston i it sort of means to backhand a sidepull. someting to do with a french guy who invented that method for climbing cracks.

In reply to daveP:

This is a slack modern usage. A gaston is in fact a means for opening lift doors: hands together in front of your face and pull them apart. Can also be used for climbing cracks incredibly inefficiently, as Monsieur Rebuffat is alleged to have done. What you describe is just a reverse sidepull, although people often do call it a gaston.

A sprag is opposing your thumb to your fingers, for example if using a small groove-like feature as a handhold, push thumb outwards against one side and pull with fingers on the other. A sort of gaston on a smaller scale. Actually, I don't think I can improve on (I think) Dave Garnett's description: when you fall off Entropy's Jaw at the Roaches Skyline, it's the move you've just f*cked up.

One yards on jugs, surely?

In reply to Skinny Pete:

oh, oh, I think I get this one - it's from a cartoon in High
years ago, where Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, Jonny Dawes and
Simon Nadin were boasting about hard moves.

Yay, I like being able to remember useless facts

I thought you did gaston a gaston though, don't you sprag a
small finger jam? Jugs are obviously "hit" and "hauled"
(unless they're "stroked" or "caressed" - best to get the
right occasion for each!) Maybe mono's are "winced"?

In reply to johncoxmysteriously1:

thats basically what i said - common useage is a backhand sidepull, but came from the crack technique originally. For what its worth i don't think these days anyone using that skill on crack would call it gastoning, more likely to use elavator-doors, especailly as only yanks really climb that kinda sick shit.


only if its big moves.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously1: I think you'll find that you wail...hard on a jug. Yes, i'm sure that's right.

In reply to daveP:

Very different techniques; surely? One is only one hand.

I'm having trouble imagining the width of crack where a true gaston could possibly assist. Any ideas?

Surely if it isn't big moves and you have jugs one just kind of walks up? But I rather liked 'hitting' jugs; perhaps they can be used for more than one purpose.

In reply to JessClmbr:

wtf do you do with jugs



...Do I need to tell you?? ;0)



...you go, "Whomph" whooooaaa yeah, thas one Jamone mutha fkn bomber Jug!!

si

In reply to JessClmbr:

Personally I tend to slide of a sloper, fear a smear, avoid monos and miss all the jugs.

In reply to daveP: i think this elevator door (gaston) move is also known as chicken winging? or am i getting confused from the descriptions?

In reply to tim stubley:

I think so, yes. Chicken winging is what we would call a straight armbar (as opposed to the palms up elbow down variety which the Americans call an armbar).

I think. It's all in John Long's books, and I'm trying to say what he says. Over here you hear what I've called an armbar called a chicken wing.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously1: Ah i see. either way, both moves i have no particular wish to employ personally!

In reply to tim stubley:

I thought 'chicken winging' was when someone is pumping badly and start climbing in bad form - they stop climbing on straight arms and try to get their weight higher in panciky fashion by cranking up with elbows sticking out.

Sure prelude to a fall. Also known as 'Chicken Tonight'

G

In reply to tim stubley:

>Ah i see

Impressive if true, since rereading my post above, it makes no sense at all. I meant to say 'palms down, elbow up'. Your standard armbar, that is (in Longspeak). The other is arm straight into crack, back of upper arm pressing on one side, palm against the other. Chicken wing, in Longspeak. In UKspeak I think the two are reversed. Neither is the same as a gaston which is a two-handed method.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously1: i understod what you mean, couldn't remember if chicken winging was the one armed method you described, or the gaston technique.

gfoz - classic, but perhaps more of a non-official meaning?

In reply to tim stubley:

So what do you do on a 'Leavittation', or is Leavittating' the verb, in which case, what is the hold called, other than an offwidth bastard?

In reply to Niall: i leave levitation to gods, superheroes and yogic flyers, you can decide which category johnny dawes fits into! i thought levitating was reserved for rotes without holds?

In reply to JessClmbr:


As for jugs....I pray for them...

"ogodogodogodogodletthisonebeajugletthisonebeajug....." type of thing.

insert both hands into offwidth in a combination of hand / fist jams aginst each other, pull up until arms are as bent as they are going to get, insert knee, try and get weight onto knee, move hands higher, trying to lose as little skin as possible, and avoid knee sliding downwards.

>what is the hold called, other than an offwidth bastard?
gaping maw?
yawning gash?
etc

In reply to JessClmbr:

Is there a queue?

In reply to totallybored:


He might have something to say about that.

In reply to totallybored: I know how it works, I was just wondering what names there were for the associated crack?
Gash and maw work for me

In reply to JessClmbr:

my favourite such term is 'Rolfing' ie: flapping your hand around deperrately at full reach in search of a hidden positive hold.

So named after the painting style of the famed Aussie impressario

In reply to GFoz:

Hmm, mind if I use it?

In reply to Sarah G:


Too true.

Kipper: Was wondering when someone was gonna spot that.

In reply to Glen: he was renowned for never having discoverd how to jam and reputedly ascended cracks by placing his hands/fingers into the crack and squeezing outward in the manner in which you might try to keep a lift door open.

Theres a good example in terminator 2 when evil T1000 tries to open the lift doors in the mental asylum.

from no-one i'll egg people into doing a hard gaston like this

"go on!! terminate that gaston" in my best arnie accent.