UKC

Staple Edge Quarry (Ruspidge West Quarry)

Hi everyone

Just letting everyone know about some crag restoration at this venue in the middle of the Forest of Dean.  It's in the Symonds Yat guide (2010), and for a while after the publication of that guide it was reasonably popular, thanks mainly to the efforts of Mark Davies and Brian Mullan in unearthing some really interesting climbs (from HS to E3) in the coldest winter in recent memory, with Guy Percival contributing some harder routes.  Unfortunately in the last few years the moss and brambles had almost entirely reclaimed the place, and those who did visit came away unimpressed.  Anyway, over the last month or so various members of the Gloucestershire Mountaineering Club have cleaned up most of the routes, including all the routes on the big slab (from Arthur Pod to The Tiffin Club), The Future, The Horned One and the routes on either side of it, all the routes in the vicinity of Baran and Ice Age, and a few further right including Master Seth's Edge and Paper Clip Slab. 

If anyone fancies a change from the local limestone it's now well worth a visit - it needs traffic.  If anyone has visited recently and swore never to go back (there's a few comments to that effect in the logbooks!) - give it another try!  

Cheers

Rick

Good effort.

Thanks Rick, that's good news.

Thanks Brian, have just sent you an email prompted by this,

Cheers

Rick

Good work all. Hopefully I can drag someone in to try some of the routes there.

Rick,

Many thanks, plus a query;

What state are the in-situ slings at the belays in ?

Hi Fred, on all the routes mentioned the belays/abseil points are either double bolts (on routes that didn't have suitable tree) or we've placed new rope slings with a steel ring or maillon. The one cautionary note I'd add to that is that I replaced the rope on the birch tree above Back, Foot and Crack - and subsequently lowered off it - but my partner then questioned whether the tree was actually alive - I'll check again in a few weeks when the leaves are out, and if it is in fact dead I'll get rid of the tat to avoid misleading people, but until then I'd advise caution. I'm pretty sure you can traverse across to belay bolts on the left. 

An update to the original post is that I've now cleaned Del Fuego, but I would question the E1 5c grade unless you feel very confident of the peg at the crux, because there's nothing to back it up with (doesn't look rusty, but you can't always tell and it does stick out a bit).

Cheers,

Rick 

Sounds like a fantastic effort, definitely happy to be part of the traffic this year. A split day with some Limestone slab action over at Shakemantle is always fun.

Indeed, but don't forget that Shakemantle is currently bird-banned!

Cheers

Rick

Good work. When I first went there in 2010, I remember speaking to you Rick. You thought we were possibly the first climbers outside of the guide book team to go looking for the routes. I would certainly echo all the voices on how worthwhile the crag is. As far as Shakemantle goes, the two routes I climbed there were more than enough for me; Staple Edge was what drew me back for repeat visits to Ruspidge!

Thanks Rick, both for the info and all the hard work.