UKC

Static line thickness

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 Ade Keir 01 Jun 2024

I am looking to get a static rope for top rope soloing, probably with a Lov 3 if I can decide to splash out on one.

Looking for any advice to choose between 10, 10.5 or 11mm rope. Does it run better on the thinner rope or doesn't it make any difference? Obviously 11 mm is beefier and handling isn't a big issue

 arran_deakin 01 Jun 2024
In reply to Ade Keir:

10.5mm is the most common (semi) static rope diameter you can get, I’ve got a 2023 Lov2 and it runs fine on it. I used a Lov3 on a someone’s old 11mm and it didn’t run as smooth as I’d like.

A few things to know about the Lov2/3 before buying - the Lov2 is still available, it now uses the same cam as the Lov3 but is cheaper. The Lovs are big bulky devices, if you use one with a chest harness it will get in the way when trying to get close into the rock on technical vertical climbing. If you use it trailing, just clipped into the belay loop (as I prefer) then, because the handle faces towards you, there is a risk of the handle either getting caught on your trousers, or worse getting caught under a harness leg loop, which then stops the device camming and arresting a fall. I also recommend filling down the back corner of the plastic cam so it can’t accidentally be locked out.

OP Ade Keir 01 Jun 2024
In reply to arran_deakin:

Thank you very much. Will go for a 2 then. I was thinking of backing up with a Microtraxion, not sure how yet

 smbnji 01 Jun 2024
In reply to Ade Keir:

> thinking of backing up with a Microtraxion, not sure how yet

FYI the _nano_ traxion is smaller than a micro and the teeth can't be accidentally locked open

 Rick Graham 01 Jun 2024
In reply to smbnji:

> FYI the _nano_ traxion is smaller than a micro and the teeth can't be accidentally locked open

Had this problem with both mini and micro.

After numerous close calls over the years, now always use two devices either on two ropes or with back up knots.

Never be surprised how all devices can surprise you.  

OP Ade Keir 01 Jun 2024
In reply to Rick Graham:

Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated 

 Dunthemall 02 Jun 2024

I normally put a screamer in the system. Just in case you take a bigger than expected fall onto a static.

8
OP Ade Keir 04 Jun 2024
In reply to Dunthemall:

Where do you put the screamer?

i was thinking on the back up rather than the primary device if I used one

 Dunthemall 11 Jun 2024

Screamer: In the abseil (top) belay system.

2
 john arran 11 Jun 2024
In reply to Dunthemall:

> I normally put a screamer in the system. Just in case you take a bigger than expected fall onto a static.

What we call 'static' ropes are actually 'semi-static' or 'low-stretch, and for exactly this reason. They are elastic, albeit to a much smaller degree than dynamic ropes. Falling on them won't be comfortable but they won't break and you won't either. I've (stupidly!) taken falls of 5-10m onto semi-static rope and nothing of note happened.

 StockportAl 11 Jun 2024
In reply to john arran:

Exactly, EN1891 allows up to 5% elongation with a 150kg test load, and getting on plenty while caving you find out just how stretchy even a couple of percent is while ascending, fun when taking off from a ledge.


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