This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/news/item.html?id=1012
Just thought id put something proper on this site for a change.
Just thought id put something proper on this site for a change.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Did he do it today do ya no,
Cus its really windy down here maybe it was perfect conditions?
Did he do it today do ya no,
Cus its really windy down here maybe it was perfect conditions?
In reply to R Simpson:
Not sure, he nearly did it the other week, but the jug he normally shkes out on was wet, so he just carried on, falling very very close from chain...
The jug must have been dry today!
Not sure, he nearly did it the other week, but the jug he normally shkes out on was wet, so he just carried on, falling very very close from chain...
The jug must have been dry today!
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Adam...How many 9a's at Malham now.......and how many on Yorkshire Limestone?
Mick
Adam...How many 9a's at Malham now.......and how many on Yorkshire Limestone?
Mick
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Top effort by Steve. I think that makes 2 at Malham (if you include Total Eclipse) and Northern Lights, Kilnsey. Is that 6 in the country now then?
Andy F
Andy F
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
One at Malham Mick. One also over at Kilnsey, one down the Peak and one over at Pen Trywn. 3 of the 4 being Steves.
By eck!
One at Malham Mick. One also over at Kilnsey, one down the Peak and one over at Pen Trywn. 3 of the 4 being Steves.
By eck!
In reply to andy farnell: oops - so 3 in Yorkshire then, 2 in the Peak (both at Raven Tor) and 1 in Wales (the Big Bang), but none have been repeated yet to my knowledge.
Andy f
Andy f
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Yikes! Remember the photo's of Mark Leach in The Power of Climber - looked impressive! Re-call txt such as 'Raindogs is cruised then the climbing gets hard'.
bob
Yikes! Remember the photo's of Mark Leach in The Power of Climber - looked impressive! Re-call txt such as 'Raindogs is cruised then the climbing gets hard'.
bob
In reply to R Simpson:
This one
http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?text=Mark+Leach&x=7&y=...
Me
This one
http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?text=Mark+Leach&x=7&y=...
Me
In reply to andy farnell: So there's mutation at Raven Tor whats the other one? The only others I can think of that come close are Hooligan 8c, Hubble 8c+, Bingo,(the Mecca extension)8c, oh and Make it Funky 8c. I like to think that you can include Total Eclipse for this list too, bringing the total to seven.
In reply to andy farnell: IF you include Total Eclipse what kind of bullshit is that ?
In reply to Mick J:
Well if Breach Of The Peace is 7b+ (given 8a), that makes Total Eclipse 8b+ (given 9a). You've got to knock a few off for the "hype" factor.
Perhaps that what he means Micky - boy.
M
Well if Breach Of The Peace is 7b+ (given 8a), that makes Total Eclipse 8b+ (given 9a). You've got to knock a few off for the "hype" factor.
Perhaps that what he means Micky - boy.
M
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
Ooh you boys are so cutting.
Ooh you boys are so cutting.
In reply to R Simpson:
Just thought id put something proper on this site for a change.
Thanks.You`ve really enhanced the forum.
Just thought id put something proper on this site for a change.
Thanks.You`ve really enhanced the forum.
In reply to andy farnell:
It wasn't meant as a derogatory term, just that I belive there has been some doubt about the grade (J. Moffat questioned it after going on it). If John think's it's 9a then I'm not going to argue with him.
Andy F
> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA) Top effort by Steve. I think that makes 2 at Malham (if you include Total Eclipse) and Northern Lights, Kilnsey. Is that 6 in the country now then?
>
> Andy F
>
> Andy F
It wasn't meant as a derogatory term, just that I belive there has been some doubt about the grade (J. Moffat questioned it after going on it). If John think's it's 9a then I'm not going to argue with him.
Andy F
In reply to R Simpson:
Steve did the route on Wednesday evening. He either had to do it on Wednesday or Saturday this week, before heading off to Greenland for a month at the end of next week. Also, he says he was getting a tweaky finger on it, so all in all, it sounds like 'final hour' stuff. Fine effort, especially as Malham doesn't suit him
Oh, and he was celebrating last night with "a pie from Somerfield's"
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Steve did the route on Wednesday evening. He either had to do it on Wednesday or Saturday this week, before heading off to Greenland for a month at the end of next week. Also, he says he was getting a tweaky finger on it, so all in all, it sounds like 'final hour' stuff. Fine effort, especially as Malham doesn't suit him
Oh, and he was celebrating last night with "a pie from Somerfield's"
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
In reply to Graeme: And John Welfords The Bastard - isn't that 8c or 8c+
Does anyone know if anybody has actually done Ben Moons powerband link-up that you see him trying in One Summer?
Does anyone know if anybody has actually done Ben Moons powerband link-up that you see him trying in One Summer?
In reply to Adam Lincoln: is that if you grab the belay chain ? a bit harder if you don't as proved by some frenchie, D Rabatou
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
It's 8a if you reach up and grab the chain!
It's 8a+ to climb it into the crux bulges on Steve's new route.
It's 8a if you reach up and grab the chain!
It's 8a+ to climb it into the crux bulges on Steve's new route.
In reply to R Simpson:
I'm impressed !
So how many 9as has Steve done altogether now ? 3 in this country for sure.
How many other people in the world have such an impressive tally ? about a dozen ? just curious
I'm impressed !
So how many 9as has Steve done altogether now ? 3 in this country for sure.
How many other people in the world have such an impressive tally ? about a dozen ? just curious
In reply to GrahamD: Check the records/scorecards at www.8a.nu
In reply to Carnage:
Probably my inability to use the site, but I couldn't find him anywhere on their 'rankings'
Probably my inability to use the site, but I couldn't find him anywhere on their 'rankings'
In reply to R Simpson: Did he do it with a top rope from the top of raindogs then lead from there ? Also has he called it something else, ie like Sharma's route Realisation
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Most of 'em are listed on the 9a/8c+ route list.
> (In reply to Carnage)
>
> Davey G doesnt even put his 9a's on...
>
> Davey G doesnt even put his 9a's on...
Most of 'em are listed on the 9a/8c+ route list.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: When I was watching the other week he was top roping dogs then leading from the chain. Not that he has a problem climbing rain dogs he makes it look like a diff but its only right to do the whole lot. Its like a complete new route now. The way it should have been done in the first place.
In reply to Davey p:
If Steve toproped Raindogs and then led through from the belay then so what? I'm sure he is more than capable of down-climbing the route, just like Ian Vickers has done, which would mean he is well within his rights to leave the bolts pre-clipped. It would save a lot of energy for him.
Also, what do you mean this is how the route should have been done originally? Are you saying the Raindogs chain should never have been put in and we would never have enjoyed one of the best 8a's in the country for the last 15 years???
If Steve toproped Raindogs and then led through from the belay then so what? I'm sure he is more than capable of down-climbing the route, just like Ian Vickers has done, which would mean he is well within his rights to leave the bolts pre-clipped. It would save a lot of energy for him.
Also, what do you mean this is how the route should have been done originally? Are you saying the Raindogs chain should never have been put in and we would never have enjoyed one of the best 8a's in the country for the last 15 years???
In reply to Ed:
>If Steve toproped Raindogs and then led through from the >belay then so what? I'm sure he is more than capable of >down-climbing the route, just like Ian Vickers has done, >which would mean he is well within his rights to leave >the bolts pre-clipped. It would save a lot of energy for >him.
You mean if he actually did downclimb it the day he did it, I take it? Otherwise this would surely invalidate the ascent for the very reason you give - saves a lot of energy. Or am I just way out of date thinking you gotta lead a route to be able to claim it?
>If Steve toproped Raindogs and then led through from the >belay then so what? I'm sure he is more than capable of >down-climbing the route, just like Ian Vickers has done, >which would mean he is well within his rights to leave >the bolts pre-clipped. It would save a lot of energy for >him.
You mean if he actually did downclimb it the day he did it, I take it? Otherwise this would surely invalidate the ascent for the very reason you give - saves a lot of energy. Or am I just way out of date thinking you gotta lead a route to be able to claim it?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Don't matter what day dude - if you downclimb it once then you've earned the right to leave pre-clipped!!
Don't matter what day dude - if you downclimb it once then you've earned the right to leave pre-clipped!!
In reply to Ed:
Surely if someone has the fifth/sixth bolt pre-clipped because they've downclimed from that point, and it is a new route, it just leaves it open for a stylistically better ascent........as well as being probably harder.
I'm sure they would report such shenaningens.
M
Surely if someone has the fifth/sixth bolt pre-clipped because they've downclimed from that point, and it is a new route, it just leaves it open for a stylistically better ascent........as well as being probably harder.
I'm sure they would report such shenaningens.
M
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
On Malham Lower Wall people used to do this all the time. Can't remember the exact terminology but if you had the second bolt pre-clipped it was known as a Preston Redpoint I think.
There were other names as well.
It's a technique used to make a redpoint easier.
M
> (In reply to Ed)
>
> Not in my book, I must say. Is this normal? Any sports ethics experts out there?
>
> Not in my book, I must say. Is this normal? Any sports ethics experts out there?
On Malham Lower Wall people used to do this all the time. Can't remember the exact terminology but if you had the second bolt pre-clipped it was known as a Preston Redpoint I think.
There were other names as well.
It's a technique used to make a redpoint easier.
M
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
>It's a technique used to make a redpoint easier.
Well, I can see that. Redpointers cheat only themselves, after all (if anyone, indeed). But an FA?
>It's a technique used to make a redpoint easier.
Well, I can see that. Redpointers cheat only themselves, after all (if anyone, indeed). But an FA?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
What about Ian Vicker's ascent of Unjustified 8c at Malham 3 years ago with all of Something Stupid's (7b) 4 bolts plus the belay and 2 more in the bulges above preclipped before the eventual redpoint?? (7 in total?)
He had successfully done the downclimb days previously prior to the redpoint (I was there that day on New Dawn when he did it).
By the way, a plea to all you armchair redpointers out there. Stop nitpicking about semantics and get out there and climb!
What about Ian Vicker's ascent of Unjustified 8c at Malham 3 years ago with all of Something Stupid's (7b) 4 bolts plus the belay and 2 more in the bulges above preclipped before the eventual redpoint?? (7 in total?)
He had successfully done the downclimb days previously prior to the redpoint (I was there that day on New Dawn when he did it).
By the way, a plea to all you armchair redpointers out there. Stop nitpicking about semantics and get out there and climb!
In reply to Ed:
The bloody cheat.
Well he is from Darwen.
What a flawed ascent! How terrible.
Can't write more I'm off climbing.
Mick
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> What about Ian Vicker's ascent of Unjustified 8c at Malham 3 years ago with all of Something Stupid's (7b) 4 bolts plus the belay and 2 more in the bulges above preclipped before the eventual redpoint?? (7 in total?)
>
>
> What about Ian Vicker's ascent of Unjustified 8c at Malham 3 years ago with all of Something Stupid's (7b) 4 bolts plus the belay and 2 more in the bulges above preclipped before the eventual redpoint?? (7 in total?)
>
The bloody cheat.
Well he is from Darwen.
What a flawed ascent! How terrible.
Can't write more I'm off climbing.
Mick
just so you guys know, I had the second bolt clipped when I led the extension as loads of people do on raindogs, not the raindogs belay, that would be taking the piss!
In reply to ste mac:Good effort, got enought now for the 'my favourite 9a's' in ote.
In reply to Yorkspud: Notice that in the second news item on this story, supposedly Stefan Glowacz blew the onsight of Raindogs by not grabbing the chain; must admit, I'd always thought it was Didier Raboutou. Must be going senile.
In reply to Peter Walker: I thought it was Raboutou too, maybe Glowacz had the same problem.
Can't say I've always avoided grabbing the chain especially if there are no jugs around.
Can't say I've always avoided grabbing the chain especially if there are no jugs around.
In reply to R Simpson:
WHEN ONE NEWS ITEM JUST ISN'T ENOUGH.
I like the way they're both in world news too....and that the second item is much less informative...
WHEN ONE NEWS ITEM JUST ISN'T ENOUGH.
I like the way they're both in world news too....and that the second item is much less informative...
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Loading Notifications...