In reply to AMac:
Your account of one night in Cham sums up the mad folly of those times!
I met Arnie in Stoney in the winter of '74. He'd got (or was getting) the just published Hard Rock for his Christmas present. He was ecstatic!
I can't remember seeing him again until about 1980 when, with Mick Fowler, he was taking some big fliers off the attempted first ascent of Pinkingsane at Avon.
As you say, 'what an incredible guy he was... and could have been.'
Mick