UKC

the mau mau v's london wall

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 mark s 21 Jun 2004
any one done both?
is london wall much harder/easier than the mau mau
 Al Evans 21 Jun 2004
In reply to mark s: This is one for Geraldine, she has done both of them more times than anyone else in the country.
OP mark s 21 Jun 2004
In reply to Al Evans: we did mau mau yesterday thought it was one of the best routes we had ever done,not too hard either.we fancy a crack at london wall soon but wondered how they compare
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 21 Jun 2004
In reply to mark s:
London Wall is two full grades harder - and I know what grade they both get!

Chris
griffer 22 Jun 2004
In reply to mark s: given up on the white stuff then?
Mike Raine 22 Jun 2004
In reply to mark s:

I agree with Chris. London Wall two grades harder
 Mark Lloyd 22 Jun 2004
In reply to mark s: What did you reckon to Ride the Wild surf ?
Poetry Pink was a corker, glad I was only seconding.
 Al Evans 22 Jun 2004
In reply to Chris Craggs: I suspect with no authority, that London Wall is a lot harder than the Mau Mau. I'll try and get Geraldine to answer this.
Herman Gelmet 22 Jun 2004
In reply to Mark Lloyd: Get back to work Lloydy, layabout git
OP mark s 22 Jun 2004
In reply to Mark Lloyd: brill,going back in a few more weeks after a bit more of the white stuff.

thanks chris will give it a go then.
 Mark Lloyd 23 Jun 2004
In reply to Herman Gelmet: I suppose this is research for your dissertation ? Bloody students.
Or is it jizzy rascal himself, Dan the acapuncture man.
Geraldine Taylor 24 Jun 2004
In reply to Al Evans: Yer London Wall is much harder than the Mau Mau. Gear is excellent in both. Two of my favourite routes which I have done several times.London Wall has a powerful start and a thin finish where it is normally hard to stop and put gear in.
Yorkspud 24 Jun 2004
In reply to mark s:

I think the grades indicate the difference? MM v low end E4 LW high E5.
richard bradley @ work 24 Jun 2004
In reply to Yorkspud: Where is MM?
 Bob 24 Jun 2004
In reply to richard bradley @ work:

Llanberis slate

B
Yorkspud 24 Jun 2004
In reply to richard bradley @ work:

Sorry, that should have read TMM
richard bradley @ work 24 Jun 2004
In reply to Yorkspud: I wasn't being facetious!
Yorkspud 24 Jun 2004
In reply to richard bradley @ work:

Sorry - where is The Mau Mau in the quarries you mean? Umm 2 levels up from Rainbow just round the corner from German Schoolgirl I seem to remember. Finger jamming on glass but loads of gear and not that long.
darkinbad 24 Jun 2004
In reply to Geraldine Taylor:
> ... London Wall has a powerful start and a thin finish where it is normally hard to stop and put gear in.

I've twice held the ropes on LW for friends who were halfway decent sport climbers (both had done a few 8a's). One failed on the start and the other decided he wanted more gear about two moves from the top and pumped out putting it in.

On the other hand, if your fingers fit, you make good use of the rest and you are happy to push for the top above bomber gear, then you have every chance of success.

Judging from his profile, Mark S has ability to spare and it's high time he rounded out his climbing CV with classic testpieces like this.
 John2 24 Jun 2004
In reply to darkinbad: 'if your fingers fit'

Someone recently told me that both Ron Fawcett and Ben Moon had never managed a clean lead because their fingers were too large.

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