Well, you won’t be doing much on-sighting at Kaly at the moment; there’s so many people on the routes this autumn, you’re bound to have gathered some beta whilst in the queue. However, here’s my own favourite 30 or so 7a routes with some clues as to whether they are onsight-able and also which might be quieter. Don’t read on if you are a real purist.
At Kastri, you might get a bit of peace so after you’ve done the delightful Principessa Guilia (6c+), you might give the adjacent Majestic (7a+) a go because if you finish at the Principessa lower-off, it’s ‘only’ 7a yet still very worthwhile.
If you can cope with the walk to Sikati, then you can terrify yourself on Lolita (7a)… not technically hard, and with a bolt every time you really need it; just don’t make ANY mistakes on the in-betweeny section. Whilst on the east of the island, you could also try Flipper (7a) at Palionissos Red Wall which is rather neat even though it’s neighbours are a bit snappy. And just over the ridge, there’s Secret Garden: if you pretend you’ve not got the Sept 2013 update, you can get yourself an easy 7a tick between the twin tufas of Ricounet (now downgrade to 6c+, sush!). Whilst you’re there, climb Melodrama (6c+) which feels likes it’s going to be 7a but isn’t.
Back in the west, there’ll be a big gaggle of scooters below Ghost Kitchen. You might get a quick slot though for Le Mythe de la Caverne (easy 7a), a route which gives you time to think before the hard sections. The other 7a routes here, Thimari and Ioli, may well have queues.
It’ll probably be much quieter up at Galatiani (most climbers don’t seem to like a 40 minute approach) but K44, though short, is very pleasant. Much more spooky is Feurdon (because 7a routes just don’t cross routes of that size!) but, if you can get on to the roof, just ‘believe’ and you’ll be OK. Honest.
Arhi is currently competing with Ghost Kitchen for scooter parking, and there’s certain to be someone on the short but classic Kastor (easy 7a). I would say that if you’re wall-trained somewhere steep like Leeds Wall you’ll blast it… but I have heard that something has come off this recently and I’ve not been to see for myself yet. If you’re short, also try Mofeta – your lack of reach will top up the guidebook grade from 6c+ to 7a quite easily. At nearby Arginonta, Red Sea Secrets (7a) is the best of the grade there although I have seen a short person reverse this headfirst because they couldn’t reach the crucial clip.
If it’s a hot day, take the afternoon shadows to Magoulia’s Wall and tick Toni quickly before it’s downgraded to 6c+. Nice route but with only one hard, well-protected move… a good first 7a for the boulderer. However if you CAN climb in the full sun, get some quiet up at North Cape where Funatiker is well worth the walk. I know the guidebook says 7a+ but as long as you can sort out the low crux, the rest is a certain on-sight. (PS be careful of some of the other routes at North Cape, there may still be a few routes with the ‘suspect’ bolts.. check careful on the new routes supplement on climbkalymnos.com where they are highlighted).
Odyssey has surprisingly few 7a routes. Again, unless you’ve been on those steep indoor walls, Calypso will be worth more than the guidebook grade: those falling from the last move tend to shout “7a”. Ditto it’s neighbour Dionysis.
It’s a bit like mountaineering to get there, but do try the very characterful Biloute (7a) at Olympic Wall. But if the walk is too much, divert rightwards to Iliada for the very worthwhile Nestoras (7a). If you’re feeling twitchy about this, shut your eyes whilst someone goes up first and puts on a few long clips. Don’t try Calliope at Muses though, not if you’re after on-sights!
Up high at Jurassic, there’s not much at 7a. I would though recommend to you Pegasus (6c+/7a) which would have an enormous queue if it was at one of the lower crags (and it’s far better than nearby Nike at a similar grade).
At Spartacus, many of the routes are getting battered so try and give this crag a rest (…it came equipped with bad music the other week, never mind the polish). If you do go, I wouldn’t blame you for being tempted by the old classic Kerveros (7a) though it would be better for the rock if you didn’t. Ditto, DNA (7a) round at Grand Grotta. Despite its new (repositioned )bolts, it still could be anywhere between 6c+ and 7a+; anyway you won’t get on it until November as there’s a queue all the way down to the Philoxenia Hotel.
Trella (7a) also in the Grande Grotta is just huge; don’t blow the onsight by using quickdraws that are too short… I nearly did and the drag made me feel like 200 kilos. Nearby Cigarillo is also a good 7a especially if you like the full rounded tufa experience. The other end of Panorama is a different kettle of fish with superb routes like Steinpilz and Chnosi Family (both 7a) offering very long, less steep but more technical and varied climbing.
Travelling along the escarpment to the right, the big orange wall of Kalydna has the rather old school Ixion (7a) which reminds me somehow of British limestone: I’d much rather go on Nickel, just right which, although given 7a+, is longer but no more technical. Give it a go; fabulous climbing, but no escaping left at the top… ignore the cheat’s chalk!
Iannis stays in the shadow ‘til late (one of the few Kaly crags where you can have a lie-in!). Unfortunately Attitude (7a) is getting a bit polished and, anyway, it’s quite tricky to on-sight… give it a go on a cool day with low humidity. More delectable is the very very long Sens Unique which is better suited to the onsight as long as you don’t run out of imaginative solutions. And if you like the style, try its neighbor Verikoko (7a+) which actually isn’t that much harder.
Near to the village, on Zeus, Mad Dad and Callisto are very worthwhile (at 6c+) though, it you are short, you deserve 7a for the Callisto crux.
Finally, if you take the boat trip to Telendos, you might give Kyprios Angel (7a in the guidebook) a try at Irox. Be pleasantly surprised if you on-sight this, as most people seem to think 7a+ is nearer the mark. If you blow it, make sure you do its neighbour, Helvetx (6c+) as the positions are just as good.
