UKC

Like the title says, traveling from Southern Oregon with my family to Ilkley 25/6-7/7, I'm going to pack as little gear as possible to solo TR some climbs like Milky Way, what cam sizes should I prioritize and how much webbing/static is needed for top anchors.  I might be able to borrow some gear from a friend in the UK as well, but any beta would be very helpful.  Or even better, anyone want to climb?

Thanks in advance!

In reply to Jonathan Rhoderick:

if the weather doesn't improve - a wetsuit 

In reply to Jonathan Rhoderick:

What draws you to Milky Way?

10-15m of sacrificial static and nothing bigger than fist sized gear will allow you to easily set up top ropes on 99% of grit routes.

jk

In reply to Jonathan Rhoderick:

What's the minimum number of glass bottles would you be happy tying off as your anchor? 

In reply to Jonathan Rhoderick:

Hi,

I've TR soled Milky Way a few times. There are 2 convenient sling placements on top of the cow. Large thick nylon ones are good. And a piece of static rope to create a master point off the slings. A couple of rope protectors are worthwhile too, for the abseil rope.

I found it hard to stop the rope slipping into the initial crack if you abseil straight off, so I abseiled off to the left (as you face the crag), down the slope. You can't work the final crack this way, but I' finding the thin cracks at the start, and the roof, enough to worry about for now.

You'll need a selection of cams to keep the rope in line, down vertical crack, and then through the roof below. Sizes between a #2 and #0.4 Camelot I think. It's been a while since I tried it. Below the roof there's some in situ gear so you don't need much, maybe the odd small wire. And a red Totem Basic is the only piece I have that sticks in one of the pockets in the narrow vertical crack in the middle of the wall. But I wouldn't say that's essential.

For grit it's a good route to get on in the summer. I'm a bit tied up with things at home atm, so I'm not sure I'll be able to able to join you. Feel free to get in touch though, if you don't have any other offers. Or to ask any more questions.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Cheers for such a constructive post for a US visitor.

In reply to jkarran:

What draws me to Milky Way: seems like the proudest line up the Cow that seems attainable. Also Wellington crack looked incredible last time I was there. My grandparents lived in Ilkley and I used to walk up to the cow and calf often before I knew what climbing was. 

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Awesome info, thank you so much!

In reply to Jonathan Rhoderick:

You might be able to take in a cricket match or two!

Rope tarps or similar to keep the sand at the bottom of the Cow off the rope(s).

In reply to Jonathan Rhoderick:

small to medium, such as BD Camalots 0.3 to 2. A few larger sizes can be handy as well. For top anchors, about 20-30 feet of static webbing or cord should be sufficient. This allows flexibility for setting up various anchors. Make sure to bring enough slings and quickdraws.

In reply to Jonathan Rhoderick:

I'll be around, live very nearby Ilkley and have been working on Milky Way on and off for a while, have got good beta and would love to join! Give me a shout when you're around! I'll most likely already be dangle crusading it when you get here.