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Tyroleans for Dummies

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 smbnji 22 Sep 2023

Anyone able to offer some insight into how you'd correctly rig the Tyrolean on: Clocher-Clochetons Traverse (AD 5a)

> A ledge on the second Clochetons is 5m away and also has an iron spike. Lasso this (the debate rages about whether an underarm or overarm technique is better for this manoeuvre!) and make a tyrolean across to the second Clocheton

I'm _guessing_ something like:

  • Lasso the spike
  • Join the rope in a tightish loop with a screw gate and two fig eights on the bight around both spikes
  • Attach your belay loop to the the loop with a screw gate (and/or a prusik?) 
  • Be belayed across
  • Repeat for second
  • Pull one strand of the loop to rotate the screw gate/fig eights to the other side
  • Dismantle

Keen to hear the "proper" way! Cheers

 joeramsay 23 Sep 2023
In reply to smbnji:

You'll find it hard to get the rope tight enough with two fig-8s - it will sag more than you think! I think when I did it I had an 8 on one end, clipped a crab to that and then a munter hitch on the other, which we pulled really tight then tied off (a la https://www.animatedknots.com/munter-mule-combination-hitch-knot). Others used a prusik to get it really tight, like the anchor on a crevasse rescue, then tied it off. We had fun trying out different things the night before in the campsite. Hope you enjoy the route 

 john arran 23 Sep 2023
In reply to smbnji:

I've no knowledge of the route but if the lasso is quite easy to do you might consider adding a second (or even a third!) loop. You'll lose a little less tension to knot tightening but the big difference would be in halving the load - and therefore the stretch - during the tyrolean.

No idea if there's a reason why it wouln't be effective on that particular route, but worth keeping in mind maybe.

 Rhaegalex 23 Sep 2023
In reply to smbnji:

If make the Tyrolean one continuous loop, you don't have to set it up twice, just spin it round after the first person goes across.

Tie a tied off munter hitch to a carabiner, which then goes to the guide mode hole of an ATC. Then the other end of the rope goes into the ATC to tension the system. You won't need to set up a pulley system to get it super tight. Then at the end, just release the munter to detention it.

I went across with a quickdraw on each line, then a longer lanyard with a locker as a backup. We also belayed eachother with the loose end of the rope.

1
 Rich W Parker 23 Sep 2023
In reply to smbnji:

Lasso the ring, fix one end of the rope, tension the other, the result will be a sort of U shape, albeit narrow. 

 JIMBO 24 Sep 2023
In reply to smbnji:

As others have said, lasso and tension (various methods). However, before the last person crosses, re-rig on the far side so that you can pull the rope across (once you are all on the far side), without leaving it all behind.

 Patrick Surguy 24 Sep 2023
In reply to smbnji:

Did the route a while ago, used very similar system to what is being suggested here.

Threw the rope over both of the spikes on the other (far) side. There are 2 massive P shaped bolts on the side you're on. Attach the rope to one of these (fig 8). Clip a tensioning device (guide mode belay plate or a grigri) to the other with the other end of the rope in it so it forms a big n shape across the gap. Tension this (no need to go overboard, it's a very short gap, a z-drag 3:1 is fiiine). Get yourself clipped into both strands (keeps you higher), pull across. Get your mate to drop the tension out, and spin the whole system so it's tensioned on the far side. Get your mate across, undo and go! 

It's an ace route, enjoy! I've got pics of our setup somewhere, shoot me a message if it ain't clear and you want to see them

 gravy 24 Sep 2023
In reply to smbnji:

Having done this several times...

The biggest challenge is throwing the rope over (a bight obviously).  If you don't hook one of the big "T"s after a few times resort to throwing a massive bunch of loose coils over - something will get them.

NB: absolutely make sure someone holds on to one end of the rope before you throw - you don't want to drop the rope! I tie it to one of the big rings first.

Once you've lassoed a T (preferable a single loop over both but don't worry) pass a bight from one end of the rope  (coming from the other side) through both rings.  Tie a figure 8, add a carabiner, tie a figure 8 on the other strand (from the far side) such that the rope has as little slack as possible and complete the loop with the carabiner. 

Don't fret about making it super tight, just make it tight.  Too tight will be a pain in the arse.  No need for any special tightening action.

If you are lucky and you got a single loop over both Ts you can now position the knots sensibly - you want them (as you look over) just past the right ring (this is so they do not get in your way and you can manoeuvre them to the other side once you are over.

If you aren't lucky and there is a mess snagging the Ts meaning the complete loop can't be moved don't worry - the first one over can fix this before the last comes over (again do not drop the rope while doing this).

Take a lanyard (sling and screwgate), connect yourself to one of the sides, have another lanyard ready to connect across to the other strand (being connected to both helps reduce the sag). Lower over the edge and then connect the second strand (you can be connected both sides before you go but it's difficult not to get tangled). Clip on to the second strand, drag yourself across, climb up the other side, try not to get tangled, secure yourself before you relax.

Sort out the ropes if required.  Your compardres join you. Drag the knot over to your side remove the knots, pull the rope over and you're good to go.  Throughout the process make sure you and you partners are secured - all that rope being dragged around makes it easy to get caught and trip.

It's best to leave one end of the rope long enough to belay you and your partner over.

Enjoy, it's a great route.  I've never placed any of my own gear on it - there's enough pegs but a 1/2 rack of nuts and a few small/med cams are useful if it's near your limit. The long abseil can be down in one with a 70m rope and a bit of a sideways (right as you ab) abseil but it's a little tight so knots are a good idea here, otherwise it's a double abseil with the 2nd station 5-10m round to the right (as you look in) on a narrow ledge. The rest are manageable on a 50m rope I think (but I've never tried).

Post edited at 22:15
OP smbnji 25 Sep 2023
In reply to smbnji:

Thanks very much everyone for all the info! Much appreciated 


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