Harpur Hill Lower Tier route confusion

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Great day at Harpur yesterday getting in some mileage on plenty of routes and showing a couple of folk around the quarry for the first time. But when we did some of the routes towards the left end of Lower Tier we got a bit confused about which lines we were doing. Back home looking at Gary Gibson's site, the UKC logbooks and at the app topo I think I can see the confusion.

The relevant section of the logbooks is and of Gary's website I screenshot that section from app below. The routes are mainly recent additions by Mr Gibson, so I presumed Gary's topo is the definitive. Looking between Sport Climbs and the Rockfax topo, Rockfax is missing a line in this section, Gary has 8 lines while Rockfax has only 7. We originally thought that there were two new "mystery" routes right of the ones shown on Rockfax but actually I think there is just one. So the the line completely missing from Rockfax is Bedrock Paradox (5b) (we actually thought it was more like 4 or 4+ and has very friendly bolting compared to elsewhere at HH, so good for newbies). This means the last line shown on Rockfax (claimed as Bedrock Paradox) is actually Anarchy in the UK (5c) (again really friendly bolting and I reckon more like 4+ than 5+).

This would mean all the other routes in that section on Rockfax should be moved 1 route to the right to fit Gary's topo. This makes sense in other ways, the first route we did in that section was what Rockfax marks as Mine Anarchy (5c). I onsighted it but it felt really tenuous and I was pleased not to slip off at a few points. Logbook voting has most people thinking 6a or even 6a+, which makes sense as on Sport Climbs, the topo shows that this line is actually Truculent Anarchist - which Gary gives 6a. The route that Rockfax is calling Truculent Anarchist 6a+ is Anachronism 5+ on Gary's topo. I didn't try that one yesterday (because I thought it would be a tricky 6a+!), but the logbooks suggest people saying it's quite easy, so that makes sense too.

Hope that makes some sense to others who have climbed some of those routes!

In reply to TobyA:

Just to further confuse things, Gary's little printed topo to Harpur Hill from last year agrees with Rockfax, not with his own website!

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 09 May 2022
In reply to TobyA:

I will try and check these out in the coming weeks, thanks for the feedback,


 Mike Stretford 15 May 2022
In reply to TobyA:

Hi Toby, pretty sure it was you I was asking about this yesterday.... you pointed me at the correct line of 'Only Ken's Anarchy will do'. Did the first four routes to the right of the corner, and I would suggest the following (inline with what you say above):

Is Anachronism/Truculent Anarchist? 5c

Mine Anarchy 6a

Only Ken's Anarchy will do 6b+ (agree with the logbook consensus)

Always Break the Rules 5c



In reply to Mike Stretford:

Hi Mike, yep that was me. Nice to meet you. 🙂 

Joe was starting up the first route right of the corner but there was a jackdaw going into the corner crack just at that time so we figured there might be a nest there, so we left that for another day, but interesting you agree with Gary's grade for that, not the Rockfax 6a+. The next route Rockfax says is Mine Anarchy- I agree with you, 6a seems more like it rather than 5c in Rockfax.

Well done on getting up Ken's Anarchy! Sounds like a tough one.

In reply to TobyA:

Hi Toby, in my notes I have noted Truculent Anarchist as 6a, Mine Anarchy as good 6a and Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do as definitely 6b+.

 johncook 15 May 2022
In reply to TobyA:

I believe Gary is doing an update on his site to clear up the confusion in this area. I am sure I heard it will be done over the next few days. No doubt Gary will either correct me if I am wrong or put a note on here if otherwise. H

In reply to TobyA:

And yes, of course this is ridiculously obsessive and trainspottery, but right now it matters to me, dammit!

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