In reply to Christheclimber and Mike:
Thanks for your feedback guys.
When I was there on Saturday, I did the first route in the bay left of where we've been talking about - that Rockfax has as "Is Anachronism" (see https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=387079 ) while oddly the UKC logbooks call it just Anachronism (5c). 5c is about right for that, although I thought I might actually be a touch easier than that - but there or there abouts.
Then it seems like Gary's paper guide and Rockfax may be right, and Gary's website topo wrong - the first route in the bay we are talking about is Truculent Anarchist (6a+) but from what you guys are saying it's more likely to be 6a or even hard 5c than 6a+, as RF currently says.
Then we have (going right) Mine Anarchy (5c) but that's probably 6a rather than 5c - I'd vote for that! Then Only Ken's Anarchy Will Do (6b) but probably 6b+ or even 6c. Next rightwards you have the two 5cs that share the one lower off, and the printed topo and RF agree are Always Break the Rules (5c) and Snap Decision (5c) - I did Snap Decision for the first time on Saturday, and Joe onsighted ABTR (I did it a couple of years ago), and we both thought those grades were right. Then we have route 13 on RF or route 11 on https://www.sportclimbs.uk/peak/buxton/harpur-hill/hh-anarchy-sector/ RF says this is Anarchy in the UK (5c) which Gary's paper guide agrees with. We did this on Saturday and both thought the first third of the route was technical and hard - 6a not 5c. Above the first three bolts it eases up a lot, but the first bit is tricky and tenuous even for 6a.
To the left again there is only one more line on the RF topo, that they think is Bedrock Paradox (5b), but there are two lines of bolts here and both are shown on Gary's topos (printed and web). The lines there aren't quite in the right place on the printed Harpur Hill topo, but they are on Gary's website. I think they are both straightforward - probably 4+ or 5a? They are also the two routes with the very friendly bolting. Gary's website says these two friendly easier routes are Bedrock Paradox and Anarchy in the UK - but then his names and grades for all the other routes seem to be have been shifted 1 leftwards, hence what we think is Truculent Anarchist getting called Anachronism on his web topo.
UKC logbooks and the web topo both mention a mystery route UK Subs (6a). We did wonder if UK Subs is actually the route 13 on RockFax (currently Anarchy in the UK). The 6a fits with what we found climbing that line. Then the two easier lines on right would be Anarchy in the UK and Bedrock Paradox? 5c and 5b seem too hard for what those routes felt like to me, but maybe I was just having a good day - but still the grades fit the "routes on the ground" better than any others. If that was the case, then all the line left from there all seem to have the right-ish grades and descriptions in Rockfax.
Joe also hopes we did UK Subs last weekend because he said when he was a youth, his band was the support act for UK Subs on a couple of occasions - rock and roll synchronicity!
Post edited at 18:48