/ Peak books

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brockles - on 07 May 2018

So me and a friend are off to the Peak District next weekend. We're looking to do some sport and bouldering but hoping to spend the weekend around the same area, preferably with both these activities in close proximity so that we can easily switch between the two throughout the day. Where springs to mind where both these activities can occur and with a range in grades? I have Peak Bouldering and the book i buy regarding sport will depend entirely on your answers, either being Eastern Grit, Western Grit or Peak Limestone.

 

Many thanks

TobyA on 07 May 2018
In reply to brockles:

No sports routes on grit, so really there is no choice. Peak Limestone is partly trad too but of sport climbing also.

Chris Craggs - on 07 May 2018
In reply to brockles:

There is zero sport climbing in Eastern or Western Grit. Peak Limestone covers trad and sport through the whole of the Peak - on Limestone of course.

 

Chris

brockles - on 07 May 2018

Well that definitely narrows down the options!! Peak Limestone it is then. Anywhere in mind that sport and bouldering problems are in close proximity of one another?

Many thanks

Chris Craggs - on 07 May 2018
In reply to brockles:

Rubicon and Raven Tor spring to mind - if you think you are hard enough!

Chris

TobyA on 07 May 2018
In reply to brockles:

> Well that definitely narrows down the options!!

I take it you're pretty new to climbing? Or UK climbing at least?

> Peak Limestone it is then. Anywhere in mind that sport and bouldering problems are in close proximity of one another?

There is a lot of good bouldering on gritstone, and places like Froggatt, Curbar, Gardoms, Baslow are all only about 10 minutes drive from Stoney Middleton (sport and trad) and Horseshoe Quarry (sport). If you have a car none of the places in Peak are that far apart.

 

paul__in_sheffield - on 07 May 2018
In reply to brockles:

The sport climbing in the Peak is a bit pants, but the grit bouldering is sublime so it’s definitely both ends of the spectrum. If you are determined to combine the two, then Stoney would prob suit. Some reasonable sport climbing on garage buttress, then soak in the history and the polish bouldering on Minus Ten wall. 

More sensibly, tick off some routes at Horseshoe, then take a fifteen minute drive to Stanage Plantation, or Burbage. You’ll regret not spending the whole day bouldering though.

if you want the ultimate experience, sack off the Peak and go bouldering at The Roaches ;-)

1
brockles - on 07 May 2018
In reply to TobyA:

New to climbing in the North, from down Dorset way so Portland has all bases covered.

Suppose i'll just get Peak Limestone and see what's what when we get up there

TobyA on 07 May 2018
In reply to brockles:

Just surprised that anyone in the UK didn't know that gritstone isn't bolted!

The Peak isn't really the North, it's really just the midlands with pretensions. ;-)

mrphilipoldham - on 07 May 2018
In reply to TobyA:

That’s not technically true.. New Mills is home to bouldering and bolted grit..

climber34neil - on 07 May 2018
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

More like subslime if it stays hot! I would have to disagree about the sport climbing in the peak, I think it's great, the tor, rubicon, moat, cornice, central buttress, cheedale, stoney, masson, the list goes on and on, add to that bouldering at the tor, Rubicon, beginners wall, stoney ( sort of!) , I can't imagine why anyone goes to kalymnos any more!

climber34neil - on 07 May 2018
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

And then there is long tor, high tor, etc then walk up the road and go bouldering at crag s, the p, the c, 

n-stacey - on 07 May 2018
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

I’d disagree with you on the peak sport venues. Chee Dale for a start Harper Hill, the quarries around Matlock, to name a few.

Your view on sport climbing in the peak may be diminished because you spend a lot of your time at indoor walls (as per your profile).

3
climber34neil - on 07 May 2018
In reply to n-stacey:

I heard that stoney west is better than kalymnos, is that true?

n-stacey - on 07 May 2018
In reply to climber34neil:

Yes, but the Greeks speak better English!!

paul__in_sheffield - on 07 May 2018
In reply to n-stacey:

> Your view on sport climbing in the peak may be diminished because you spend a lot of your time at indoor walls (as per your profile).

Yes, living in the Peak does restrict the amount of time I can spend climbing outside ;-)

TobyA on 08 May 2018
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Aren't the bolts only on the bridge? I climbed there once 18 or 19 years ago! 

mrphilipoldham - on 08 May 2018
In reply to TobyA:

Yes, but it's still grit! A minor technicality is all.

stp - on 06 Jun 2018
In reply to climber34neil:

> I heard that stoney west is better than kalymnos, is that true?

I've climbed at both places and I think Stoney West is somewhat underrated. The big plus point is that for most Brits it's far cheaper and quicker to get to. But it's true Kalymnos does have more routes. They are longer, the rock quality and the climbing is better, the scenery is beautiful and the weather is better. So both places have their pros and cons.


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