UKC

Hi, when I look on the UKC database for Wintour's Leap it shows the R as if it is on the app, is there a new book coming out? 

Well spotted!

We should be releasing it onto Rockfax Digital later this month and it will be included in the new edition of West Country Climbs due out next summer.

Alan

Ah amazing! 

Sounds like you did Wurlitzer correctly but got onto Wurlitzer again when you did Firefly. The second pitches of these routes are completely independent apart from the finishing clean cut crack. 

I think doing Firefly as described in the Lower Wye Valley guide is not how most people will end up doing it.  It says "either make a difficult move up left and mantel onto a narrow ledge, or go directly using a thin crack on the right." Both are problematic, the mantel is onto a rounded ledge with soil/grass encroaching towards the lip. Never tried it but looks desperate. The thin crack involves a similar mantel. I've done the route a few times over the years and we always end up traversing further right again to allow an easier move onto the vegetated ledge and then back left to finish up the final common crack.

But you did the crux of Firefly as far as I can tell ( the left slanting crack with two pegs in it) and in some ways your hybrid is more logical and also combines the best bits of both routes. There are comments in the logbooks to the effect that Firefly loses its way after the crux crack. It's an exciting bit of rock at that end of Fly Wall though. 

Correction to above: I wrongly assumed you did Wurlitzer first and then Firefly! But you get my drift I hope. 

Thanks

I'm confused even more about exactly were I went wrong now as the description for Firefly describes the final peg as being under an overlap which I reached after doing a move up just to the left of a block to stand on the block. I then did a hard rock over move using a crack above which contained a couple of pockets which could match either descriptions. This was the move I did on both routes, I believe there is a photo of someone doing this move in the CC South West select guide. I couldn't see any other blocks/overlaps or pegs to the right but will have to take another look time as I must have gone really wrong coming out of the leftward curving crack on Firefly.

The peg you are describing is definitely at the crux of Wurlitzer. The peg at the overlap on Firefly is no longer there. 

You trended left after the hard left curving crack on Firefly, back onto Wurlitzer. Firefly does a short hand traverse right after the curving crack, then pulls up using holds on a small block and then finger holds on a polished longish "rail" feature. 

For the record there must have been 4 pegs on the second pitch of Firefly at one time. There is a stump clearly visible in the left curving crack after the existing second peg and if you look carefully you can just make out flakes of rust where the peg under the overlap used to be. It's a shame this peg is no longer there, it would really point the way.

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks, will have to do it again sometime, without the other peg I just headed for the other wrong one and sort of made the description fit. The topo being pretty small doesn't help either, at least it was a very high quality outing this way.

No problem, I've just had a look at the topo on page 205 if that is the one you are referring to. It doesn't look quite right to me.  Wurlitzer is shown too close to the (bail out) corner on the left. Firefly is shown bending too much to the left, it goes much closer to the sunlit block that Lord of the Flies is shown going round. 

Anyway, I think we've done that to death now haven't we!

Yes that's the one, and my thoughts too based on your replies. Thanks