/ Burbage south - Parthian shot

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Wft on 22 Oct 2008
anyone know who those folks were trying it today? took a load of big falls and I filmed one, got some average pictures aswel. Sounded American from what I could hear.

p.s one of them finished this climb on headpoint I think, anyone know what it is?


cheers, Guy.

Jus - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to GuyVG:

if they were american then maybe Matt Segal, Alex Honnold and Kevin Jorgeson...
Michael Ryan - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to GuyVG:

Not being a Peakie ... that looks like Balance It Is 7a+ R.
Jus - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

i was just going to say!
Jus - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to GuyVG)
>
> Balance It Is 7a+ R.

lol just doesn't sounds as impressive as E7 6b does it?

Great line though.

Michael Ryan - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Jus:

And people called Adam should stop stalking them. Just let them climb.

Oct 20: New Statesman and Ulysses - Visiting Americans
by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC


http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=10&year=2008#n45389
Wft on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: huh? who's adam?
abarro81 - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
7a+? grit list has it down as 7c, sounds closer to the mark than your -educated or just after a fight? - guess having belayed a friend trying it GU and seen other strong-uns on it...
Jus - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I quite enjoyed the day by day reports on Trotter's progress on Rhapsody.

It's good to know what these lads are up to.

Is there anything that can be done so that when you link a news item you can actually see it without there just being one link for the whole news page?
Michael Ryan - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to abarro81:

wild guess, I bow to your far greater experience ... 7c it is.
Gordon Stainforth - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to GuyVG:

He's probably having a dig at Adam Long.
Wft on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: ah, alright then
Michael Ryan - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to GuyVG)
>
> He's probably having a dig at Adam Long.

Wrong.

Adam Lincoln - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to GuyVG)
>
> He's probably having a dig at Adam Long.

No he was having a dig at me. Mick doesn't like other people posting stuff on the internet (newswise) before him. If they do he just calls them a stalker.

Adam Lincoln - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

And then uses the news anyway....
Gordon Stainforth - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Ah, the plot thickens! But he did rather naughtily refer to 'people' (implied plural) called Adam.
Michael Ryan - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
> [...]
>
> No he was having a dig at me. Mick doesn't like other people posting stuff on the internet (newswise) before him. If they do he just calls them a stalker.

My god that was quick. You following me?

You post away Adam......

thomasadixon - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to GuyVG:

Post the pics up! Took some pretty impressive (if safe looking) falls, didn't they?
Michael Ryan - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
>
> And then uses the news anyway....

As I had to explain to some young lads the other day, a lot younger than you. Go for it, anyone can cruise the net 24/7 and post a link to a blog. Challenge is to put it in context with background information. It takes effort/work. Never presume that you are only talking to those in the know - a minority.

When you start doing that on a regular basis, I'll get worried.

Bulls Crack - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to abarro81:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> 7a+? grit list has it down as 7c, sounds closer to the mark than your -educated or just after a fight? - guess having belayed a friend trying it GU and seen other strong-uns on it...

So the suggested grading 'new' system gets it to a tee huh?
Wft on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to thomasadixon:

I'm posting them now.

Yeah there were plenty of falls, kept seeing them replacing gear every now and then I think when one ripped, all very casual
Adam Lincoln - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> [...]
>
> As I had to explain to some young lads the other day, a lot younger than you. Go for it, anyone can cruise the net 24/7 and post a link to a blog. Challenge is to put it in context with background information. It takes effort/work. Never presume that you are only talking to those in the know - a minority.
>
> When you start doing that on a regular basis, I'll get worried.

That's what you pay Jack to do, so why should i do it for free?

Michael Ryan - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> That's what you pay Jack to do, so why should i do it for free?

The fame, the glory, the association with the top lads and lassies?

That's obvious Adam. Keep up your fine reporting.

Adam Lincoln - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> [...]
>
> The fame, the glory, the association with the top lads and lassies?
>
> That's obvious Adam. Keep up your fine reporting.

You can't have it both ways Mick. I can keep posting up tit bits or i can 'stop stalking' as you put it.... Though it will probably be what suits, as per.
Michael Ryan - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

You keep doing your fine work. I for one appreciate it.

Whole communities make a climbing media, not a handful of individuals. We are all part of the same team.
Neil Foster - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to GuyVG:

Blimy, that looks cracking....

N
Graham Hoey - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to Neil Foster:
Hi Neil,
The runner slot isn't looking too good in that shot. How long do you think it might last with repeated falls?
Graham
kareylarey - on 22 Oct 2008
In reply to GuyVG: Yeah it's the americans, one headpointed balance it is, then made a fast headpoint not long after of simba's pride. I also saw lots of lobs off parthian shot, I don't know whether anyone did it, maybe they were going ground up. Totaly inspiring.
Adam Long - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to kareylarey:

Was that you on Life Assurance Kieran? You should have said hello.

Gordon, I take great exception to being labelled a stalker.

Here's some context for you Mick, the reason for all the falls on Partheon is that its being tried ground-up. So far 4 people have reached the pocket at the end of the crux move, none have held it. Only two are american...
Michael Ryan - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam L:

The other two being Pete Robins and Ben Bransby?

An E9 ground-up, phenomenal!
kareylarey - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam L: Yeah it was. Sorry, I should have. If you fancy going climbing sometime I think you have my number...

Cheers, see you around
Tom Briggs on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam L:
> Here's some context for you Mick, the reason for all the falls on Partheon is that its being tried ground-up. So far 4 people have reached the pocket at the end of the crux move, none have held it. Only two are american...

Cool!!! It was only a matter of time.

To give some more context, many of the falls taken previously by Grieve/Sellers/Bentley were after they had held the pocket. Either the next move (which is the one I fell off), or actually rocking up onto the slab.
Adam Long - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to Tom Briggs:

The current suitors are all a bit shorter than that bunch too. Who fell off the rockover then? That must be pretty close to the ground!
Tom Briggs on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to Adam L:
> (In reply to Tom Briggs)
>
> The current suitors are all a bit shorter than that bunch too. Who fell off the rockover then? That must be pretty close to the ground!

Both Nic and Neil fell off with their foot up and their right arm chicken winging. Not sure about Seb, though I think Hard Grit shows all of his falls?

Plus it's worth mentioning that the move into the flake at the start is extremely height dependent, so shorties (however strong/good they are) are being v bold doing that ground up!!
John Cooke - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Adam L)
>
> The other two being Pete Robins and Ben Bransby?
>
> An E9 ground-up, phenomenal!

Wasn't Bentley's ascent Ground Up? Placing gear on lead as well I believe.

Is this the only Ground Up ascent to date?

Not sure on Nick Sellars ascent whether this was Ground Up also? My memory's hazy on this one.
Jon Read - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to John Cooke:
I'm pretty sure they were both headpoints. Bentley did indeed place gear on lead on each attempt.
Tom Briggs on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to John Cooke:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> Wasn't Bentley's ascent Ground Up? Placing gear on lead as well I believe.
>
> Is this the only Ground Up ascent to date?
>
> Not sure on Nick Sellars ascent whether this was Ground Up also? My memory's hazy on this one.

Neither Nic or Neil did it ground up and I've spoken to both of them about their ascents in detail recently. Both did it placing all the gear on lead.
John Cooke - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to GuyVG:

Brilliant, good to clear that up.
In reply to Tom Briggs:

Tom - did you use side runners for the move up to the flake? Not that it would be a comfy fall anyway...

It's interesting to hear that Nic and Neil both fell from the rockover. It's the rockover I find the crux, and the prospect of a fall from there has put me off leading it. Might have to actually sack up and give it a go this winter...
north country boy - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to midgets of the world unite: the moves up to the flake are much better protected if climbed with the direct start, as Ben Cossey did last year(?) You have bomber cams by your feet which prevent the swing rightwards into the wall....its bold to the gear but IMHO a better way of climbing the route...

I agree with Tom about the move above these cams into the flake (regardless of which start), its HUGE! I suspect anyone below 5"10 would be looking at doing it the way Johnny does on Stone Monkey, i.e leap into higher part of flake (wouldnn't fancy this on lead!)

Its not over after sticking the pocket as Tom will vouch for, the move getting stood up on the slab is sketchy...

Ground up would be a massively significant achievment!

Tom Briggs on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to midgets of the world unite:
> (In reply to Tom Briggs)
>
> Tom - did you use side runners for the move up to the flake? Not that it would be a comfy fall anyway...

I put one No. 5 cam in the crack at the same level as the crimps. I noticed in the photo posted on here, that the guys trying it yesterday have a piece in the flake to the left of the crack. That flake seemed too dodgy (hollow/loose) to me. Both Seb and Nic fell off the move into the flake and said it was okay.

> It's interesting to hear that Nic and Neil both fell from the rockover. It's the rockover I find the crux, and the prospect of a fall from there has put me off leading it.

I found the crux to be the link from getting the pocket to standing up. You can fall off any of those three moves.

Ben Bransby - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to Tom Briggs: Hey Tom,

Good effort on your ascent, all this talk of the rockover being the crux is not doing me any good!

Quick beta question: do you get the 'split' pocket with fingers split (some on the lower right side and some on upper left?) We kinda thought you go for the right bit? I have hit the pocket 3 or 4 times but I am struggling to hang it...

cheers

bb
Reaver2k - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to GuyVG:

Saw some pretty massive falls on Parthian shot aswell, nail biting stuff, didn't watch for too long but when I was looking people were just getting their hands ontop of the slab(?) I think.

Pretty sure I saw you Guy, were you bouldering a little further to the right?
Tom Briggs on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to Ben Bransby:
> Quick beta question: do you get the 'split' pocket with fingers split (some on the lower right side and some on upper left?) We kinda thought you go for the right bit? I have hit the pocket 3 or 4 times but I am struggling to hang it...

I got the split pocket with my middle and index finger in the left side, ring finger in the right. Drag it v open handed. Should suit you I would imagine. Though Ed had a quick go and found it easier to crimp the outside of the pocket. Good effort and good luck! (I think you'll be fine on the rockover BTW)

mrjonathanr on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to GuyVG)
>
> Not being a Peakie ... that looks like Balance It Is 7a+ R.

It is. Nice grade BTW
Oli - on 23 Oct 2008
In reply to mrjonathanr: Get Body Machine done today?
Wft on 24 Oct 2008
In reply to Reaver2k: Don't think so, I was down by the tank, wallowing in self pity watching a very small foreign kid kick my arse

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