My partner and I will have a few weeks off during July/August to climb and I heard these places were good as it’s not too hot?
Our climbing grade is up to 7a and we’re looking for mainly sport climbing.
Has anyone checked out these places before?
Would love any advice!
Ceuse is amazing but will be reasonably busy. Manageable though. Other good stuff nearby including rue des masques, vallouise, orpierre.
Bohuslan looks amazing but is mainly trad
Asturias is superb too, may be quite hot at a lot of the good crags though.
Flatanger is worth considering. As is zillertal in Austria
Ceuse is stunning but busy and probably reasonably limited if your max grade is 7a. Most of the classic 7as there are pretty polished and used as warm ups. And the grading is also pretty stiff (well I found it stiff ;-))
Spent a couple weeks at Bohuslan last year; brilliant crack climbing on great rock with short approaches, but don't remember much (if any) sport climbing - definitely wouldn't even consider it as a sport climbing venue.
Céüse - as others have said, will be hot and busy, and the easier sub 7a routes a bit on the polished side. And the walk-in is gruelling, unless you get up early. Guidebook suggests an hour - we found, even after stashing all our kit up there, pretty optimistic for the steep approach. There are heaps of great sport climbing areas throughout South France - Rockfax guides good to get some ideas of venues Haute Provence, Cote d"Azur or Languedoc-Roussillon are the three that spring to mind.
I always thought the 7a's on pont syr l'infini sector were pretty fair for the grade. Agree there are some tough ones about though. If its really busy, keep on walki ground to the grand face sector. Much quieter, shader, and good at those grades.
Overall I'd say ceuse is unmissable. Even if you just have the odd day there, and combine it with the excellent stuff around Briancon and orpierre
Our Friday Night Video this week is a look at a bright young talent in British sport, trad and competition climbing: Jim Pope. Jim's climbing starts in the Lake District and catches up to his present day visit to Norway to sample some of the hardest...