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Dartmoor Off-widths

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 Petegunn 17 Aug 2025

Apart from 'Bamboozled' at Lustleigh does anyone know of any other offwidth cracks up on the moor? Maybe 'Fist and Buttock Clencher' on Low Man.

I thought someone had done a list but can't find it, thanks.

Bamboozled (E4 6a)

Post edited at 13:41
 Luke90 17 Aug 2025
In reply to Petegunn:

I always question the psychology of those who seek out the suffering of off-width climbing, but hunting for it on Dartmoor granite is another level of masochism again!

This old thread has some info, but the broad conclusion seems to be that there aren't many...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/off_widths_on_dartmoor-628037

OP Petegunn 17 Aug 2025
In reply to Luke90:

Thanks Luke, I don't know whats wrong with me but I do enjoy it!

I first started climbing on Dartmoor over 25 years ago so the scars have long since healed up and faded, time for some more!

 kingholmesy 17 Aug 2025
In reply to Petegunn:

There’s a few in that style in West Penwith if you fancy venturing into Cornwall.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/cornwall_for_masochists-4305

 DamonRoberts 18 Aug 2025
In reply to Petegunn:

There's King Jam (HVS 5b) at Greator and Verdigris Cleft (HVS 4c) at Saddle Tor. They're both on a few tick lists that might fit the bill.

Post edited at 07:19
 toriabobs31 18 Aug 2025
In reply to Petegunn:

King Jam at Greator.

 PilkingtonD 18 Aug 2025
In reply to Petegunn:

Short and sweet with a double kneebar in the middle Blacklist (E1 5b)

OP Petegunn 24 Aug 2025
In reply to DamonRoberts:

Thanks Damon, we had a fab day wriggling up some of these 😃👍


OP Petegunn 24 Aug 2025
In reply to PilkingtonD:

Cheers PilkingtonD for the recommendation, it was great. 😃👍


 Sean Kelly 22:19 Sun
In reply to Petegunn:

Verdigris?

OP Petegunn 23:48 Sun
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Yeah, quite the experience! 🤣

In reply to Petegunn:

Did your belayer really follow those routes in shorts? That would be mightily impressive [other less flattering descriptors are available].

 Sean Kelly 09:11 Mon
In reply to Petegunn:

At least it was dry!

 dmurray 15:04 Mon
In reply to Petegunn:

Great to hear there's another masochist about! 

Sadly the crack at the beginning of Bamboozled can be easily laybacked and the crux is crystal pulling at the top (which is still amazing and you should still get on it! )

I also recommend King Jam and Verdigris Cleft as mentioned earlier, both excellent. 

There's also Monorail (HVS 4c) at Daddy hole but not pure offwidthing

Fist and Buttock Clencher was horribly vegetated but I abbed and cleaned it a few weeks ago and it looks great. It's now had some rain so should be in prime condition! Get on it and let me know how it goes  

Also, me and a mate just did two excellent FAs at Holwell Tor which could be up your street! 

Mossachism (E2 5b) - A ridiculous climb involving double fist stacks, inverts, bat hangs and some mega chicken wing shuffling. I've not climbed a sequence like it in the UK! 

Aam Buuggered (E1 5b) - This is a more awkward chimney shuffle affair without feet to enter a squeeze niche and then some knackering jamming above. My shoulder is still wretched a week later. 

Both totally worthwhile if you're into that kind of thing and currently as clean as they'll ever be! I'd be psyched to hear what others think   

Enjoy, 

Dan

Post edited at 15:05
 dmurray 19:15 Mon

A few pics from Mossachism & Aam Buuggered. 

Also there's Offwidth Aerobics (f6B+) which is a nice boulder problem


OP Petegunn 23:12 Mon
In reply to dmurray:

Cheers for those 👍 'Mossachism' looks mega! - that's definitely going on the list.

 Sam Beaton 09:10 Tue
In reply to Petegunn:

You, sir, are clearly a filthy pervert. I take my hat off to you

 yodadave 13:41 Tue
In reply to dmurray:

+ one for Offwidth aerobics! 

a very worthwhile recent addition and one where feet above your head doesn't feel too bad!


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