UKC

Hello

Hope someone can help. I'm heading to Pembrokeshire end of August. I'll be with some intermediate climbers. Just wondered if anyone knew of any crags that are accessible without either abseiling down or having to rock climb back up. They're good climbers but don't want to take them on anything that committing. If there isn't I'll be happy to just give it a miss. But just thought someone might be able to help.

Dave

In reply to David Robinson:

Stennis head, Newton Head

In reply to David Robinson:
North or South? If south, then Saddle Head Saddle Head might be a good spot. If north, then Porth Clais or Porth y Ffynnon would work.

T.

In reply to David Robinson:

Links for the north Pembroke areas below.

Porthclais Area No match for crag id:68

T.

In reply to David Robinson:

If your friends are happy to abseil to large non tidal platforms then saddle head (good for severe - vs), If they are happy on HVS - E2 then St Govans is better.

If they are not so keen on the abseil then Stennis head, has a short easy (but polished) scramble down and good routes VS - E1.

Saddle head is about a 10 min level walk from a large free car park, the other two are more like 5 mins.

You don't get quality climbing much more accessible.

In reply to David Robinson:

thank you very much for the suggestions, i'll have a look.

In reply to David Robinson:

North Pembroke around St Davids is way more friendly... slabby routes and super soft lower grades often with a scramble approach and with a few crags a short walk from a campsite (about 100m in the case of Porth Clais).

In reply to David Robinson:
The organ pipes in st nons bay are very accessible and suitable for relative beginners/intermediate climbers.

No match for crag id:19447
No match for crag id:19446

In reply to Wood for Trees:


I second that. Stennis head for 'proper' routes or Newton head for some great very easy lines. Not sure why more people don't go to Newton Head to be honest. Great to snatch a bit of uncommitting climbing after the odd shower.

In reply to Offwidth:


None of them are particularly gnarly, but which of them are scrambleable? I've always abbed in to pretty much everything around there, but then I might not have read the guidebook properly...

To be honest, though, my usual recommendation for easily accessible Pembroke climbing at VS and below is to go to Gower instead!

In reply to Offwidth:

quite
I've always found the St Davids sandstone to be just as sociable as anywhere else but with everyone chilling at the top of the cliff rather than the usual bottom. I need to get back soon, not been for a few years and I enjoy it more than Scotland

In reply to davidbeynon:

Organ Pipes are very accessible but rock quality leaves a lot to be desired. Plenty of better options around St Non's Bay, or within 20 minutes walk.

In reply to John R:

I didn't notice any problems with rock quality when I was there. Which bits did you think were dodgy?

In reply to davidbeynon:
Two biggish blocks a and a volley of smaller stones which narrowly missed two of us. Cannot now remember the names of the routes, but I was disappointed as I had recommended it, a bit like yourself, as somewhere friendly and accessible. Mind you, I recommended Rosary to someone else only to find that it had fallen down completely soon after I had done it, so I may have an unfortunate destabilising influence on North Pembroke rock! John.

In reply to John R:

That's worth knowing. I was thinking of taking some people there fairly soon myself.

Thanks.

In reply to davidbeynon:
Yes, I thought so. For what it is worth, the two people with me, who are not generally nervous and have climbed E1 very competently, both declined a return visit last April! What a contrast with the Purple Wall next door- near perfect rock, but certainly harder routes, though still easy of access when the tides are right. John.

In reply to David Robinson:

Crystal slabs area is pretty friendly, though quite a decent walk from the car park.

In reply to David Robinson:

If you don't mind a non committing non tidal abseil you could head for St Govan's head. Once down there is a (very polished) diff/ v diff gully to climb back up if you don't fancy the routes. Stennis Head also has routes you can scramble down to and so does Saddle head.
Enjoy!