UKC

/ Pencarrow Head, SE Cornwall

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Paz - on 13 Jun 2018

Has anyone climbed at Pencarrow Head?  The coasteering photos in the old Cheesewring & SE guide (my second favourite guidebook) look great.  I was wondering how the routes, and P grades compared to modern DWS grades.  Did it get omitted from DWS guide deliberately, with good reason, e.g. because it's a bit too much like Shale?

 

 

Pencarrow Head

Tom Last - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Paz:

Hi Paz.

I'm fairly local to there but haven't climbed there. Was just looking at this in the newish guide the other day as it goes. They're all S0 in there and up to about E1.

It's more than a bit like shale around here - it is shale for the most part! Still, if it's bedded down the right way it can be solid enough, though Mr Carver notes that it's soft.

 

Hope that helps,

Tom

 

PS, there's loads of Cornish DWS not in the DWS guide - that's not a critisism, probably just a space issue, or the DWS was a bit more underdeveloped back then. 

Paz - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Tom Last:

Cheers Tom.  Yeah, the DWS guide's over 10 years old.  Hard to believe it was released in 2007. 

Is there any more info about the other Cornish DWS somewhere?

Tom Last - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Paz:

Yeah right, seemed revolutionary at the time! Surprised at no update yet.

 

Info is very piecemeal. There’s stuff detailed in the Cheesewring guide, in the new Chair Ladder Guide, some stuff here on UKC. Some of them are routes that have been retroed as DWS.

 

AFAIK there’s good new(ish) stuff at Black Head (St Austell), Dodman Point, Lizard, Trewavas Island, Hella Point, Vessacks, Carn Barra, Carn Vellan, Clodgy, Cligga and surrounding area, Boscastle apparently. Be very surprised if there aren’t many more spots out there too. 

 

 

Paz - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to Tom Last:

Nice one!  I feel whoever named the St Austell crag 'Black Head' wasn't really selling it. 

Sounds similar to the deal at Pembroke - there's lots more DWS been done in Range East since Mike's guide, that's now described in the CC guides, and yet more since they came out too.

My friend has just moved to the north coast - one of us would definitely buy beers for info about the Boscastle routes! 

Tom Last - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to Paz:

Funnily enough, my friends went to do this stuff at Boscastle yesterday - it only comes in after a big dry spell apparently. I’d never heard of it before, but I can certainly have a delve for you and find out if it’s common kowledge. I’ll let you know. 

Dogwatch - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to Paz:

> Nice one!  I feel whoever named the St Austell crag 'Black Head' wasn't really selling it. 

It's the name of the place. A headland on the W side of St Austell Bay and yes, in certain lighting, it's kind of black.

Offwidth - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to Dogwatch:

"and yes, in certain lighting, it's kind of black."

At night ?;-)

Dogwatch - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to Offwidth:

Not only. I lived in sight of the place of 10 years.

Paz - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to Dogwatch:

Wooosh!   That's the sound of the joke going over your head.

Paz - on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to Dogwatch:

I wish you eternal happiness and a prosperous life with your perfect skin.

Dogwatch - on 16 Jun 2018
In reply to Paz:

> Wooosh!   That's the sound of the joke going over your head.

No, I remember adolescence.


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