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Research into disordered eating in climbers

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 PilkingtonD 15 Jan 2023

Hello! Not sure if this was the right forum so please let me know if there is a more suitable one! My name is Dom and I’m a student at Plymouth Marjon University in my third year of studying Outdoor Adventure Education. For my dissertation I’m doing research into the prevalence of disordered eating in climbers in the UK, which is currently a very under-researched part of our community.

The survey takes about 3 minutes of your time and can be taken by anyone who climbs in the UK, regardless of eating habits.

If you have time, please complete the additional 2 minute EAT-26 questionnaire before the survey and note your score (more information can be found through the link) here: https://www.eat-26.com/eat-26/

The EAT-26 questionnaire is completely optional, and if you would not like to take it, please proceed straight to the survey link below.

If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask!

Thank you for your time!

https://forms.office.com/e/m2DKs8AiXj

9
 profitofdoom 15 Jan 2023
In reply to PilkingtonD:

I did both

Good luck with your research

OP PilkingtonD 16 Jan 2023
In reply to profitofdoom:

Thank you for taking the time!

 Martin Hore 16 Jan 2023
In reply to PilkingtonD:

Done both.

Why (oh why!) does a supposedly scientific study (the EAT - 26 survey) not accept my weight in kg? I had to go to a conversion table to calculate it in lbs.

Your own survey is nice and simple. One criticism: when asking for my "primary" climbing style (which is trad) it suggests "the style I spend most time on" (which is indoor - but that's just training for trad). So it was tricky for me to answer the question.

Good luck with the dissertation - an interesting topic.

Martin

 climberchristy 16 Jan 2023
In reply to PilkingtonD:

Done both. Good luck with the research. 

 DaveHK 16 Jan 2023
In reply to Martin Hore:

> Done both.

> Why (oh why!) does a supposedly scientific study (the EAT - 26 survey) not accept my weight in kg? 

American/Victorian/Rees-Mogg.

The last two are basically the same.

Post edited at 18:56
In reply to Martin Hore:

> Why (oh why!) does a supposedly scientific study (the EAT - 26 survey) not accept my weight in kg?

It's American.

Not impressed with the negative sense of all but one of those questions; it is more normal to have a mix of positive and negative-weighted questions. Though from the questions, it is pretty clear that all but one asks 'just how bad is your eating disorder?', so maybe subtlety/balance in the questions is unnecessary...

1
 65 16 Jan 2023
In reply to Martin Hore:

> Why (oh why!) does a supposedly scientific study (the EAT - 26 survey) not accept my weight in kg?

I gave up at that point. I could have had a decent stab at stones. I wondered if the survey is either American derived or from 50 years ago?

Edit : done Dom’s survey. Good luck with your research, but I’d advise getting a background survey from another source. In the UK, no one describes or measures their weight in pounds, even if they aren’t anti-imperial radicals like me.

Post edited at 20:27
 Derry 16 Jan 2023
In reply to PilkingtonD:

done both too. 

My EAT-26 was very low so presuming that then relfects in our results -  to the fact that when I'm looking at the lightest gear I own to redpoint a project (marginal gains and all that) it doesn't mean I've got an eating disorder. Just found the survey very short for the fact that I do think about losing weight on gear all the time, but thats mostly to balance my love for cake. 

Good luck with your research.

p.s. I love this time of year when all the surveys come out on UKC. reminds me of my time and Uni researching post-modernistic influences on climbers identity's (yep... don't ask)

Post edited at 21:14
OP PilkingtonD 16 Jan 2023
In reply to Martin Hore:

> Done both.

> Why (oh why!) does a supposedly scientific study (the EAT - 26 survey) not accept my weight in kg? I had to go to a conversion table to calculate it in lbs.

> Your own survey is nice and simple. One criticism: when asking for my "primary" climbing style (which is trad) it suggests "the style I spend most time on" (which is indoor - but that's just training for trad). So it was tricky for me to answer the question.

> Good luck with the dissertation - an interesting topic.

> Martin

Thank you for your feedback Martin, and for taking the time to complete the survey!

I hadn't thought of that distinction between primary style not always necessarily being the what you spend most time on, I'll have to mention that oversight in my writing!

OP PilkingtonD 16 Jan 2023
In reply to captain paranoia:

> > Why (oh why!) does a supposedly scientific study (the EAT - 26 survey) not accept my weight in kg?

> It's American.

> Not impressed with the negative sense of all but one of those questions; it is more normal to have a mix of positive and negative-weighted questions. Though from the questions, it is pretty clear that all but one asks 'just how bad is your eating disorder?', so maybe subtlety/balance in the questions is unnecessary...

Thank you for your feedback! Time was taken to try to make the questions as neutral as possible as we do have to look out for leading questions, and this was the several drafts later version that balanced the neutrality with what type of data we wanted to collect as best as we thought possible, but I will review the issue you've raised when we come to writing up the data.

OP PilkingtonD 16 Jan 2023
In reply to 65:

> I gave up at that point. I could have had a decent stab at stones. I wondered if the survey is either American derived or from 50 years ago?

> Edit : done Dom’s survey. Good luck with your research, but I’d advise getting a background survey from another source. In the UK, no one describes or measures their weight in pounds, even if they aren’t anti-imperial radicals like me.

Unfortunately EAT-26 is the most widely used and accepted screening for disordered eating within academic and medical circles, which just happens to be American!

Thank you for your feedback and taking the time to do the survey!

OP PilkingtonD 16 Jan 2023
In reply to Derry:

> done both too. 

> My EAT-26 was very low so presuming that then relfects in our results -  to the fact that when I'm looking at the lightest gear I own to redpoint a project (marginal gains and all that) it doesn't mean I've got an eating disorder. Just found the survey very short for the fact that I do think about losing weight on gear all the time, but thats mostly to balance my love for cake. 

> Good luck with your research.

> p.s. I love this time of year when all the surveys come out on UKC. reminds me of my time and Uni researching post-modernistic influences on climbers identity's (yep... don't ask)

Yes of course! The gear question was partly to find out whether climbers would consider body weight but not gear weight or vice versa, but going lighter on gear for extra cake is always a worthwhile endeavour!

Thank you for your time!

In reply to PilkingtonD:

> Time was taken to try to make the questions as neutral as possible

Oh, it wasn't your questions, it was the EAT-26 questions.

 Martin Hore 16 Jan 2023
In reply to PilkingtonD:

> Unfortunately EAT-26 is the most widely used and accepted screening for disordered eating within academic and medical circles, which just happens to be American!

It's no criticism of your survey, or your decision to link to EAT-26, but I just don't buy this. If EA-26 is scientifically rigorous and claims academic credibility, American or not, it ought to use the universally accepted SI units. By all means give American responders who lack a scientific education the option to answer in lbs, but don't make lbs the only option for the rest of us.

Martin

2
In reply to Martin Hore:

>  If EA-26 is scientifically rigorous and claims academic credibility, American or not, it ought to use the universally accepted SI units.

It's an American survey, from an American research centre, aimed at non-scientific American eaters. If it used kg, they wouldn't understand.

The target survey audience is not scientists.


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