UKC

True line for Chic VD Clogwyn yr oen

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 gazj1986 03 Aug 2025

Just curious about the true line for Chic VD at Clogwyn yr Oen after bailing last week because of a very wet slab on pitch 2. I followed the line shown in rockfax however it felt a bit spicy for VD. I've been told the true line is 3m left up and easier cracked line, this can be seen clearly from the undercut left of the line on pitch 2 which I looked at then avoided for a steeper line. 


2
 JohnDexter 04 Aug 2025
In reply to gazj1986:

I soloed this on Saturday afternoon; it's dringo bendigedig (wonderful climbing).

From the belay ledge (top of P1), I stepped (climber's) right to the cracked wall. At about 2.5m, I moved left to pick up the flake/crack, and then followed the left-hand side of the slab to the belay at P3. I think this is probably the route that you took.

However, you can go straight up to the flake from the belay or step left as per the guide; both are probably a bit easier climbing in that they're less exposed/steep.

As for the "true line", I'm not sure that it really matters as it's P3 that's the true gem.n

1
 cathsullivan 04 Aug 2025
In reply to gazj1986:

The steep wall that Rockfax and CC guides refer to at the start of p2 feels a bit stiff for VDiff to me, and I've sometimes gone up the crack to the left which is perhaps a bit easier. It seems clear from the wear on the rock that people use both ways up that first bit of p2 and I think the route is at least VDiff whichever way you go there. Last time I did this route I found a hold on the steep wall that I'd not found before, which made it seem a bit easier. I suppose the key is not to treat the lines on the topos as gospel but rather as a general indication of where to go. 

In reply to cathsullivan:

> I suppose the key is not to treat the lines on the topos as gospel but rather as a general indication of where to go.

Amen, Clogwyn yr Oen has lots of "climb anywhere" terrain. Follow your nose.


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