/ Well protected HVS/E1 Accessible from NE Scotland

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Gawyllie - on 05 Sep 2018

Does anyone have suggestions for well protected HVS/E1's within 2 hours drive from Aberdeen?

I've done Double Overhang, Death Cap and Little Centotaph and looking for similar. mountain routes would be great also

Ive had a few at clova recommended to me also, Wander, Wandered and I think Red wall

Thanks in Advance

Dangerous Dave - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to Gawyllie:

Have you got a copy of North East Out Crops and the Cairngorm guide? If you live in Aberdeen its well worth getting those and you will have plenty to go at. HVS/E1 on the coast, along at Ballater and Glen Clova are generally well protected, those that are not will be fairly obvious.


Have a look at my logbook and filter it by grade, I will have done most of the routes at that grade around the area, should give you plenty to go at.

Gawyllie - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to Dangerous Dave:

Thanks Dave. Got both guidebooks

Will check out your logbook

CurlyStevo - on 05 Sep 2018
CurlyStevo - on 05 Sep 2018
Gawyllie - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Cheers Culystevo

Heard of most of them. will give them a closer look

henwardian - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to Gawyllie:

+1 for The Magic Crack, nice route. 

I think I did Black Custard before and found it rather hard, but then I find everything at Pass of Ballater to be desperate really.

Coffin Corner is a classic route, though it is starting to get some polish from its incredible popularity. There is also Squirm and Deaths Head at Upper Cave, Squirm is easy except for a really short technical section that is well protected by pitons, not spectacular quality but fair enough. I remember Deaths Head as well protected but sustained and tricky on the crux section... but it was a long time ago.

How about Lipp Service at RoseHearty.

There is masses and masses of stuff on the Aberdeen Sea Cliffs, I'm afraid I don't remember HVS/E1s specifically but there is quite a variety of rock types and styles of climbing... If you don't know any of the local climbers well enough to pump them for information, try asking on North East Outcrops group on Facebook, it's fairly active and you can get suggestions from folk who live in aberdeen and climb there all the time.

Mountain routes: 

The Needle on Shelterstone.

Goliath, Dubh Loch Monster, probably others on Creag An Dubh Loch.

I remember enjoying some of the easier routes on Creag a'choire Etchachan, I'm sure the HVS/E1s there would be similarly pleasant.

CurlyStevo - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to henwardian:

Not done it but a friend reported this in the pumpy but safe category too Birthday Treat (E1 5a)


Robert Durran - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to Gawyllie:

Newtonhill is good at those grades. A couple just along at Craig Stirling too.

BWoodward on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to Gawyllie:

For well protected E1's/ HVS local to Aberdeen would recommend the following:

Blockbuster - Floor's Craig (One tricky move - HVS?)
Strawclutchers - Meikle Partans
Warlord - Warlord Cliff
Armed Conflict - Findon
Killing Moon - Meackie Point
Tigger / Appapulco / Cheetah - Newtonhill
Mythical Wall -Souter Head
Insect Groove - South Cove

Birthday treat suggested above also a good suggestion

A bit further afield:

The E1's at Logiehead feel quite soft

Red Wall - Clova
Zigzag direct -Clova
Magic Crack - Coire an t-Sneachda




Gawyllie - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to BWoodward:

Thanks all. Plenty for me to have a look

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