/ Wye valley guide is out (new one)

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queenmargo - on 06 Aug 2017
Just a head's up.
Spent last 30 minutes trying to get Wye Valley guide book. From what I've read in the past forums, the 2007 edition with supplement is more than enough, however, the new one has been made available about a week ago.
From what I understand, only available from one place and don't know if linking it would break any advertising rules or anything, but it is easy enough to find through google search.
Called Wye Valley Sport
The Ex-Engineer - on 06 Aug 2017
In reply to queenmargo:
The new guidebook only includes the sport routes most of which are more recently bolted than 2007 and many of which are more recent than even the 2012 Supplement.
So, if you want to climb Sport you'll ideally want the brand new one whereas for any Trad routes you'll still want the 2007 guide (or potentially the CC selected guide - South West Climbs Volume 1 - if you're just a very occasional visitor).
I've climbed recently at both Woodcroft and Wyndcliff Quarries mainly using the UKC logbook entries plus the older guides so it's workable, but I'll be picking up my copy of the new Sport guide this week.
gobbledigook - on 06 Aug 2017
In reply to queenmargo:

Have my copy of the new guide, picked up from Dick's climbing.

I was a bit dubious about the price tag, but I could smell the quality of the information before I turned the first page!

It's a good size, with lots of quality colour pictures, topo's, aerial's and a lot of history and information! No more wandering around the bottom of the crag at wyndcliffe trying to count the bolt lines!!

In fact many people were very jealous of my shiny new guide at the crag today, of course I shared the guidebook love.
The Ivanator - on 06 Aug 2017
In reply to queenmargo:

Also have my copy of the new guide. Pretty impressive, good topos of some hard to photograph (tree shrouded) Wye Valley crags, the amount of new stuff at both Wyndcliff Quarry and Ban-y-Gor is enticing, route descriptions have both character and humour. Weird cover photo choice but lots of good photos within, was kind of hoping that the authors might have secretly bolted and included some hidden mystery crag, but this (admittedly optimistic) hope was dashed. The emoticons for friendliness of the bolting are a good touch.
Fiend - on 07 Aug 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

> Weird cover photo choice

It's bloody awful isn't it. Grim.
paul__in_sheffield - on 07 Aug 2017
In reply to Fiend:

> It's bloody awful isn't it. Grim.

Just looked it up on Dick's Climbing, looks like a bad day at Horseshoe ;-)
davidbeynon on 07 Aug 2017
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

There's another kind?
petegunn on 07 Aug 2017
In reply to Fiend:

Least they got your better right side ; )
The Ivanator - on 07 Aug 2017
In reply to All:

The decision to omit two thirds of the Tintern Quarry climbs and the (hopefully) temporarily restricted Main Cliff Ban-y-Gor routes (listed, but not described or included on any topo) may look odd in a year or two if these access situations change, would rather have had full coverage with clear indication of bans. Possibly there are behind the scenes reasons for these decisions.
The two crags in question are very different situations, Tintern being on the "leave without fuss if asked" list as the current owner is apparently not open to negotiated access; whilst the ban on most of Main Cliff on Ban-y-Gor does need to be rigorously respected as Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust have proved open to access discussions and the situation might change (for better or worse) based on climber conduct.
If you own the 2007 guide, the 2012 supplement and the new Sports guide then the coverage is comprehensive I guess. There are also some additional topos (used in the SW Climbs selective guide) available on the CC website if you want every last morsel of Wye info!
The Ivanator - on 07 Aug 2017
In reply to Fiend:

> Grim.

Grimly Fiendish one might say...
The Ex-Engineer - on 08 Aug 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:
Was just talking about potential omissions with another UKC regular yesterday.

He mentioned the bolted routes on the main slab at Shakemantle Quarry (Ruspidge Slab Quarry) , which would have probably proved an even more popular venue if included, but admittedly they are not that nearby...
Post edited at 10:49

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