UKC

Hi,

My partner and I are travelling to Scotland in a month. From June 26 to July 3 we will be renting a campervan and seeing the country - hiking, seeing cities, hopefully some climbing! We're both beginners at bouldering and are hoping to gain some more experience on this trip. We're from the Netherlands and so far have only climbed indoors, so this would be the first time not climbing/bouldering in a hall. As you can imagine, we're very much looking forward to this trip and to hopefully finally gaining some experience bouldering outdoors, but also have some questions. Hopefully someone here can help us out.

- where would be a good area to start, with relatively easy/accessible routes? We climb at 5A/5B and 6A levels at the moment, but are realising this could be a slightly different game outside of our climbing centre... 
- what would be your advice on getting a crash pad (rent, or should we simply buy one)?
- would it be more advisable to join up with someone more experienced?
- any other tips for first time bouldering outdoors? 

All tips/tricks/advice would be very helpful and very much appreciated, thank you! 

If you stand still in the Highlands for more than 30 seconds at that time of year you are likely to get surrounded by a cloud of midges unless there is a breeze to keep them at bay.

Take a midge net and have a plan B.   Walking and scrambling are fine even when the midges are out because you keep moving.

I'm not sure if you'll find somewhere that will rent a crashpad.   If it's your first time bouldering outside remember that you'll quite often want more than one pad to make it safe.  Climbing in a group is a good way to get enough pads.

Presumably you have the Bouldering in Scotland guide book...?(https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/books/boulder_scotland-389)

Scotland is not a premier bouldering destination but if you search out somewhere like  Torridon Celtic Jumble you’ll get some bouldering done and see some fantastic scenery on the way.

Being prepared for MIDGE is the single most important thing to take away from this thread.

In case you don’t know, the midge is a small biting fly which leaves an itchy bite. One or two bites won’t trouble you but you could easily find yourself in literally a cloud of millions of these beasts leaving hundreds of bites!

The midge problem at that time of year in the Northwest of Scotland, depending on weather conditions and time of day, can range from minor annoyance to unbearable. A midge proof head net is essential. An insect repellent containing DEET is recommended as is clothing to provide full skin cover. Hopefully, you will be lucky and not experience the worst of the midge but it’s best to be prepared just in case it is really bad.

Any West Scotland road trip should include Torridon.

Torridon Celtic Jumble is great with all grades to go at. I found a much easier but worthwhile micro crag up the road  Am Fuar-meheallan which offers some pleasant lower grade additions, generally with good landings.

The midges are worth noting, as they can ruin a day out. Tips I've found over a lifetime visiting Torridon include: wear white or light clothing, black clothes will pull them in like a magnet. They love dark or overcast still days or light rain so consider a day indoors or a travel day if this is the forecast.. Even a gentle breeze can be too much for them and keep them away, and they don't like bright sunshine.  Thinking you can ignore them won't work, they can take you to insanity in a few moments. 

Be aware of ticks also. Changes to sheep grazing practices in Torridon mean more deer and so more ticks. 

However it is a wonderful place and you won't regret adding it to your itinery.

Hi Eveline,

A holiday with a bit of climbing thrown in?

You'll be visiting Edinburgh no doubt. There's really nice low grade bouldering in the South quarry of Salisbury crags which is within walking distance of the city centre. You'll also get lovely views from the top of the crags and even better ones from the top of Arthurs Seat, the hill behind the crags.

If you visit Inverness you could stop off at the Ruthven boulder which is just South of Inverness. You might find it a bit fingery but it's a nice spot and if you're into bird watching Loch Ruthven is worth a visit as well.

If the weather is nice you should visit Assynt which is North of Ullapool, just because it's really beautiful and there are some wonderful hills to walk up. Stac Pollaidh and Suilven in particular. My all time favourite bouldering spot is the little bay just to the North of the main beach at Achmelvich. There's a campsite there but I wouldn't recommend it in high Summer, it's very busy and noisy.

You should really go where the weather is good and it's often drier in the East than the West. Cummingston on the Moray coast, east of Inverness has got good bouldering and a nice walk along the cliff tops.

If you get as far as the North coast then there's some nice bouldering at a beach between Durness and Rispond, it's nice beach too. I'm sure you'd fnd some bouldering on the coast either side of Tongue as well but I've only climbed there, not bouldered.

If the weather's really nice and you get to Skye then take a walk up into Coire Laggan, it's an amazing place with loads of big boulders strewn around. 

Have a nice trip and don't worry about the midges. I've climbed in Scotland for more than 40 years and can only remember being chased from the crag twice, just make sure you've got some repellent like Smidge and maybe a net to put over your head.

https://www.scotsman.com/news-2-15012/the-best-outdoor-bouldering-venues-in...

Note: Bouldering at Dumbarton is mostly hard routes. 

https://www.mountaineering.scot/find-a-club

Lists climbing and walking clubs in Scotland for different areas in case you want to hook up with others. 

You are going to love it up here as there is so much to see and do from island hopping to fine mountain ridges. I just hope you get plenty of blue skies, but if not there are excellent indoor climbing centres in most cities. The climbing centre at Ratho in Edinburgh is the biggest indoor climbing centre in Europe. 

http://www.climbscotland.net/where-to-go/find-an-indoor-climbing-wall

I tried to write the definitive article on the Scottish midge. Hope it's useful

https://www.onlandscape.co.uk/2016/07/dreaded-scottish-midge/

In short, use Smidge, get Clothing with Permethrin in (or wash it in yourself) and Deet works sprayed on clothes (hats, gloves, sleeves, etc) but melts some plastics and is painful in eyes.