UKC

Are there any photos of easy routes on Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns)?

Much appreciated.

If you look at the climbs in the logbooks section most will have a selection of photos uploaded. 

Hi Ron,

Yes I saw those photos.

But I mean the easy climbs, (sure diffs are not as sexy as E+, But I can do what I can).

Thanks anyway. 

Best go and do some of the routes there and get some photos. It's a great crag.

It is a great crag but, from my very limited experience (one visit, soloing), the routefinding seemed more tricky than the routes. Also it was bone dry, on the day. I had the feeling that, if it were at all damp, it would be pretty greasy. So, a lovely place but still a venue to be taken seriously. (Though obviously we should take everywhere seriously.)

Mick

The North Wales Rockfax has topo photo of the crag on p262 showing several easy lines (Kirkus's Climb Direct, Chic, Bent, Slick, Slack & Pied Piper - all VD - S 4a)

It's quite easy to find the routes from the guidebook descriptions. If you decide to do Slack (Severe) there is a move left around a flake which is hard if you don't know of the huge hidden jug if you reach behind the flake.

You can climb almost anywhere between Kirkus's Climb and Slack at about VDiff/Severe. 

On Craig y Wyrsgan Y Gelynen is a great route and easier than it appears from the ground. 

I'd have to disagree with you, Mick. One of the characteristics of the rock here is that much of it is very rough and cindery and if the rock is damp it hardly makes any difference. I have climbed there in steady rain.

Great crag, though, especially for those of modest ambition. And there's a nice little club hut in Tan y Grisiau within walking distance of the crags (google Lancashire Climbing & Caving Club).

I'm no fan of climbing in the rain but I'm with you on that one.

Hi Frank,

I hope the following links are helpful, for, from L to R:
Chic (VDiff), Bent (S), Slick (VDiff) & Slack (S).

There's this detailed description of Chic, too, although I couldn't get the photos to load ...
https://www.trekitt.co.uk/content/bob-s-route-of-the-month-chic-vd-clogwyn-...

Happy climbing,
R

Chic, Bent (P1 & 2, only) & Slick
https://www.instagram.com/p/BkDvL_3jkbD/

Slick (last photo)
https://sasworldofadventure.blogspot.com/2017/06/holday-northumberland-and-...

Slack
http://www.blue-straggler.net/Slack%20and%20Tight%20at%20Clogwyn%20yr%20Oen...
via
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/route_id_clogwyn_yr_oen_next...
 

That's good to know. It was just a feeling (which was obviously wrong). When I'm soloing, I tend to be vaguely aware of general factors, the biggest of which, ironically, is how protectable the routes are!  I thought it was a charming crag. When I was there, the only other party was a lady climbing with a companion. I'm wondering now whether it was Barbara Roscoe. But I'll never know.

The Moelwyns seems to have a character all of its own. There's a sense of loss - that so many people have been there and gone. It's so lovely though!

Mick

We agree on all that! It's a great crag for just having a chilled out day in a delightful spot. It can get quite busy though, especially when P-y-B are using it for their teaching courses. But that also gives it a recommendation, indirectly.

Rog

Nor me, but you can get caught out on a multi pitch.