UKC

/ Greasy, loose gullies in the Lakes

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JonLongshanks on 12 Jun 2018

Can anyone recommend some slimy routes in the Lakes? Sandbags preferable.

We must have some similar stuff here to the likes of Raven's gully and The Chasm...

Tight chimneys are good too. 

 

Thanks

Jon

Steve Clark - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

Great gully, Pavey Ark. I’ve only done it years ago when tinder dry. I imagine the slabby bit is sufficiently horrible for you when it’s slimy. Probably not particularly safe.

 

MFB - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

I enjoyed 

Walla Crag Gully (VD)

Too dry currently i would think

pec on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

I think this route fits your requiremets with the added bonus of a 2 hour walk in

Walker's Gully (MVS 4c)

I believe this one is also a classic of its kind

Segeant's Crag Gully (summer) (S)

And the Lakes has its very own Raven Crag Gully

Raven Crag Gully (VD)

Good, luck though I confess I'm not recommending them on personal experience.

 

Dave Cumberland - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to pec:

Sergeant's Crag Gully is fine in the wet, as is Newlands Gully. Central Gully on Eagle Crag Buttermere is fine in a drought when bone dry, wouldn't fancy it in the wet. Walla will be dry and is a good rock route then.

johncoxmysteriously - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

Wasn't one of the Lakes' first VSses some hideous gully above Wastwater on the Screes side? There's also Intermediate Gully on Dow, but that might be a bit, well, normal. Unless it was raining at the time, perhaps.

 

jcm

Presley Whippet on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

The lakes is the driest it has been in a decade and you ask this? 

MFB - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

Y gully on haystack, got vs in old guide, fierce reputation. From reports, 100m crap rock covered in tottering piles of moss, xs.

Jon Stewart - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

No such routes exist in the lakes. All we have is immaculate soaring walls of sparkling clean rock, a bit like the cromlech but bigger and without the wet streaks.

Simon Caldwell - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Presley Whippet:

> The lakes is the driest it has been in a decade and you ask this? 

It won't be after tomorrow...

bedspring on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

Sergant Crag gully was one of my most enjoyable climbs ever, in the dry, however in the wet I am sure it would fit your bill.

MFB - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> No such routes exist in the lakes. All we have is immaculate soaring walls of sparkling clean rock, a bit like the cromlech but bigger and without the wet streaks.

Still banging on about Lower Falcon

John Kettle - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

Iron Crag Gully is hideously loose, likewise Chock Gully on Dollywagon (in summer). Gwynnes Chimney and Rake End Chimney (both Pavey) are both much more solid but still impressively slippery in the wet.

Piers Gill is good fun in all but high water flow.

Y gully on Haystacks I'd avoid unless you're into full-on vertical XS choss climbing.

d_b on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

Rake End Chimney (D) was filthy when I did it.  There was a dead sheep and everything.

Jon Stewart - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to MFB:

> Still banging on about Lower Falcon

ha

wercat on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

I seem to remember a slimy experience in Gwynne's Chimney above Jack's Rake on Pavey Ark.  A slimy end to an ascent that can begin with Crescent Climb which looks terrifying but really is the claimed Moderate.

MFB - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to wercat:

I don't think Gwynnes is too bad, gets enough traffic i guess, important holds are clean.

wercat on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to MFB:

I supposed it depends on how dry the ground conditions are - there was quite a bit of seepage evident when I was last there   Ended up as a classic slimy thrutch in big boots

C Witter on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

What about Moss Ghyll (S 3c)?

There are some gullies and chimneys on Dow, too, though I've not investigated - e.g. Intermediate Gully (MVS 4b) and Hopkinson's Crack (HS 4a). I wonder about the North Gully routes there, too.

Isn't there and OGJ route somewhere called Mouse Gill? Might be interesting for historical reasons!
 

JackO3522 - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to C Witter:

Walkers Gully on Pillar 

JonLongshanks on 15 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

Thanks for the replies these look nuts!

petegunn on 17 Jun 2018
In reply to C Witter:

Mouse Ghyll, 1897 Mr W. Cecil Slingsby and Party

"When the first party were here, a startled mouse sprang from the grassy ledge over the leaders head, and dropped safely at the bottom of the staircase ninety feet below. May it live long enough to learn that the ghyll has been named in its honour"

O.G. Jones Rock Climbing in the English Lake District

In reply to pec:

Walker's is neither particularly greasy not particularly loose. It's actually probably the best gully climb in the Lakes of any grade. Should be bone dry at the moment too. If you want greasy and loose on Pillar try West Jordan Gully! Actually also well worth doing. One to stay away from is Shamrock Gully - that is terminally loose.

machine on 20 Jun 2018
In reply to JonLongshanks:

Lorton gully in the wet on Grassmoor is great failing that try Keswick high street on a bank holiday.


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