/ Greasy, loose gullies in the Lakes
Can anyone recommend some slimy routes in the Lakes? Sandbags preferable.
We must have some similar stuff here to the likes of Raven's gully and The Chasm...
Tight chimneys are good too.
Great gully, Pavey Ark. I’ve only done it years ago when tinder dry. I imagine the slabby bit is sufficiently horrible for you when it’s slimy. Probably not particularly safe.
I think this route fits your requiremets with the added bonus of a 2 hour walk in
I believe this one is also a classic of its kind
And the Lakes has its very own Raven Crag Gully
Good, luck though I confess I'm not recommending them on personal experience.
Sergeant's Crag Gully is fine in the wet, as is Newlands Gully. Central Gully on Eagle Crag Buttermere is fine in a drought when bone dry, wouldn't fancy it in the wet. Walla will be dry and is a good rock route then.
Wasn't one of the Lakes' first VSses some hideous gully above Wastwater on the Screes side? There's also Intermediate Gully on Dow, but that might be a bit, well, normal. Unless it was raining at the time, perhaps.
The lakes is the driest it has been in a decade and you ask this?
Y gully on haystack, got vs in old guide, fierce reputation. From reports, 100m crap rock covered in tottering piles of moss, xs.
No such routes exist in the lakes. All we have is immaculate soaring walls of sparkling clean rock, a bit like the cromlech but bigger and without the wet streaks.
> The lakes is the driest it has been in a decade and you ask this?
It won't be after tomorrow...
Sergant Crag gully was one of my most enjoyable climbs ever, in the dry, however in the wet I am sure it would fit your bill.
> No such routes exist in the lakes. All we have is immaculate soaring walls of sparkling clean rock, a bit like the cromlech but bigger and without the wet streaks.
Still banging on about Lower Falcon
Iron Crag Gully is hideously loose, likewise Chock Gully on Dollywagon (in summer). Gwynnes Chimney and Rake End Chimney (both Pavey) are both much more solid but still impressively slippery in the wet.
Piers Gill is good fun in all but high water flow.
Y gully on Haystacks I'd avoid unless you're into full-on vertical XS choss climbing.
> Still banging on about Lower Falcon
I seem to remember a slimy experience in Gwynne's Chimney above Jack's Rake on Pavey Ark. A slimy end to an ascent that can begin with Crescent Climb which looks terrifying but really is the claimed Moderate.
I don't think Gwynnes is too bad, gets enough traffic i guess, important holds are clean.
I supposed it depends on how dry the ground conditions are - there was quite a bit of seepage evident when I was last there Ended up as a classic slimy thrutch in big boots
What about Moss Ghyll (S 3c)?
There are some gullies and chimneys on Dow, too, though I've not investigated - e.g. Intermediate Gully (MVS 4b) and Hopkinson's Crack (HS 4a). I wonder about the North Gully routes there, too.
Isn't there and OGJ route somewhere called Mouse Gill? Might be interesting for historical reasons!
Walkers Gully on Pillar
Thanks for the replies these look nuts!
Mouse Ghyll, 1897 Mr W. Cecil Slingsby and Party
"When the first party were here, a startled mouse sprang from the grassy ledge over the leaders head, and dropped safely at the bottom of the staircase ninety feet below. May it live long enough to learn that the ghyll has been named in its honour"
O.G. Jones Rock Climbing in the English Lake District
Walker's is neither particularly greasy not particularly loose. It's actually probably the best gully climb in the Lakes of any grade. Should be bone dry at the moment too. If you want greasy and loose on Pillar try West Jordan Gully! Actually also well worth doing. One to stay away from is Shamrock Gully - that is terminally loose.
Lorton gully in the wet on Grassmoor is great failing that try Keswick high street on a bank holiday.
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