UKC

Need advice for buying axes. Current requirements are ski touring + alpine climbing.

Did a day with a guide this year in the summer who had a petzl sum'tec and it was awesome (judging mainly by looking + fiddling). Thought this would be the perfect tool to suit the above.

However I also want to (although have not yet) dabble in Scottish winter + maybe an ice trip next year. I kind of assume the sum'tec will be ok on easy ice? (I'm sure people have climbed with much worse). Therefore I was thinking I could complement it with another more technical axe (viper/quark).

Is his a stupid idea?

Heard some good things about 'singing rock' and they appear to do some nice looking gear - in particular the wizard/wizard light & bandits. I'm keen on a deal and know the sum'tec is expensive so this is also an alternative (and much cheaper) option.

What should I do?!

In reply to Womble:

If you like Sum'tec just get a pair, they will be fine for easy anything and will be great as a ski touring axe. Also have look at the Grivel Light machine, similar tools and some great pair deals on at the moment.

In reply to Dark-Cloud:

Great stuff cheers!

In reply to Womble:

£238 for the pair at climbers shop, almost tempted myself, that’s with the ice pick though so if you want to do mixed will need to swap them, the Grivel light machine has T picks

In reply to Dark-Cloud:


I've climbed mixed with Petzl Ice picks with no problem. Petzl actually describe it as a pick for ice and mixed climbing. Have a look at Urbanrock, normally the best price on axe pairs.

In reply to Womble:

I've been climbing on the singing rock bandits for a couple of years now, they're good tools and not as expensive as others. I use a different axe for alpine terrain though unless I expect steep(ish) ice.

In reply to Womble:
Personally I’d get different ice axes for different activities. You could get one axe for ski mountaineering and alpine climbing. Although ski mountaineering axes tend to be light and less robust, but they have the right pick for ice axe arrest like alpine axes. Alpine axes are often harder wearing and a bit heavier and not unusual to get them a bit longer as it can make them more comfortable for stability on slopes.

Modern climbing axes have an aggressive pick and curved handle and are less good for general mountaineering mostly as they are short, less easy to plunge the base in snow and the picks are not as good for self arrest as they are too aggressive and the chance of the axe being torn from you is quite high. They also tend to be quite heavy.

. I’d personally start with a reasonably light weight alpine axe that should be fine for ski mountaineering. I went for a T rated Grivel air tec Evolution for alpine climbing. It’s very good and robust but maybe a bit heavy for your needs.

If you intend to climb ice or mixed the bandits sound good. A pair of these and an alpine axe should cover your needs better and not be a much different price to a pair of sum teccs.

In reply to CurlyStevo:
If you intend to use the alpine axe roped climbing where you may belay off the axe it’s probably wise to get a T rated shaft, but many people do use B rated too. Also Aluminium picks are not meant for climbing really just occasional snow use.

In reply to Womble:

Depends what grades you want to climb. I have the orginal Sum'tecs and they are great for what I do in Scotland (ski touring, climbs from I to III/IV). Long ago I regularly climbed Scottish IV/V and Alpine D/TD north faces, and Sum'tecs would have been great at those grades -- better than any of the tools I had at the time. But if you want to climb mainly on waterfall ice or rimed-up rock you'd be better off with a pair of radical tools with fancy handles, and buy something cheap and light for ski touring and glacier walking.

Cheers all. Will keep on the lookout for my dream Sum’tec. But if no luck I will go for the singing rock axes and try out their alpine one when skiing in jan (only about £40) then buy the bandits if I migrate to ice later on.

Cheers!