In reply to TobyA:
> But you don't always clip them the same way round - like I said, sometime you just desperately stuff them back on a gear loop - any gear loop - ASAP so you can clip the rope or grab a hold before you fall off.
I'm not renowned for my dexterity, but I always manage to clip krabs onto my gear loops the same way round. Whatever hand I'm doing it with and irrespective of whether I'm in extremis or not, or reaching round to clip it to the 'wrong' side for whatever reason, I always use the same clipping action.
Or if the krab flips on your harness and you go to grab it without really thinking much you can pull the gate open and stuff can fall off.
I can't recall this ever happening either. Even if you're not looking, you can feel which side the gate's on before you close your hand to open the gate. Unless you just reach down and start clawing aimlessly at krabs in the hope that the right piece of gear magically appears in your hand?
I'm not trying to have a go here, it's just such a non-issue to me that I cannot understand why anybody else has a problem with it.
And of course you can look, although old school plain gate ovals were hopeless even in that respect - it was hard even to see which end was which.
That's fair enough. Old school solid gate ones were much harder to spot. I use wire gate ovals to rack all my nuts on, which are trival to look at and see which way the gate opens.
> But anyway, that's by the by - what are the advantages of buying ovals specially? I always took it to be a hangover when books from 80s and 70s told us all we needed oval krabs for racking pitons on.
The nuts don't all bunch up so much at the bottom of the krab, making it much easier (in my experience) to pick out the right wire rather. As an added bonus this also makes it less likely you'll throw a load of wires down the crag when you accidentally grab the wrong one and take a bunch of others off with it.