/ Trad Beginner Locations Lake District

Peter_Kay 05 Mar 2020

So I've climbed on and off for a few years now, am a competent top rope belayer, and want to move into lead/trad climbing. I've started building a rack, and have a couple of friends who fancy doing some trad climbing in the coming months. What I'm after is any good locations in the Lake District, preferably south, where we could go for a day out and have a few very low grade trad climbs with pretty good protection to choose from. I'm thinking high scrambling and very low climbing grades if possible, so we can experiment with gear and get used to it without putting ourselves in too much danger! It would also be good to have at least 5 or 6 routes of similar grades to choose from, so we can move around without it getting too boring doing the same route over and over. Bonus points if they're suitable to set up a top rope first, and even better if there's also a bit of bouldering around too! Also, I've only got a 50m rope at the moment, so nothing too massive.

Any suggestions would be great! Thanks

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Mark Eddy 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Peter_Kay:

Plenty in the South Lakes. Try Long Scar / Black crag on Pike O'Blisco: https://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/rock-climbing-progression

There is an article all about 'Easy Outcrop Climbing' in the Lakes in the March-April edition of Climber magazine. That shows loads to go at at Long Scar.

Raven crag in Yewdale is also worth a look. A grade 2 scramble, but a good place to practice gear placements and can make the route more challenging if desired.

HTH

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Pero 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Peter_Kay:

Unless you are looking at abseils there is almost nowhere you need more than a 50m rope to climb.

Some routes might be better with two half ropes, but at the lower grades it's unlikely to be a major issue.

Post edited at 14:06
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Andy Hardy 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Peter_Kay:

Not strictly in the lakes, but it fills most of your other requirements Hutton Roof Crags

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Peter_Kay 05 Mar 2020

Thanks very much for all the ideas! I'll look into them all and hopefully get some good experience in this summer! Thanks  

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plyometrics 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Peter_Kay:

Whitestone ???

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cathsullivan 06 Mar 2020
In reply to plyometrics:

Not sure I would recommend Whitestone ... the gear can be a bit fiddly and maybe better places if you're wanting to get started with placing gear on easy routes.

Upper Scout in Langdale would be a good option.  Also, second the Hutton Roof suggestion.  Warton Upper or Warton Pinnacle would also be good (again, not quite Lakes but very suitable for what you're after and often better weather ... although both of these crags can be a bit tricky to find if you don't know where you're going).

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Ann S 06 Mar 2020
In reply to Andy Hardy:

You beat me to it.

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Lankyman 06 Mar 2020
In reply to Peter_Kay:

I'd echo the Hutton Roof suggestions unless it's blowing a gale as it is quite exposed. You could then try Fairy Steps which is in the woods. It can be particularly nice before the leaves come out on the trees and the sun hits the rock. For trying your runner-placing skills limestone can be particularly good as there are often lots of natural features which you can walk around fitting stuff into without even getting off the ground. On the Warton crags it's possible to track the sun as it moves around from one side of the hill to the other - useful if it's cold up there. If you fancy getting off the beaten track (and a nice walk up through the woods) you could try Slape Scar up on the lost world of Whitbarrow.

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Barrington 22 Mar 2020
In reply to Lankyman:

Dow Crag. Plenty for you there & it will give you a good introduction to the "real stuff"

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C Witter 24 Mar 2020
In reply to Peter_Kay:

I'd echo others in recommending

Hutton Roof

Warton Pinnacle/Upper

Fairy Steps

Farleton

Trowbarrow

Long Scar.

I'd save Upper Scout, Raven Langdale and Dow until you're confident enough for multipitch in a more intimidating environment.

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