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Well, it's almost the end of the Summer season in truth. Some dry rock will keep us occupied and there's always grit but those warm halcyon days are over.
So, to reflect on past glories etc, what was your best experience (climbing related that is) on rock this Summer?
My choice goes to an early season lead of Aphasia at Sergeants Crag Slabs. I laughed, I cried and somehow I scraped up it. A very memorable and enjoyable climb.
So, to reflect on past glories etc, what was your best experience (climbing related that is) on rock this Summer?
My choice goes to an early season lead of Aphasia at Sergeants Crag Slabs. I laughed, I cried and somehow I scraped up it. A very memorable and enjoyable climb.
In reply to JonC:
Gotta be Spectre in the Pass on my birthday. Was grinning all over when we topped out - was our 1st proper multipitch HVS and absolute quality.
Gotta be Spectre in the Pass on my birthday. Was grinning all over when we topped out - was our 1st proper multipitch HVS and absolute quality.
In reply to clams:
Not done much in the Pass this year unfortunately. I can still remember my first big HVS, Troutdale Pinaccle Superdirect. It is a big step up isn't it.
Not done much in the Pass this year unfortunately. I can still remember my first big HVS, Troutdale Pinaccle Superdirect. It is a big step up isn't it.
In reply to JonC:
I was thinking of Aphasia too.
However Jack the Ripper on Stac Pollaidh edges it into second because of the situation especially on the last pitch.
I was thinking of Aphasia too.
However Jack the Ripper on Stac Pollaidh edges it into second because of the situation especially on the last pitch.
In reply to Removed User:
Actually, that's funny as we scrambled along Stac Pollaidh for the first time this year and it was in my mind as one of my most fun days out this year (a sunny May road trip up NW Scotland, also did Spartan Slab which was great).
> Jack the Ripper on Stac Pollaidh
Actually, that's funny as we scrambled along Stac Pollaidh for the first time this year and it was in my mind as one of my most fun days out this year (a sunny May road trip up NW Scotland, also did Spartan Slab which was great).
In reply to JonC:
Manchester Buttress at Stanage.
Ive done a few things in Wales as well and had a great day at Idwal, but that climb was definitely my favorite. So action-packed, and the feeling after the econd traverse...
Manchester Buttress at Stanage.
Ive done a few things in Wales as well and had a great day at Idwal, but that climb was definitely my favorite. So action-packed, and the feeling after the econd traverse...
In reply to JonC:
Difficult, as it's been a pretty good summer. I think Cioch West, Arrow Route and Integrity (Skye) made the best day, and Cima Cason di Formin (near Cortina, Dolomites) the best line. The best route overall, probably Cioch Nose (Applecross).
Difficult, as it's been a pretty good summer. I think Cioch West, Arrow Route and Integrity (Skye) made the best day, and Cima Cason di Formin (near Cortina, Dolomites) the best line. The best route overall, probably Cioch Nose (Applecross).
In reply to JonC:
A 45m 6b+ on the El Falco wall in Arboli, Costa Daurada.
It just went on, and on, and on, and on.
And then it went on some more.
A 45m 6b+ on the El Falco wall in Arboli, Costa Daurada.
It just went on, and on, and on, and on.
And then it went on some more.
In reply to JonC:
Nice topic. "Warm halycon days..." Lovely thought.
Left Wall on the Cromlech
Grey Panther @ Kilt Rock
Snake Dike on Half Dome
Cuillin Ridge
Mark
Nice topic. "Warm halycon days..." Lovely thought.
Left Wall on the Cromlech
Grey Panther @ Kilt Rock
Snake Dike on Half Dome
Cuillin Ridge
Mark
In reply to JonC:
Knights climb - Cheddar gorge, awesome exposure, amazing veiws and my first experience of Cheddar gorge multi pitch climbs.
Knights climb - Cheddar gorge, awesome exposure, amazing veiws and my first experience of Cheddar gorge multi pitch climbs.
In reply to JonC:
Central Buttress on Beinn Eighe, by a semi-random variation of Piggott's Route. Glorious weather, nice warm rock, superb climbing, the entire crag to ourselves (of course). Followed by a pleasant walk to the summit, the entire mountain to ourselves.
Central Buttress on Beinn Eighe, by a semi-random variation of Piggott's Route. Glorious weather, nice warm rock, superb climbing, the entire crag to ourselves (of course). Followed by a pleasant walk to the summit, the entire mountain to ourselves.
In reply to JonC:
The normal route on El Naranjo de Bulnes in the Picos. It should have been Amistad con El Diablo but we backed off that. Nice to get to a summit. Lovely area.
Bob
The normal route on El Naranjo de Bulnes in the Picos. It should have been Amistad con El Diablo but we backed off that. Nice to get to a summit. Lovely area.
Bob
In reply to JonC: The Long Reach on Etive Slabs. Lost the line 3 pitches from the top and finished up the long wait direct. This and the late start conspired to make us finish after dark without head torches. Finally back at the car at 1;30am where we slept out under the stars.
In reply to JonC:
Difficult to say really. I really enjoyed January Jigsaw on a lovely sunny day in June. At the start of August I had two brilliant days on Skye - Cioch West / Arrow Route one day (although I was disappointed not to do Integrity as well) was really good, although I think the day I did Sunset Slab & Yellow Groove, followed by scrambling to the top of Sgurr Sgumain and Sgurr Alistair in perfect weather might well have been the best of the lot.
I had some good days on grit as well, but I don't think you can really count any of them compared to the Scottish mountains!
Difficult to say really. I really enjoyed January Jigsaw on a lovely sunny day in June. At the start of August I had two brilliant days on Skye - Cioch West / Arrow Route one day (although I was disappointed not to do Integrity as well) was really good, although I think the day I did Sunset Slab & Yellow Groove, followed by scrambling to the top of Sgurr Sgumain and Sgurr Alistair in perfect weather might well have been the best of the lot.
I had some good days on grit as well, but I don't think you can really count any of them compared to the Scottish mountains!
In reply to JonC:
It was about August before I actually got up a route this year even though I've been out climbing quite a lot, so there isn't much to choose from so I'd have to go with:
1) Tremelo, Malham
2) Headline, Lundy
3) Wuthering (comes to something when a grit route makes my top 3!)
It was about August before I actually got up a route this year even though I've been out climbing quite a lot, so there isn't much to choose from so I'd have to go with:
1) Tremelo, Malham
2) Headline, Lundy
3) Wuthering (comes to something when a grit route makes my top 3!)
In reply to JonC:
been a few as this was my first year at trad.
Main Wall. Llanberis. my first real lead.
Spectre. Llanberis. for the terrifyingly awkward crack that nearly ate me.
The Fang. Tremadog. stupendous. my mate fell off and was utterly shitting bricks by the time he got to me. i could smell his fear.
Cemetry Gates. Llanberis. First e1 and a real daunting lead because of it.
The Strand. Gogarth. cos i was shitting bricks this time but loved every inch of what is an amazing crack.
been a few as this was my first year at trad.
Main Wall. Llanberis. my first real lead.
Spectre. Llanberis. for the terrifyingly awkward crack that nearly ate me.
The Fang. Tremadog. stupendous. my mate fell off and was utterly shitting bricks by the time he got to me. i could smell his fear.
Cemetry Gates. Llanberis. First e1 and a real daunting lead because of it.
The Strand. Gogarth. cos i was shitting bricks this time but loved every inch of what is an amazing crack.
In reply to JonC:
Dream of White Horses.
Main Wall (although somewhat spoilt by the tossers in front who wouldn't let us past and forced us to spend 6 hours on the route in total; still a terrific climb).
Golden Slipper.
Dream of White Horses.
Main Wall (although somewhat spoilt by the tossers in front who wouldn't let us past and forced us to spend 6 hours on the route in total; still a terrific climb).
Golden Slipper.
F Route at Gimmer, Little Brown Jug at Bosigran, or The Grack in Yosemite
In reply to Andyhob:
Golden Slipper was one of my top days out last year. A truly hot rock day in the Lakes, unbelievable!
Golden Slipper was one of my top days out last year. A truly hot rock day in the Lakes, unbelievable!
In reply to JonC:
Had a broken foot for a chunk of the summer, so for the first time in 20-odd years never climbed in the mountains, even Wales or The Lakes! Therefore a heavy sea-cliff bias:
Nice and Sleazy, Aardvaark and Scavenger, Gogarth - all much, much better than I expected.
Matchless, Culm - a big, black, scary-looking pitch, especially on a windy day.
Bon Voyage, Pembroke - not great, just good.
Contraception on Demand, Bosley Cloud - OK it's not even that good, but I was so, so psyched...
JHB
Had a broken foot for a chunk of the summer, so for the first time in 20-odd years never climbed in the mountains, even Wales or The Lakes! Therefore a heavy sea-cliff bias:
Nice and Sleazy, Aardvaark and Scavenger, Gogarth - all much, much better than I expected.
Matchless, Culm - a big, black, scary-looking pitch, especially on a windy day.
Bon Voyage, Pembroke - not great, just good.
Contraception on Demand, Bosley Cloud - OK it's not even that good, but I was so, so psyched...
JHB
In reply to JonC:
West Country on Stately Pleasure Dome. Aside from the route being bloody brilliant this is partly due to me backing off the layback pitch. It was the first hard pitch I tried to lead on the first hard route of our holiday and gear placements were not going well and it all got a bit too much. The only solution was to push it out on the bold pitch above, to get the old head back in gear.
West Country on Stately Pleasure Dome. Aside from the route being bloody brilliant this is partly due to me backing off the layback pitch. It was the first hard pitch I tried to lead on the first hard route of our holiday and gear placements were not going well and it all got a bit too much. The only solution was to push it out on the bold pitch above, to get the old head back in gear.
In reply to JonC: havent done much this year, probably christmas curry at tremdog, great day.
In reply to JonC:
prob the sw ridge on the trifthorn, snowed up rock, got down to zinal, missed the last bus back to zermat, had to sleep on the park bench. i guess once a tramp...
prob the sw ridge on the trifthorn, snowed up rock, got down to zinal, missed the last bus back to zermat, had to sleep on the park bench. i guess once a tramp...
In reply to Offwidth:
Ooh, did Hermaphrodite Flake last year in searing heat - superb route. West Country - recall the name but not the line. Super "crag" though in an amazing location. Walk in was a bit long though
Ooh, did Hermaphrodite Flake last year in searing heat - superb route. West Country - recall the name but not the line. Super "crag" though in an amazing location. Walk in was a bit long though
In reply to JonC:
West Country has a common start and climbs immediately right of Hermaphrodite Flake and its continuation: The Boltway. It takes the superb curving right facing corner just left of the top of the flake, then the featured slab and the slanting crack above. From where it leaves HF it has amazing and quite sustained climbing with a few tricky 5.7 sections: in UK terms low in the 4c grade but adjectivally somewhere around the VS/HVS border.
West Country has a common start and climbs immediately right of Hermaphrodite Flake and its continuation: The Boltway. It takes the superb curving right facing corner just left of the top of the flake, then the featured slab and the slanting crack above. From where it leaves HF it has amazing and quite sustained climbing with a few tricky 5.7 sections: in UK terms low in the 4c grade but adjectivally somewhere around the VS/HVS border.
In reply to Offwidth:
Yes, recall it now. In fact, though I'd forgotten, we had intended to do the Westway but my second was struggling in the heat and the Flake looked so good we continued up that instead.
Yes, recall it now. In fact, though I'd forgotten, we had intended to do the Westway but my second was struggling in the heat and the Flake looked so good we continued up that instead.
In reply to JonC:
Onsighting: Christmas Curry
Leading after having seconded: Tennis Shoe
Seconding: One Step in the Clouds
Onsighting: Christmas Curry
Leading after having seconded: Tennis Shoe
Seconding: One Step in the Clouds
In reply to TRNovice:
Christmas Curry is a route which gets better with repetition I've found, as does 1SITC. No idea why really as normally I don't repeat routes. Have you done the Micah Elim finish to Xmas Curry - well worth it - superb HS bordering on VS for a brief moment or two...
Christmas Curry is a route which gets better with repetition I've found, as does 1SITC. No idea why really as normally I don't repeat routes. Have you done the Micah Elim finish to Xmas Curry - well worth it - superb HS bordering on VS for a brief moment or two...
In reply to JonC:
Was relieved enough to do it the original way (it was my first severe onsight) - lots of people have recommended the eliminate to me. Looking back down on it, in many ways it seemed less hairy that getting into and out of that damned groove at the top.
We have a new strategy of warming up by repeating routes at Severe rather than trying something new at VDiff, so an Xmas Curry repeat is probably on the list.
> (In reply to TRNovice)
>
> Have you done the Micah Elim finish to Xmas Curry
>
> Have you done the Micah Elim finish to Xmas Curry
Was relieved enough to do it the original way (it was my first severe onsight) - lots of people have recommended the eliminate to me. Looking back down on it, in many ways it seemed less hairy that getting into and out of that damned groove at the top.
We have a new strategy of warming up by repeating routes at Severe rather than trying something new at VDiff, so an Xmas Curry repeat is probably on the list.
In reply to JonC:
Svolvaer Goat, Lofoten by the Front Side Route, 30+ years after 1st seeing a picture of it. And no - I didn't jump between the horns!
Chris
Svolvaer Goat, Lofoten by the Front Side Route, 30+ years after 1st seeing a picture of it. And no - I didn't jump between the horns!
Chris
In reply to TRNovice:
Actually, I led Micah Elim before the normal variant. Micah Elim is more techincal and feels a bit more out there (and is quite exposed and run out on the arete). However, I would agree that the final sections on the normal variant is quite "interesting". Well done.
Actually, I led Micah Elim before the normal variant. Micah Elim is more techincal and feels a bit more out there (and is quite exposed and run out on the arete). However, I would agree that the final sections on the normal variant is quite "interesting". Well done.
In reply to JonC:
Best day in a lousy year was Eliminate A on Dow- swung the leads and by an amazing co-incidence my mate got the 4c bits; superb route and an absolute must do -all you aspiring VS leaders get out there and do it.
Best day in a lousy year was Eliminate A on Dow- swung the leads and by an amazing co-incidence my mate got the 4c bits; superb route and an absolute must do -all you aspiring VS leaders get out there and do it.
In reply to JonC: Has to be the week in font. climbed loads of problems. Never took the slightest bit of notice of grades. Lovely place, great time.
Other than that the summer was a bit of a wash out.
Other than that the summer was a bit of a wash out.
In reply to JonC: Not really one that I climbed, but the route that really stood out for me this summer was the aborted attempt on grey slab (glyder fawr). It had every aspect of a true epic but fortunately finished in the traditional retreat to the pub.
In reply to Richard Bradley:
I like it. I could never really get my head round the grades either .. and as for the coloured circuits, the range of difficulty was huge. I was operating on the yellow/orange and blue circuits ( I think), and I think one black. But I really couldn't understand how it worked. Absolutely fabulous climbing though.
> (In reply to JonC) Has to be the week in font. climbed loads of problems. Never took the slightest bit of notice of grades.
I like it. I could never really get my head round the grades either .. and as for the coloured circuits, the range of difficulty was huge. I was operating on the yellow/orange and blue circuits ( I think), and I think one black. But I really couldn't understand how it worked. Absolutely fabulous climbing though.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: Yeh. With so many fabulous problems why bother? Just walk to the next one that takes your fancy. Can't wait to go back. Easter I think.
In reply to JonC:
Has to be flying buttress direct. Felt a bit awed even before starting it but did it in good style and loved it.
I feel a bit rubbish because most people are giving long multi-pitch stuff as their best routes. Is it just me that isn't too fussed about multi-pitch stuff? They just seem like more of a hassle to me and because they are multi-pitch don't seem as consistent (grade-wise) as snigle pitch climbs.
Okay, the scenery is usually better but that's not everything.
Has to be flying buttress direct. Felt a bit awed even before starting it but did it in good style and loved it.
I feel a bit rubbish because most people are giving long multi-pitch stuff as their best routes. Is it just me that isn't too fussed about multi-pitch stuff? They just seem like more of a hassle to me and because they are multi-pitch don't seem as consistent (grade-wise) as snigle pitch climbs.
Okay, the scenery is usually better but that's not everything.
In reply to MeMeMe:
I'm going to be a bit of a lightweight here, since I only started leading outdoors back in about May this year, and still only have 18 outdoor leads under my belt.
Anatomy, at Stanage, is probably my favourite, which was also my 2nd lead, although Stoked and Stoker's Break at Birchen Edge the following day were also very nice.
I'm going to be a bit of a lightweight here, since I only started leading outdoors back in about May this year, and still only have 18 outdoor leads under my belt.
Anatomy, at Stanage, is probably my favourite, which was also my 2nd lead, although Stoked and Stoker's Break at Birchen Edge the following day were also very nice.
In reply to Dominion:
It's not about how hard the climb is, it's about how good it felt to you.
I did climbs just as hard or harder then Flying Buttress Direct (okay, not much harder), but things just came together really well on that climb and I really enjoyed it so it was really memorable.
I hate it when people put themselves down before saying what they did, be proud you did those leads!
It's not about how hard the climb is, it's about how good it felt to you.
I did climbs just as hard or harder then Flying Buttress Direct (okay, not much harder), but things just came together really well on that climb and I really enjoyed it so it was really memorable.
I hate it when people put themselves down before saying what they did, be proud you did those leads!
In reply to MeMeMe:
Actually, I am well chuffed. One of my aims this year was to lead some routes on real rock, which I did. And Anatomy, I'd still class as my most enjoyable trad lead, simply because it was right at the forefront of my learning curve, and not only a 2nd outdoors lead, but I'd only seconded about 5 or 6 routes, too.
Having had a bit more of a think, I'd also put The Cake Walk at Horsehoe Quarry (given a F5 in Northern Limestone, but only an F4 on the Rockfax database) as a very enjoyable first Sports/bolted route.
Actually, I am well chuffed. One of my aims this year was to lead some routes on real rock, which I did. And Anatomy, I'd still class as my most enjoyable trad lead, simply because it was right at the forefront of my learning curve, and not only a 2nd outdoors lead, but I'd only seconded about 5 or 6 routes, too.
Having had a bit more of a think, I'd also put The Cake Walk at Horsehoe Quarry (given a F5 in Northern Limestone, but only an F4 on the Rockfax database) as a very enjoyable first Sports/bolted route.
In reply to JonC: Amorican at Pembroke,
Overhanging Bastion at Castle Rock
Gauntlet, Britomartis and Pentathol at Gogarth, the latter a bit of an epic as we didn't have a clue which route we were on at first thought it was Scavenger but after ran out 30m of 5a climbing knew we were on wrong route, luckily picked the only other HVS in the vicinity phew!
Overhanging Bastion at Castle Rock
Gauntlet, Britomartis and Pentathol at Gogarth, the latter a bit of an epic as we didn't have a clue which route we were on at first thought it was Scavenger but after ran out 30m of 5a climbing knew we were on wrong route, luckily picked the only other HVS in the vicinity phew!
In reply to JonC: Sandpiper at Fairhead - an awesome long E2 5c pitch on immaculate crisp rock.
Nearly beat TIme for Tea at Millstone.
Nearly beat TIme for Tea at Millstone.
In reply to JonC:
Best all round climb was Eve at sheperds crag.
Also really enjoyed crack and corner at the roaches.
Best all round climb was Eve at sheperds crag.
Also really enjoyed crack and corner at the roaches.
In reply to Woker: 'Peter Pan' E1, on Never Never Land on Segaria in the Costa Blanca, first ascent yesterday!
In reply to JonC: The Cayman, Napes crag, Salbitchijen S.Ridge, Luna Nascente, Val di mello
In reply to JonC:
Too close to call between Mur Y Niwl/Pinnacle Wall and Fionn Buttress. Kirkus's on Cwm Silyn and Gimmer Crack were also very, very good.
I prefer the big stuff, but in a single-pitch idiom Proud Corner at Glen Clova and Razor's Edge at Knapdale were right up there with the very best I've done.
'Twas a good Summer...
JAMIE B>
Too close to call between Mur Y Niwl/Pinnacle Wall and Fionn Buttress. Kirkus's on Cwm Silyn and Gimmer Crack were also very, very good.
I prefer the big stuff, but in a single-pitch idiom Proud Corner at Glen Clova and Razor's Edge at Knapdale were right up there with the very best I've done.
'Twas a good Summer...
JAMIE B>
In reply to Jamie B.:
Doh! jealous... very jealous.
My excuse is having become a dad I have done less this summer than ever before since I started climbing, so a lot less to choose from. If I did a top three
1) Ampitheatre Buttress, Snowdonia. V Diff. The climbing was actually a bit of a let down, lots of scrambling not much climbing, but wonderful views and nice to get to the hills. Climbed it with my brother-in-law is was a total beginner and had never been anywhere in the UK beside London before so was quite suprised when he saw that we have 'mountains'.
2) Flying Stone, Olhava, Finland. HVS 5a. At the unpopular end of the crag meaning this 35 mtr line need lots of crack cleaning as I went to get the gear in. Delicate in parts, slightly scary in others, finger tip jamming, some steep crack climbing to finish. All good stuff.
3) The Crank, Ramshaw. VS 5a. Short but perfectly formed. Didn't know such a short route could make me sweat so much.
> (In reply to JonC)
>
> Too close to call between Mur Y Niwl/Pinnacle Wall and Fionn Buttress.
>
> Too close to call between Mur Y Niwl/Pinnacle Wall and Fionn Buttress.
Doh! jealous... very jealous.
My excuse is having become a dad I have done less this summer than ever before since I started climbing, so a lot less to choose from. If I did a top three
1) Ampitheatre Buttress, Snowdonia. V Diff. The climbing was actually a bit of a let down, lots of scrambling not much climbing, but wonderful views and nice to get to the hills. Climbed it with my brother-in-law is was a total beginner and had never been anywhere in the UK beside London before so was quite suprised when he saw that we have 'mountains'.
2) Flying Stone, Olhava, Finland. HVS 5a. At the unpopular end of the crag meaning this 35 mtr line need lots of crack cleaning as I went to get the gear in. Delicate in parts, slightly scary in others, finger tip jamming, some steep crack climbing to finish. All good stuff.
3) The Crank, Ramshaw. VS 5a. Short but perfectly formed. Didn't know such a short route could make me sweat so much.
In reply to JonC:
Well, as this was the year that i first started climbing, then i have to say that every climb has been a joy! Though, if pushed, I'd have to plump for the airiness of 'crackstone rib' in the pass or the even airier arete on echo 2 outside alicante!
Long may it continue...
Well, as this was the year that i first started climbing, then i have to say that every climb has been a joy! Though, if pushed, I'd have to plump for the airiness of 'crackstone rib' in the pass or the even airier arete on echo 2 outside alicante!
Long may it continue...
In reply to JonC: onsighting wilton wall at wilton 1, lancashire- brilliant
In reply to free_doherty:
Epinephrine, Red Rocks
2,000 foot sustained 5.9 including 600 feet of chimneying.
As mentioned on a previous thread I found the chimneys a mental and physical struggle (felt like E3), but that made the climb all the more rewarding.
Perfect rock, beautiful setting, shared the pleasure with my partner Lorne and avoided a bivouac by about 10 minutes..what more could you ask?
Epinephrine, Red Rocks
2,000 foot sustained 5.9 including 600 feet of chimneying.
As mentioned on a previous thread I found the chimneys a mental and physical struggle (felt like E3), but that made the climb all the more rewarding.
Perfect rock, beautiful setting, shared the pleasure with my partner Lorne and avoided a bivouac by about 10 minutes..what more could you ask?
In reply to JonC: kippling grove no consest. last day of school, first route of summer hols, bliss. lead awsome overlap.
Rope soloing Pis Fluich on the Ailladie Sea Cliffs in Co. Clare. This was on a family holiday, therefore so as not to interfere with the rest of the day, up at 4am. 30 odd minute drive to the crag, started climbing at 5am, and back at the holiday cottage by 6am. Brilliant climbing,
glorious dawn, lovely views and surprisingly enough I had the crag to myself:
glorious dawn, lovely views and surprisingly enough I had the crag to myself:
In reply to Fiend:
Allegedly.
Actually, my Summer ended in about May - or at least that's the last time I can recall a totally dry day on rock anywhere in the UK other than the Peak.
> Summer?? There was a summer??
Allegedly.
Actually, my Summer ended in about May - or at least that's the last time I can recall a totally dry day on rock anywhere in the UK other than the Peak.
In reply to JonC: Fiend wont like me for this, but Fate E3 5c, Stanage
In reply to JonC:
> Actually, my Summer ended in about May - or at least that's the last time I can recall a totally dry day on rock anywhere in the UK other than the Peak
I think you must have been in a different UK to me then! Most weekend days were dry in one corner or another. In reply to Iain Forrest:
Oh things conspired against me - you know, like people being selfish enough to get married on the only dry weekend in August. That kind of thing.
Oh things conspired against me - you know, like people being selfish enough to get married on the only dry weekend in August. That kind of thing.
In reply to JonC:
Shocking. People should save things like that for November
Shocking. People should save things like that for November
In reply to Andrew Emery:
Fate is given E1 5c , most people say E2 5c which seems fair. A headpoint of an E2 drops about 2 grades....
So, congratulations on your first "HVS"....
Fate is given E1 5c , most people say E2 5c which seems fair. A headpoint of an E2 drops about 2 grades....
So, congratulations on your first "HVS"....
The Indy 500 on Lundy. My first (and only) E1, in reasonably good style, followed by much whooping and hollering.
In reply to Iain Forrest:
Agreed, I had an excellent summer. Much of Auguist was a bit damp but we still got out every weekend and at least one weekday evening.
Agreed, I had an excellent summer. Much of Auguist was a bit damp but we still got out every weekend and at least one weekday evening.
In reply to JonC:
A perfect day climbing 'f' route, whit's end direct and springbank in glorious sunshine.
A perfect day climbing 'f' route, whit's end direct and springbank in glorious sunshine.
In reply to jude s:
Ah, now, Springbank and Whit's End Direct are very high on my tick list. I failed to get to Gimmer at all this yeat - rained almost every time I was in the Lakes during the main Summer. What did you think of them?
Ah, now, Springbank and Whit's End Direct are very high on my tick list. I failed to get to Gimmer at all this yeat - rained almost every time I was in the Lakes during the main Summer. What did you think of them?
In reply to JonC:
Left wall ,when it rained ,in April, at the fork left from Res.and getting away with it.
Seeing my mate fail on Lords when he should have flown up it and not down it to the ground.Couldn't stop laughing.
Left wall ,when it rained ,in April, at the fork left from Res.and getting away with it.
Seeing my mate fail on Lords when he should have flown up it and not down it to the ground.Couldn't stop laughing.
In reply to Al Evans:
I'm with you on that one Al. Hard to beat that last pitch and on a first ascent too. Fantastic.
Adrian Bates
Costa Blanca Climbing
http://www.geocities.com/costablancaclimbing
> 'Peter Pan' E1, on Never Never Land on Segaria in the Costa Blanca, first ascent yesterday!
I'm with you on that one Al. Hard to beat that last pitch and on a first ascent too. Fantastic.
Adrian Bates
Costa Blanca Climbing
http://www.geocities.com/costablancaclimbing
In reply to JonC:
shrike over at cloggy was awesome. also loved 'a dream of white horses' which i've been meaning to do for a long long time
shrike over at cloggy was awesome. also loved 'a dream of white horses' which i've been meaning to do for a long long time
In reply to JonC:
Gotta be something on Lundy, but it was all so nice that I can't pick one. Walrus was lovely, looked a lot harder than it is, just felt lovely when you were on it. Enjoyed the stuff on the Slide, and the stuff on Flying Buttress, really liked Horseman's Route, just about everything was great, and the weather was amazing as well.
Earlier on in the summer, Domes de Miage in the Alps and Central Groove on the Dewersone also stand out.
AJM
Gotta be something on Lundy, but it was all so nice that I can't pick one. Walrus was lovely, looked a lot harder than it is, just felt lovely when you were on it. Enjoyed the stuff on the Slide, and the stuff on Flying Buttress, really liked Horseman's Route, just about everything was great, and the weather was amazing as well.
Earlier on in the summer, Domes de Miage in the Alps and Central Groove on the Dewersone also stand out.
AJM
In reply to Owen W-G:
<hijack>Was there 31st Aug-10th Sept - that fit? Have looked at the profile data and the thread, and a guy from Dorset who did Indy 500 as a first E1 is beginning to ring a bell...........</hijack>
AJM
<hijack>Was there 31st Aug-10th Sept - that fit? Have looked at the profile data and the thread, and a guy from Dorset who did Indy 500 as a first E1 is beginning to ring a bell...........</hijack>
AJM
In reply to Fiend:
Wrong i on-sight soloed HVS earlier that day, and one later on!
> So, congratulations on your first "HVS"....
Wrong i on-sight soloed HVS earlier that day, and one later on!
In reply to JonC:
best route: the needle on shelterstone
best experience, the fear on the sydney sea cliffs, would easily get E2 in the UK and gets 17 (VS) in oz.
best route: the needle on shelterstone
best experience, the fear on the sydney sea cliffs, would easily get E2 in the UK and gets 17 (VS) in oz.
In reply to JonC:
Didn't get much done this summer, but Prophecy of Drowning was definately the highlight, closely followed by The Fhidhleir Nose..gotta have a NW route in there!
Didn't get much done this summer, but Prophecy of Drowning was definately the highlight, closely followed by The Fhidhleir Nose..gotta have a NW route in there!
In reply to JonC: Crack 1, Original route, A climb and crack and corner were all brilliant.
I didn't enjoy weasels rip my flesh so much!
I didn't enjoy weasels rip my flesh so much!
In reply to John Alcock:
Nice one John, good route!
Next time I go to Red Rocks I'm going to make a concerted effort not to dislocate my shoulder on my second day and I might then manage to get it done. Very high up my world wide 'to do' list
> Epinephrine, Red Rocks
Nice one John, good route!
Next time I go to Red Rocks I'm going to make a concerted effort not to dislocate my shoulder on my second day and I might then manage to get it done. Very high up my world wide 'to do' list
In reply to JonC:
A pretty crap year for weather, work, family and other reasons but among the more enjoyable highlights were:
Spectre on the Grochan; after having been dragged up up it in my youth we did it on a glorious hot day in August. The carnivorous crack was nearly as desperate as I remembered it, but the scariest bit was without doubt what is now the shared final pitch of Nea! How do budding VS leaders get up this?
On grit there a few nice evenings at Stanage and Fina stood out for quality.
Thanks to the OAC for introducing us to Trowbarrow and, in particular, Cracked Actor - a class pitch that's easily good enough to be in Pembroke.
And an honourable mention for Caseg Ffraith Arete, which is obviously considered piss easy in bouldering terms but was quite bold enough for me on first acquaintance and on my own with my old skool micro-Metolius mat. Very elegant.
A pretty crap year for weather, work, family and other reasons but among the more enjoyable highlights were:
Spectre on the Grochan; after having been dragged up up it in my youth we did it on a glorious hot day in August. The carnivorous crack was nearly as desperate as I remembered it, but the scariest bit was without doubt what is now the shared final pitch of Nea! How do budding VS leaders get up this?
On grit there a few nice evenings at Stanage and Fina stood out for quality.
Thanks to the OAC for introducing us to Trowbarrow and, in particular, Cracked Actor - a class pitch that's easily good enough to be in Pembroke.
And an honourable mention for Caseg Ffraith Arete, which is obviously considered piss easy in bouldering terms but was quite bold enough for me on first acquaintance and on my own with my old skool micro-Metolius mat. Very elegant.
In reply to JonC:
Got to be Inbred on Creag Dubh - my first HVS multipitch, and bloody scary. I'm suprised no one has mentioned it yet.
Flying Buttress Direct and Left Unconquerable onsights have to be close seconds.
Got to be Inbred on Creag Dubh - my first HVS multipitch, and bloody scary. I'm suprised no one has mentioned it yet.
Flying Buttress Direct and Left Unconquerable onsights have to be close seconds.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Ditto.
Actually, ditto re Fina too - as in one of my more interesting leads this summer. What a great little climb. I found this quite hard I'll admit but it packs in a few interesting moves and whilst not being exactly bold it doesn't feel too laced with pro either.
> A pretty crap year for weather, work, family and other reasons
Ditto.
Actually, ditto re Fina too - as in one of my more interesting leads this summer. What a great little climb. I found this quite hard I'll admit but it packs in a few interesting moves and whilst not being exactly bold it doesn't feel too laced with pro either.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Hmmmm... I did this a few years back and it doesn't standout in my mind at all. Is it really that hard?
> but the scariest bit was without doubt what is now the shared final pitch of Nea! How do budding VS leaders get up this?
Hmmmm... I did this a few years back and it doesn't standout in my mind at all. Is it really that hard?
In reply to JonC:
Another one that sticks in the mind is Mulligan Mania (HS) at Peak Scar - a 10 pitch girdle traverse - even though much of it is pretty chossy, and we cut it short after 7 pitches as we had to be elsewhere. The first section in particular is exposed and exciting - though well protected, there's a constant worry that if you weight the gear it'll pull half the crag down on top of you!
Another one that sticks in the mind is Mulligan Mania (HS) at Peak Scar - a 10 pitch girdle traverse - even though much of it is pretty chossy, and we cut it short after 7 pitches as we had to be elsewhere. The first section in particular is exposed and exciting - though well protected, there's a constant worry that if you weight the gear it'll pull half the crag down on top of you!
In reply to JonC:
Mousetrap at Gogarth.. (First Ascent of the Season, (After the Bird Ban))
Amazing Route on very commiting rock.
Mousetrap at Gogarth.. (First Ascent of the Season, (After the Bird Ban))
Amazing Route on very commiting rock.
In reply to JonC:
Probably a new route I did with BenP in Fairy Caves - it's great. Everyone should climb it.
Probably a new route I did with BenP in Fairy Caves - it's great. Everyone should climb it.
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