UKC

Looking to make a trip down to Cheddar in the next 4 or 5 weeks. A simple question about CS - how do you get down?! You don't have to ab down 6 pitches do you? Or is there a nice path?

Also, while I'm at it, how do people find it? Hard/easy for the grade? I don't know why but I have this image that it might be a bit graunchy. Also, how conditions-dependent is it likely to be?

In reply to Owen W-G: Walk off the top, either all the way down to Cheddar village, or down a slidey path by Acid rock.

The shield tarverse felt 5b now a big chunk is missing, and the top pitch is a sustained chimney graunch as you suspected. E1 is fair though.

Top tip: don't do it in full sunshine on a summers day having drunk complimentary cider before hand.....

In reply to Owen W-G:

I found it spot on for the grade and fully worth its ***. There is a long, easy path off - trainers are a good idea !

In reply to Owen W-G:

well, its that graunchy/slimey inland limestone and quite sustained, Great position though. Defo E1

Top tip - Start early - we didnt and i ended up leading the top pitch (HVS) in the dark with out a head torch - and finding the desent in the dark was very interesting!!

In reply to Owen W-G: Looking at your log book, you won't find it too graunchy.

You don't really want to be doing it in the wet. The middle bit may stay dry at the start of a wet spell, but the last pitch gets very slippery. (Trust me on this one).

The path down through the bushes can be tricky to find and follow in the dark. If it's getting late, consider walking to the "lighthouse" above the show caves and descending the stairs from there.

In reply to The Pylon King:

Ditto - top two pitches actually!

In reply to Owen W-G: Well, on my first try, it was very damp, we thought "E1, ought to be ok." Not recommended - we abbed after 2.5 pitches. Went back later in the dry - probably the best E1 I've ever climbed.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Walk down into Cheddar and get yourself some chips.

Oh, and don't forget to moon the bus.

In reply to ally smith:

The top pitch is a chimney? When did that happen?! Exposed open face-climbing as I remember.

In reply to Owen W-G:

I've done it twice, first time with a none too competent second, I had to do all the leading, took ages changing belays and messing about, the whole climb was an ordeal,took about 7 hours and finished in the dark and drizzle...second time did it in 2 hrs 55 mins leading through...on the whole it is a slog, cold, clammy, slippery in places, the shield is the psychological crux...it has to be done though...

In reply to Owen W-G: I have done this climb around five or six times over the course of my climbing career and rate it the best E1 in the country (I have done a lot of E1's) But to describe the main pitch as a 'sustained chimney graunch' is a complete no-no. The top pitch for a start, as has been said, is a short wall. The main (crux) pitch before this is sustained bridging up a wide groove (not a chimney) Easy if you use your feet and your brain, but not so if you do try to thrutch it. I have done the route twice since a bit of the shield went and I actually think it is no harder and maybe easier than before.

There is a hard move on the so-called 5a pitch below, which I think is every bit as hard as anything else on the route. Overall I would put it top end E1 as I think an old graded list did. The whole route is showing signs of the numerous ascents by displaying much more polish these days. Enjoy. It's a great experience.

In reply to Pete:

Good to hear from someone who has done it before and after the block on the shield fell off. I did it when the block was still there and I thought the move round it the hardest part of the traverse so I imagined that pitch to be a bit easier with it gone. Won't change the overall grade of the route as that isn't the hardest pitch though might make it a little less fun.

Absolutely top class route.

In reply to Owen W-G:
Quite a good link to climbing Corrie with a great photo of the route:
http://www.willerup.com/climbing/cstreet.html

Its a great outing.

Enjoy!

In reply to Owen W-G:

I also plan to do this route soon. Trouble is, I think it is a little bit scary for a 9 metre maximum sport climber!

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer: You are right. It will be scary for a 9 metre maximum sport climber, but it will certainly broaden your horizons!

In reply to Owen W-G:
as everyone says fantastic route. we opted for the chossy slippery path ish route down through the shrubbery to the right, worth carrying some trainers. when you hit the fence there is a gate cut to the left.

In reply to Owen W-G:
Did it 2 years ago, 2 months before my 50th!
A superb expedition and correctly graded. 1st two pitches can be run together easily (and logically). Thin move on P3 but short lived. Shield pitch airy but fine, probably easier now the block has gone - managed to heel-hook it and place more gear! P5 brigding and a bit of jamming, P6 slabby. Walk off behind top belay tree and right. Rock shoes were a bit slippery!
Start early, preferably not on a weekend - we did it on a Friday in Feb and had the place to ourselves. Wrap up warm!

Thanks everyone for some top advice - well looking forward to it now!