UKC

A page for your appreciation and comments on BUSA 2007

In reply to Matt Maynard: Yeah it was a good day! Any idea what the results were?

In reply to LMB: they normally come out in excel format on the busa website a week later i think mate

In reply to Matt Maynard:
even more awsome because Sheffield won the team comp, got 1st in the ladies and 2nd and 3rd in the blokes!
(even better I still have one of the bouldering mats in my car boot as Lilly who won it came on her bike!)
I think we could cope with a return to the works next year!

In reply to Katie Weston: Thats awesome. Who was it? Lisa, Will and someone else?

In reply to Matt Maynard:

So much better than last year's hour long queuing sessions...

In reply to Oli:
No the union actually areed to pay for a team this so we entered the best climbers in uni rather than in the club! The 2nd team was club climbers though, Lex, Will and Katy V. They also did pretty well we reckon.
Winning team was Lilly, Ned and Dan (Ned is sponsored by 5:10 so you could say we had strong hopes going in to the comp!)

Just a pity we can't get Rich Simpson to do it as he does actually attend sheffield uni!

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In reply to Matt Maynard:

My uni is so gash (Edinburgh),no one entered! Maybee next year.

In reply to Matt Maynard:
Would have been nice if they got the local unis more involved in helping out. apparently Hallam were thanked for stepping in at last minute, no one had actually asked us at sheffield for help!
Maybe some sort of home hospitality scheme woudl be nice for people who need somewhere to stay. The works is accessible from public transport for both sheffield Universities, rather thn have people staying in hotels why not et people staying with members from the local clubs?
It wouldn't work with every wall if they do move next year but would with the works, and who knows, some people might get a trip climbing in the Peak out of it!

In reply to Katie Weston:

I'm fairly sure Rich doesn't attend sheffield atm, your first team looked like they were holding up fairly well without him...

In reply to necromancer85:
Might be our chairman was mistaken then as that was what he told me! He'd have to fight it out for a place in the first team though!
To be honest this sort of result could have happened more often if only the union would have paid our entry fees, the club didn't see why we should pay for non-club members to compete out of club money!

anyway back on track, from what I saw and heard it was well organised, and teh 3 groups worked really well instead of the rugby scrum of previous years!

In reply to Matt Maynard:

appart from those in the last group who got all the slimey holds and shiny foot holds.

gd laff tho looking out for the results...

In reply to Matt Maynard: It was indeed a very good day, even though skin problems got the better of me again and by the second hour every single hold hurt to pull on to. Still, nice to see enthusiasm, mates old and new, and ned beasting up everything!

In reply to kmackenzie:
Didn't hear any complaints from the last guy in our 2nd team (but he likes to just get on with things!), I thought the purpose behind 1 member in each round was so overall all the teams were equal ie. one got the best conditions, and 1 got the worst.

In reply to kmackenzie:

I went in the first group for my team.... the footholds were shiny anyway! There were a load of brushes kicking about that could be used so not that bad I didn't think.

Liked the 3 splits though overall, a definite improvement on last year at craggy island. Think having the comp further north was a good idea as it wasn't such a mission for the scottish uni's to come down.

I thought the climbingworks was an awesome venue. Anyone that goes there regularly would have known all the holds in the circuits area because they weren't changed for the comp, but they were all pretty flashable even without prior knowledge. All the routes on the comps wall were brand new though and 'king 'ard!

In reply to Matt Maynard:
I think my uni came second? Bangor....

In reply to Ferrito:

Umm yeah, think they did, and Gemma came 2nd in the individual women's.

The first time my uni entered and we all loved it even though we didnt actually win anything (except for the sad b*****d award) and though the climbing works was amazing.
Everyone in good spirits and enjoying climbing, thats what its all about!

In reply to Matt Maynard:

It was a very good event. I was a judge (not being a student) and thought the problems were very good. Some of the hardest problems were utterly nails though! There were 3 or 4 that were utterly desperate. The grade range seemed to work well though, with lots of easy problems and then some very hard ones to sort the top competitors.

In reply to Monk:
Some sorted them out too well, our (sheff uni) judges had the misfortune to be on one of the problems that even the top males couldn't do!

In reply to Matt Maynard: Was a really good day, climbing works was awesome. Went some odd places in sheffield that night and then bouldered the next day at Curbar. Great weekend

In reply to andy_b135:
http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=6153
http://www.climbingworks.com/Html/Climbing-Works-News-And-Offers.htm

In reply to Matt Maynard: My uni pulled out, what the was the range of grades like??? The uni pulled out because they thought the grades would be to hard. Pretty poor, there were a group of us well up for it, the climbing works looks pretty sweet.

In reply to mike_r_c:

The grades ranged from english 4c to about 5c in the first 18 problems then there were 7 more problems from about V2 to V10 (? - guessing here as I couldn't do the hardest 3 problems or even get close).

Not meaning to rub it in, but there would definitely have been something you could climb.

In reply to mike_r_c: There was a pre event info on the busa website regarding the grades.
I thought that the event was superb, great problems, well orgainised and at a great venue. There was also minimal queueing. I really hope that the comp is held there again next year since its by far the best venue for that kind of comp with so many competitors.

In reply to Katie Weston:

Why aren't they club members?

In reply to Katie Weston: years ago when Airlie was at SU they also had a team trials as she wasn't a club member (surprise, surprise) yet received a sporting bursary from the university for being a top climber. So they had trials at the Foundry. Others (Richard Bingham and possibly a Mr Croxall) also weren't in the club so did the trials. Sheffield swept the floor that year.

In reply to GraemeA at home: I think the team was Dan French, Rich Bingham, and Airlie. I was the judge. That year the club wasn't going to enter a team so Danny sorted out trials and got it all going.

Lots of the best climbers at Sheffield aren't members of the clubs as they don't want to get bogged down with novices etc and would rather go climbing. I was never an active member when I was at the uni.

Politics!

In reply to Monk:

Actually, maybe it wasn't Dan, there was another guy there too.... It was a long time ago and my memory is hazy.

In reply to Monk: Think you are right about it being Dan.

Sheffield always seemed haphazard about entering teams, one year they forgot to enter Rich Bingham, Mark Croxall and Jimbo Kimber who turned up at WICC. Mike Brightwell wouldn't let them enter officially so they were up until about 6 drinking whisky with me and the guy who ran the wall. They did all the problems next day and would have won easily, I've got some ace photos of them all in red and white body paint, must dig them out and get them scanned.

The facilty was pretty good, not as good as all the hype around it. But the best place to have the comp over the last three years, much more suitable than Craggy, and Awesome walls.

The majority of the foot holds were in a shocking condition, but the routes were good.

The new rules to the comp worked alot better than I expected, so credit to the organisers for introducing the new stipulations.

Also impressed with the route setters 'tab' on food, very good idea.

Had an awesome weekend!