UKC

Thing On A Spring

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
AndiT 12 Jun 2001
I can't believe how fast news can travel! The route was only done 14 hours ago!

I climbed TOAS on lead after top rope practice (about 50 attempts in total) and after hanging the hold 4 or 5 times out of the 50 I went for the lead, placing the gear the same as on the first ascent. (i.e a friend in the low horizontal break of the swan, and nuts in the bow shaped cracks).

I took 2 practice falls from the ledge to work out my landing, and three falls going for it before finally getting the hold and finishing the route! The gear is good but the fall is quite harsh requiring the best of belayers!
 andy 12 Jun 2001
In reply to AndiT: Good effort, Andi - we were looking at it on Sunday and it looks awesome. There was a tiny chalked dink, I guess for your left hand - is this the hold you do the dyno off, or do you go all the way from the lower holds.
AndiT 12 Jun 2001
In reply to andy:
You go from the low holds, it is out of balance and takes some getting used to. You have to dyno from a position where your hands are lower than your waist (and holding you on rather than pulling you up).
 andy 12 Jun 2001
In reply to AndiT: Blimey - even better effort!
john 12 Jun 2001
In reply to AndiT:

Good effort - looked totally desperate
OP PaulJ 12 Jun 2001
In reply to AndiT:

Is that the first time its been repeated mate....??

What grade is it.....?...its a Dawes creation right...??

PaulJ
Jon Read 12 Jun 2001
Andi - congratulations! same grade again?

PualJ - Nadin testpiece from the 80s, only one other repeat (by Kevin Thaw) before a pebble came off, since when it has lain dormant.

So, whose going to do Against The Grain?
 Dave Garnett 12 Jun 2001
In reply to Jon Read: ...and KP Nuts and Just for Today and A Little Peculiar ... and then things will be all tidy for my graded lists. Oh, and has anyone done Night of Lust (Ramshaw) yet?
Graham 12 Jun 2001
In reply to Dave Garnett:

I've done Night of Lust in Leicester a few times.

........ sorry, ........sorry,.......... ....I'll go and shoot meself.

G
Tom 12 Jun 2001
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Where's 'Night of Lust'?
Graham Mc 12 Jun 2001
In reply to Graham: You won't have to, I am going to get my gun now!
StuartM 12 Jun 2001
In reply to Jon Read:

I was talking to Gary Cooper on Saturday, he said he'd also done it prior to the Pebbles coming off. As for the move, played on it on Saturday and its about the wierdest dyno i've ever had a go at
Al Evans 12 Jun 2001
In reply to StuartM: Is that the Gary Cooper that did High Noon????
StuartM 12 Jun 2001
In reply to Al Evans: Its the Gary Cooper that can be found without fail at the Roaches (or occaisionaly Beeston Tor - if the weathers nice) every weekend, don't know about High Noon but he's certainly a fountain of knowledge as far as Staffs Grit is concerned
 Chris Fryer 12 Jun 2001
In reply to AndiT: You go from the low holds

Never thought I'd say this - you lanky get!!!
andy r 12 Jun 2001
In reply to Chris Fryer: you never thought you'd say "you lanky get!!" to big Andi T ???
i say that to him each time i see him!
 Chris Fryer 12 Jun 2001
In reply to andy r: I'm about as tall as he is, and people usually say it to me.
Gary 13 Jun 2001
In reply to Chris Fryer:
Chris you are a lanky git with a rather large belly these days.
Keep up with the crisps and pies diet.
GT
Al Evans 13 Jun 2001
In reply to StuartM: Not a film buff are you??
 Chris Fryer 13 Jun 2001
In reply to Gary: Welcome my friend to the show that never ends. Better than a short arse going bald!

Are you going to up the E grade Andi, or are you too modest for that?
OP Mitch 13 Jun 2001
In reply to Chris Fryer:
It's not like it's VERY dangerous?
 Chris Fryer 13 Jun 2001
In reply to Mitch: "the fall is quite harsh requiring the best of belayers" Sounds like the fall off some E7s or E8s, not that I would know as it all sounds a bit scary.
OP justin c 14 Jun 2001
In reply to AndiT: GOOD EFFORT MATE! it looks good on the video too!! i shall get it on the net after weekend for people too see.
andy is it 5c now the pebble has gone . . . he he

well done! ! !

ps im claiming AGAINST THE GRAIN soon. i will be there on sun afternoon.

just.
AndiT 14 Jun 2001
In reply to justin c: Not if I get there first mate! Oh, and 5c seems about right ; )
AndiT 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Chris Fryer:No, I think the E grade is about right, it represents the effort and exposure on the route well. The fall, although resonably large is certainly not life threatening just a little airy and requiring control to miss the ramp on the way down! E6 7a is the general consensus, poss 7b for the vertically challenged.
In reply to AndiT:

BTW, we've been sent pix (thanks, guys) - the crux one is now with the story, and the "preparatory" one is in the Photo Gallery under Rock Climbing.

Charles
StuartM 15 Jun 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor: Ltes be honest folks, its about time Andy got a haircut isn't it?? We've not seen such unkempt mops like that since the days of Alex Macintyre!
 Dave Garnett 15 Jun 2001
In reply to StuartM: That's right! I was trying to remember who he reminded me of. A bit like the youthful Moffat moptop, but much more like Dirty Alex.

He' d be lighter and more aerodynamic too, crucial on those 'contextual' holds.
AndiT 15 Jun 2001
In reply to Dave Garnett: Come on now guys, lets have less of the bitching! I noticed that the pair of you were starting to thin out on top a little bit these days.

The real reason for the hair was to tempt all the baby birds out the valkryrie nest, seeing how lushous and nest like my own barnitt was, they simply couldn't resist. Then they fell to there doom in pied piper stylee, and no longer distracted me with there constant squawking, whilst i was climbing the adjacent walls
StuartM 17 Jun 2001
In reply to AndiT: I'll let you off in that case!
New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...