UKC

I'm looking for a nice first vs to onsight,
I tried Bifur in Goblins Combe, but I had to use the tree and went slighlty the wrong way. I'd call it HS with the tree. I'm going to be in South Wales during teh summer but will also be in Llanberis for a while, I will be happy for anything

In reply to Protheroe: No, Bifur is VS with the tree. Start a new thread entitled nice second VS in south wales or llanberis or bristol area.

In reply to Protheroe: However if you would like another nice softtouch VS you could try Elrond at Owl rock in goblin.

In reply to Protheroe:

Try Elrond at Goblin. Go direct, don't do the half height traverse that looks easier but isn't. Good VS introduction.
Piton route at Avon is also a steady introduction, a few scary positions but there is gear where you need it.

In reply to mike kann: And when you're done with Elrond do Tree beard for a proper VS.

In reply to SC:

People back off of Piton Route. Out of all the Avon VSs OTTOMH then Clarion is quite friendly, but you probably want to be OK at slabs and runouts.

In reply to Protheroe:

For South Wales Scavenger at Three Cliffs would probably be quite nice. Very well protected start, then a nice exciting slab to finish.

In reply to Protheroe: Rob's crack at Fairy Cave Quarry in the Mendips is a nice VS

In reply to Paz: Wouldn't agree with that at all, mainly because the gear isn't exactly optimal... if you're new to VS's then the last place you want to be is runout over cack gear waiting to fall off!

In reply to mike kann:

It'd be bread and butter to anyone who's done any Gritstone slabs, let alone an Avon HS climber.

Why are you going to fall off when you're stood on big foot holds? If you don't trust your feet then from the gorge carry on straight down the Portway and through town to UCR.

The gear's alright. You don't have to trust any pegs like on Piton Route.

In reply to Protheroe:

Fisher's Folly on sheperds crag, Lakes.

Jim

In reply to Paz: Alright alright Jimbo, all I'm saying is that its maybe not as straightforwards as you might remember. Not everybodies bollocks are dragging on the ground you know

In reply to mike kann:

If you are preapred to go to tremadog I would regard Scratch as being at the bottom end of the grade. Although on the first pitch you have to look around a bit for protection but it is there.

Gary.

In reply to Protheroe: not exaclty soft touch but good gear and aweosme route : sabre cut, dinas mot

In reply to Protheroe:

What about Shorn cliff - State of independence was v good and soft..

or Western slabs on the Mot in the pass...

In reply to Matt Maynard:

Got to be kidding, not an ideal route by any stretch.

In reply to Protheroe: Blue Sky at Saddlehead is possibly the best VS in the land.
Others include:

Osiris and Isis at the Gower
Cadillac and Questor at Wyndcliffe
Freedom and Butterfly (both fairly stiff for the grade) at Wintour's Leap
Exchange and Whitt at Symonds Yat
Most of the VS climbs at Goblin Combe are good value.

Some of the other previously mentioned are also good outings.

In reply to Protheroe: Piton route has a definite crux, it's polished and harder for the short but protected I think and not in a pumpy position.

Unknown Wall is a good VS, not a soft touch, has two 4c pitches I think and I rested once while seconding it ages ago (had an off day) but it's not that hard. I'll climb it with you during boot camp if you like?

At Goblin, Elrond has a more serious start and you've seconded it before anyway but you could on-sight Treebeard, and it's got fine gear.

So, it's Unknown Wall or Treebeard from me.

See you soon,

Doug

In reply to Protheroe:

Wouldn't personally recommend Elrond as your "first" (Bifur is supposedly VS, it's just soft). Nor Rob's Crack, nice climb but didn't find it that easy myself...although I don't like cracks.

Treebeard on the other hand is brilliant, State of Independance was good, Exchange was nice and soft. Avoid Necromancer at Goblin, all the other VSs are nice but that's a horror.

In reply to Protheroe: Thank you every one. I was going to say Doug, treebeard sounded good when u mentioned it in the vaults. Defenetly spending time in the Mot

In reply to Protheroe:
Not this one:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=46279

unless you have tiny pro and like run-outs.

Ade

In reply to Protheroe: wwww dirty and polished, everyones favorite, and not much gear

In reply to Protheroe:
Yep, nicely sandbagged I was!