UKC

Macnamara is dead helpful in giving the best routes to do to train up for the Nose in the US - but if you cant train in the US - what would the UK equivalent regime be??

1. Do all Stanage 3 star hvs - E2s in a day.
2. Do an Extreme on the Mot, Cryn Las, Cloggy in a day
3. Do the Kimm - A class or above
4. Do two classic crack routes of HVS or above on Stanage, Burbage North + South, Higgar, Frogatt and Curbar.
5. Jugging at Horseshoe twice a day during January to May.

Any other offers?

In reply to robw007:

Kilnsey Main Overhang then Alum Pot in an afternoon.

The Ent

In reply to robw007:

There is NOTHING in the UK that can prepare you for this:

http://www.pitoni.fi/nose2007/

Play the slideshow....

From UKCer: Eetu

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=25446

In reply to Enty:
Hmm - have done the main overhang - not the same deal really!
Alum Pot is a good call - SPT Caving is probably alot nearer to big walling - and both in a day would be a good one.

In reply to robw007: Simon Lee's your man. Loads of routes at Millstone continuously was his thing.

In reply to robw007:


Very easy compared to your other suggestions.

In reply to ChrisJD:
Excellent gallery Eetu

In reply to Mick B:

Thanks for the big up but it didnt work

I climbed at by best in Yosemite when I had been there 5 weeks. There first four weeks involved being royally kicked up the backside with the final week being one of the best week's climbing of my life.

If youve got the time spend two months out there. Its so beautiful and inspiring even with the tourist trappings and it well get you used to the climbing.

In reply to Simon Lee:
Si - visited a few times and totally agree. However I/we no longer have the time to spend out there getting knarly enough - will have to do it at home.
Was looking for an informed list of UK equivalent fun/stupid things to do to try and get hard enough.
Did Half Dome a couple of years ago and realise its going to be somewhat tougher!

In reply to robw007:

I worked up to doing 30 routes at Millstone in a day which I reckoned was the nearest best. Also jumaring is best practiced on off vertical walls as the style of getting the speed up is diffrent to free-hanging jumaring. The Hans Florine book Speed Climbing is really useful as it gives a pitch by pitch breakdown (can lend you my copy if you want). Soloing loads of routes on grit whilst not to be encouraged does give you milegae and confidence.

In reply to robw007:

All the Peak Hard Rock ticks in a weekend.

In reply to robw007: Aid a less-than-vertical crack in a good time.

Haul a big bag up some slabby rock.

Rig up a bivvy on a small ledge and sleep there on a wet night.

HTH

In reply to ChrisJD:
In a weekend???? Should really be a day, its been done on mtbs in a day

In reply to robw007:

Your plan is good for building stamina for free parts.

The main slowing thing is aiding if you're not used ot it. Find some long mountain cracks at just off-vertical and try to do 7-10 pitches a day on pure (clean) aid for a weekend, with a pig full of ~75-100Kg rocks/water. This will also tell you if your footwear is comfortable enough to withstand standing in slings for hours on end.

Some of the rope moves need a bit of practise/thought as well to do them safely, fast and without losing gear.

McNamara's routes are a build up sequence - starting with an easyish day and finishing with multiday.

So probably something like:

1. A weekend in a quarry learning the basics of aid on single pitch
2. An evening packing the food water and kit you need into the pig to ensure it fits and you know how much it weighs. 3. A weekend in a quarry splitting the pitch and hauling a bag, to get the changeovers and belay organisation sorted
4. Two weekends on multipitch cracks building speed/stamina
5. A weekend practising rope moves
6. A weekend in north wales (on account of reliable rain!) overnighting on a ledge

Please don't forget to take storm gear on the Nose.

J

In reply to robw007:

I thought the traditional approach of digging 25 metres of ditch per day for six months was now accepted as the way to go?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Nice link to Eetu's pictures. I couldn't see one of the Lynn Hill Changing Corners pitch, though. Is that because there isn't one, or because I didn't recognise it?

jcm

In reply to robw007:

If you have plans to travel to the Yosemite, The Nose isn't the route I'd recommend. In addition to it's incredible popularity there have apparently been changes to the route's conditions.
I'd suggest checking related threads at Supertopo if you haven't already or inquiring what changes have taken place.

Me? I'd go for Zodiak.
It's also very popular but.....have a look; you'll see and possibly agree.
If you're very experienced The Shield is the ticket.

In reply to Mystery Toad: What about Salethe?

In reply to robw007:

Have you seen this?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=143

Train for the things you found hardest about Half Dome,allowing for more aid-climbing on The Nose. It might be useful to practice moving from aid to free, it’s too easy to find yourself having spent half-an-hour aiding 25’ of HVS. Your regime is light on crack-climbing and lacking in wide cracks. There are no long stretches of wide on The Nose but they can take a disproportionate amount of time and energy. Simon’s completely right about there being no substitute for 4 weeks of the real thing, but the Curbar wide crack circuit could be one stage on the road:

Flake Crack 5.6
Keeper’s Crack 5.6
Buckle’s Brother 5.7
Buckle’s Crack 5.7
Sorrel’s Sorrow 5.8
Hercules 5.8 (no laybacking, obviously)
Inch Crack 5.8
Little Innominate 5.8+
Peapod 5.9
Left Eliminate 5.9
Elder Crack 5.9
Right Eliminate 5.9+

The Nose slide-show is great, I'd not seen that before.

In reply to duncan:

Isn't there another Buckle? A sister, maybe?

Who was Buckle, anyway? Not the Victorian historian, I don't suppose.

jcm

In reply to Mystery Toad:
Empathy for your message - the Shield looks A-mazing! However we all want to have a crack at the Nose.

Some really useful comments here - didn't really set up the thread with specific info in mind but thanks anyway! More of a tongue-in-cheek/semi serious UK equivalent of working up to the Nose.

In reply to robw007: