Sabine Bacher from Austria and Lucinda Hughes of Sheffield both climbed Brad Pit V10....Font 7c+ at the Stanage Plantation Boulders in the Peak District this week.
The way Myers did it in the mid 90's dynoing for the jug without getting his foot up onto the starting hold it is now thought to be Font 8b. The way the second ascent was done by Marc le Menestrel and 3rd ascent by Moon by getting the left toe up onto the starting hold is easier than 8b but I don't know the grade of this method. (It is given B13 in the Rockfax but this could mean anything!) Most subsequent ascents have been made by putting the left heel up onto the starting hold at the current grade of Font 7c+. This appears to be significantly easier than using the left toe to do the move as per Moon/ Hard Grit.
In reply to Glyn Jones: Yeah font. The capital 'C' in 7C, 7C+, etc. denote it as a font bouldering grade as opposed to a french route grade which would have the 'c' as lower case.
In reply to teddy: I thought marc minstrel had the vision with the crucial heel and did it in a couple of go's which was pretty special at the time? but he actually used the harder toe method?
Yes I believe Marc did it with a rockover using the toe on his second go. All the details are in OTE May 1997, the one with Moon on the front cover doing BP. Ben describes how to do the problem saying he watched Marc put his left foot by his left hand. I think it was only a few years later that the heel method came into existence. I don't know who first did it this way I just remember hearing it on the grapevine somewhere!
Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...