In reply to Duncan_S:
There is a lot of dead stuff and loose rock at the top crag, but this can be cleared. I've removed some large boulders from the more left buttresses already. Some of the routes have become to vegetated to top out, I thought it could be an adventure to lead with shears and a saw and clear them up.
I don't think the amount of loose rock is excessive on the existing routes I've done so far, some have a fair bit at the top, but just myself and a second managed to remove much of it. I do agree there is no need for bolted lower offs as there are plenty of belays up top and the static rope and krabs above abby wall I've left should make abseiling easier. Unless of course you make sport routes.....
I'm not just going to do it and ignore others opinions, but am interested. If the place is worthwhile and deserves not to be bolted, then why have many existing routes been allowed to become unclimbable and nothing added past E1? It would be the steeper routes that would stay cleaner and have no loose rock on.
Bolting all limestone is not ok, if there are existing routes then they should be kept in honour of their first ascents, if they can be safely protected with trad gear then they should not be bolted, but if nobody has bothered with them since the 60's then maybe bolts should be allowed? It is beautifully situated and a fall from 3m, let alone 10m can be far enough that you don't walk away. Would anybody bother with Horseshoe if you had to climb it trad?
Haven't got any pics yet, will take a camera up next time I go. I will also clear enough dead wood out the way that a top rope can be rigged to climb some of these lines until I can get a better idea of how people feel.
I'll also use this thread to keep people updated on what I've cleaned.
So far
Abby Wall 14m VD - Removed loose rock and dirt, care still needed after toping out.
Cogden Crack 13m MS - Removed loose rock and dirt, care still needed after toping out
Chalk Crack 13m VS 4b - Removed loose rock, still quiet a lot of dirt and pebbles in the crack
Also found a buttress after Hale with no recorded routes on, but easy climbs, have done one about Diff/VDiff, removed lots of loose rock, but still some at the top.