UKC

I searched but found no threads about this since the review in Jan so, having started reading my copy last night, I wondered what others who've read it think. From flicking through, the factual stuff about gear etc seems very good and just what I need as someone still learning to lead and hoping to progress, but when I started reading from the beginning I found I had my reservations about some of the text bits and the way they were written (and one bit about Mountain Rescue that I need to check because I think it's wrong). What do you think?

Cat

In reply to freerangecat:

Has anyone else read it?

In reply to freerangecat: Yep read it but was only marginally impressed. I much prefer the SPSA one (I forget who the woman is who wrote it), clearer diagrams, more matter-of-fact text.

In reply to Clarence:
Libby Peters

Excellent book.

In reply to freerangecat:
I've read it, and written a review of it for the Scottish Mountaineer.(MCofS magazine)

In reply to freerangecat:


I seem to recall when I read it that there was a bit that said to call 999 and ask for Mountain Rescue, which I though was wrong as AFAIK you're meant to call the police. But when I flicked through it again I couldn't find where I'd read it so I didn't bring it up in case I'd imagined it. Is that what you mean?

In reply to freerangecat:

I've read this and take it to show any beginners I climb with. I thought the diagrams for gear placement and fall factor were excellent. Thought this was a very readable book as some others I've tend to be a bit stodgy.

In reply to Clarence:

I've got the other book too, and much prefer it's text, but think the rockfax one has better gear descriptions and things like that. I was quite cross by the time I'd got to the end of the intro and 'starting out' chapter, what you said about the text being less 'matter of fact' matches my feelings precisely. The rockfax book is very opinionated, fairly patronising in places, I don't agree with what they said on use of helmets. To the best of my knowledge they were wrong in saying that for MRT you ring 999 and ask for Mountain Rescue, I understood that you asked for the Police, who then sorted things with Mountain Rescue. I was generally disappointed (the other chapters may redeem the book, but I doubt it)

Cat

In reply to climbingpixie:

Yep, I saw the same as you about MRT

In reply to freerangecat:

Yup, also saw and picked up on that.
Ask for Police, then once through to the police controllers, *then* ask for MR

Every other guidebook I've seen has it correct though

In reply to Hanzler666:
I thought the diagrams for gear placement and fall factor were excellent.

No arguments there, its why my b/f got me the book, and why on initial flicking through we both liked it.

Thought this was a very readable book as some others I've tend to be a bit stodgy.

It is readable, but...

In reply to Caralynr:

Glad I've learned something useful from UKC, not that I hope to ever need the knowledge!

In reply to freerangecat:

Out of interest, what do you disagree with about helmets and what did you find patronising? I've not read the Libby Peters book but have always had it down as more of a text book on purely safety matters whereas trad+ is a bit of safety stuff incorporated into a bunch of stuff on how to improve at trad, particularly for those new-ish to it...

In reply to abarro81:

I disagreed with the over-emphasais (I felt) on why people choose not to wear helmets, whereas I was getting the impression (partly from on here) that people are going towards the idea of wearing helmets all the time when leading/belaying trad. I would have hoped that an instructional book aimed, in part, at beginners would encourage people towards helmet use, saying that they were getting lighter and more comfy rather than that many people find them hot and uncomfortable and that they obscure their vision. Yes, thay gave both sides of the story, but I felt they over-emphasised the negatives, which, given that the rest of the sections I read were far from impartial, was wrong.

Patronising... the comments on keeping yourself safe rather than relying on rescue etc, and on not making a nusciance at crags or sueing a landowner if you hurt yourself, because it would jeapordise access to crags. I'd hope most of us wouldn't be stupid enough to sue a landowner for broken ankles, or even necks, and those that were wouldn't have their opinions changed by a book!

In reply to Caralynr:

Do the 999 operatives not just explain that to you and put you through to the Police anyway?

Not saying that we shouldn't know the right procedure, just curious as I've not had to call MR out.

Yet.

Si

In reply to freerangecat:
hmm.. I think that section is fine - gives both sides of the argument nicely.

In reply to abarro81:

I think we'll have to agree to disagree there- gender thing maybe, or who taught you to climb. I'm not a fully paid up member of the 'wear helmets all the time outside' police, but I do myself, and think it should be encouraged in beginners. Once you get to leading E6 you're experienced/mad enough to choose not wear a helmet if you like!

Cat

In reply to abarro81:

What about the accidents and access bits?

In reply to freerangecat:
I don't find that patronising, but I guess thats an individual thing...

In reply to freerangecat:

I recieved this book for my birthday today and so far from what I have flicked through it seems pretty good. It clearly demonstrates some areas that I feel I am weak in so I am very happy with it.

In reply to freerangecat: i think its a great book, simple, easing you into trad climbing, and providing some quality information. i especially liked the sections on the mind, most other books are more factual, and dont go into that kind of area. a great read. but its always good to read others and compare them to each other.

In reply to telemarker:

I agree fully, thats why I got it, and why I'll keep reading it, but I still don't like some of what it says.

In reply to freerangecat:

Thats fair enough, I am sure I will find bits that I dont like once i get into it. I would be amazed if everyone liked every bit of a book produced on a sport like climbing.

In reply to freerangecat:

Thanks for the excellent feedback in this thread. Generally I think there are some interesting and useful comments in there.

If there are any specific issues that people wish to ask then I'd be happy to answer them.

Alan
Rockfax