UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: not moaning or anything but news on ukc is a bit slow at the moment, this was reported on 8a a couple of days ago now :P

In reply to sihills:

Seems 8a.nu missed out Bracey and Helliker on Alaska's Moose's Tooth and Onsight fever hits North Wales - E8 attempts and McHaffie on Madagascan Mega-Route 8c+.

Wassup wid dat?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: ill give you the mchaffie one, but 8a tend to put stories on people actually getting up routes, not trying to and falling of, Alot of respect to the belgians but making the news for ATTEMPTING to onsight an E8 opposed to onsighting an E8 is slightly different, I could quite happily give it a go and fall off, lots of climbers in the country capable of that, grrr you got me on one now.

In reply to sihills:
Actually, I'm far more interested in people trying to onsight Nightmayer than euro-wads doing new 9as..

In reply to sihills:

8a is a sport/bouldering climbing website we are a climbing website. There's a big difference.


True.


Really - getting to the last moves onsight on an E8. I think not - let's hear about it then. I'm sure many are capable but there is a big difference between being capable and those who actually give it a go.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I know there completely different websites, just makes me giggle when ukc puts up BRAND NEW news that is a few days old.

As i said before lot of respect for the belgians for trying, but that is all they did try, they didnt actually onsight it.

Abarro if your only interested in trad then dont respond to a thread about a sports route no??

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: And i do believe there are alot of climbers capable in the uk, but as you say its the giving it a go and as we all know us brits are pussys, saying that you have just told the whole of the ukc that he fell from the top moves and didnt die, dont see why that wont encourage a few more people to give it a go.

In reply to sihills:

sihills - not everyone visits 8a.nu news on a daily basis. We have many thousands of readers at UKC with very wide tastes. Many haven't time to scour all the climbing websites, we pick the highlights for them, it is part of the service that we provide free of charge. We generate our own news reports and select news reports from other websites. If you've heard about the Markus Bock F9a why even comment. What is the point?

Further, we try to to include significant ascents worldwide on the UKC news page so that we have a record of them and can look back over the year at climbing achievements. The news page is searchable too - some visit two or three times a month and search the news.


But what a fine effort sihill. These guys aren't even Brits with our long tradition of traditional climbing, both onsight and headpoint. To get so far on solid E8 is quite some achievement and sets a great example. It is good solid news, part of Jack's reportage on the International meet and appreciated by many as a good story.



The same could be said to you... anyway the sun is out: get out climbing, I am soon.

Mick

In reply to sihills:

There you go, another good reason for running it.

Sometimes the only reason we run something is because it is inspirational.

In reply to sihills:
Where did I say I was only interested in trad?? All I'm saying is that reading about someone trying to onsight Nightmayer is interesting and a bit different, the problem with 8a.nu news is it's just a list of euro-wads ticking 9a, after a while it all just drifts into one..

In reply to sihills:
Blimey, two day old stories are old news now?

In reply to abarro81:

>All I'm saying is that reading about someone trying to onsight Nightmayer is interesting and a bit different, the problem with 8a.nu news is it's just a list of euro-wads ticking 9a, after a while it all just drifts into one..

Couldn't agree more.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Dear Mick,

I'm not an expert on Cromlech history but didn't Steve Mayers attempt to onsight 'Nightmayer' when he first tried it but couldn't do the final moves either so lowered off, ab'd the line to have a look at the top section and then sent in ground-up?

If so, and given that Nico (his full name is Nicolas Favresse if you're interested - www.nicolasfavresse.com) is a well established European climber operating many years later, isn't this just another example of what a machine Mayers was/is as Steve did exactly what Nico did but many years earlier?

Also, it's not true that Nico is some sport climber with no knowledge of trad onsighting or headpointing as you alluded to when you said to sihills that, "These guys aren't even Brits with our long tradition of traditional climbing, both onsight and headpoint" above - Nico recently did the second ascent of Didier Berthod's 'Greenspit' in Northern Italy, which is a nails trad roof crack. Check out Nico's website link above for details.

Cheers,

Al.

In reply to alabalackshaw:

I'm sure our editor, Jack, who wrote the news report:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=05&year=2008#n44259

will be able to check with Steve about the details of the first ascent.

In reply to alabalackshaw:
Well the guide says it was TRed before the first ascent.. but then that could be wrong. (On a pedantic note, you can't really do something ground up if you've abbed it to check it out..)

In reply to alabalackshaw: No, you're wrong.

Steve first abbed the line and didn't like the look of the gear. He then top-roped it to make sure he wouldn't take the fall on to the wire (that Nico ripped out). It was a long standing project and had been top-roped by various of Steve's contemporaries.

Steve is a machine though - you are correct on that point.

Both Nico and Sean are experienced climbers in all disciplines, and are both exceptional, however given that Nico tried to onsight Nightmayer on his first day of climbing in this country, and we don't have queues of visiting 9a climbers trying to onsight E8's - it is hardly surprising that we reported it.

I usually think to myself - "Am I interested in this?" if I am, then I report it as news. I was very interested in this and so were a lot of other people.

Great to see these routes getting the international attention they deserve.

Jack

To Mick:
These guys aren't even Brits with our long tradition of traditional climbing, both onsight and headpoint.

Do not forget that there are a lot of Chech/German climbers who do 'trad' on sandstone, where ethics are still at a very high standard- a higher standard than in the uk...

In reply to Arjen:

I haven't forgot nor do I forget the long tradition of traditional climbing, both onsight and headpoint in the USA too!!!!!