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In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Superb effort - where is the V10 crux, high or low?
I was wondering if something good would come out of the cold snap this week
Shame about the forecast this weekend...perhaps a sickie next week when it clears up again?!
Superb effort - where is the V10 crux, high or low?
I was wondering if something good would come out of the cold snap this week
Shame about the forecast this weekend...perhaps a sickie next week when it clears up again?!
Big up for Neil!
Saw him other week and climbing in extremely good form !
Saw him other week and climbing in extremely good form !
In reply to sutty:
Superb effort. Congratulations Neil.
Superb effort. Congratulations Neil.
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Top effort perhaps more significant that headpointing a poor eliminate, but sadly how long will it be for the sniping to start?
In reply to sutty:
Plenty of time .. he use it!
> (In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor)
> but what has he done on chalk?
> but what has he done on chalk?
Plenty of time .. he use it!
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Ah, I wondered whose the chalk marks on the arete were on sunday. Damn fine effort Mr Gresham!
Ah, I wondered whose the chalk marks on the arete were on sunday. Damn fine effort Mr Gresham!
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
A great effort indeed.
Suitably inspired, I will get myself along to Burbage South and finally crack the V Diff "project" that I failed on earlier this year.
A great effort indeed.
Suitably inspired, I will get myself along to Burbage South and finally crack the V Diff "project" that I failed on earlier this year.
In reply to l applat:
Not long.
So he's climbed an 8b, big deal. People are climbing 5 or 6 grades harder than that thesedays.
> but sadly how long will it be for the sniping to start?
Not long.
So he's climbed an 8b, big deal. People are climbing 5 or 6 grades harder than that thesedays.
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
I expect he'll be getting on some hard stuff once he's been on the coaching course with me in March....
I expect he'll be getting on some hard stuff once he's been on the coaching course with me in March....
In reply to Jon Read: Its about time Neil stopped fannying about on these boulder problems and worked my training programme out Well done Neil!
In reply to l applat:
About 2 hours. What's he ever on-sighted?
JAMIE B>
> how long will it be for the sniping to start?
About 2 hours. What's he ever on-sighted?
JAMIE B>
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Bloody Good Effort, Nice One Neil!!!
Is this really the first E10 to be repeated and the only one with a consensus (of two) grade of E10.
Does this make Equilibrium the ONLY E10 now that the grade has been confirmed?
Mick
Does this make Equilibrium the ONLY E10 now that the grade has been confirmed?
Mick
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Can anyone confirm that for us?
<presses finger to ear and gazes off into middle distance>
How long did he take on it?
oh! and my Congratulations to Mr Gresham
> Yes, it's the only confirmed E10.
Can anyone confirm that for us?
<presses finger to ear and gazes off into middle distance>
How long did he take on it?
oh! and my Congratulations to Mr Gresham
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
That's amazing.
It must be really difficult to repeat an E10. No kudos associated with a FA and all that.
Mick
> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA)
>
> Yes, it's the only confirmed E10.
>
> Yes, it's the only confirmed E10.
That's amazing.
It must be really difficult to repeat an E10. No kudos associated with a FA and all that.
Mick
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
I suspect that Seb Grieve got more kudos for the second repeat of Parthion Shot than the first ascensionist ever did, or Malcolm for the 3rd ascent of Careless Torque.
I suspect that Seb Grieve got more kudos for the second repeat of Parthion Shot than the first ascensionist ever did, or Malcolm for the 3rd ascent of Careless Torque.
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
Sarcasm aside, and from a mere climbing mag reading punter, it seems that there is kudos to be gained from some high profile second/third ascents. Whether Equilibrium comes into this category, who knows ? It probably hasn't been around long enough to build up a mystique or reputation.
To my mind, Neils repeat (2nd or 3rd) of Indian Face is an even more amazing achievement than either this or the repeat of Meshuga which probably deserved more recognition than it got.
Sarcasm aside, and from a mere climbing mag reading punter, it seems that there is kudos to be gained from some high profile second/third ascents. Whether Equilibrium comes into this category, who knows ? It probably hasn't been around long enough to build up a mystique or reputation.
To my mind, Neils repeat (2nd or 3rd) of Indian Face is an even more amazing achievement than either this or the repeat of Meshuga which probably deserved more recognition than it got.
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
For a start, the magazines putting the achievement into better historical context would have been good. Admitedly, Neil hasn't been short of magazine column inches in recent years but for that achievemnet on Indian Face ?
For a start, the magazines putting the achievement into better historical context would have been good. Admitedly, Neil hasn't been short of magazine column inches in recent years but for that achievemnet on Indian Face ?
In reply to GrahamD:
I think not only congratulations to Neil Gresham but also of course to Neil Bentley who know has his achievement confirmed....... at least the difficulty......it is a gorgeous line and excellent climbing I'm sure...that needs no confirmation.
Mick
I think not only congratulations to Neil Gresham but also of course to Neil Bentley who know has his achievement confirmed....... at least the difficulty......it is a gorgeous line and excellent climbing I'm sure...that needs no confirmation.
Mick
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
How about a Mt Rushmore type monumnet next to each hard grit route with the 1st, 2nd and 3rd ascentionists profiled in stone. Thats how they do it in the States isn't it?
> (In reply to GrahamD)
>
> How should recognition be expressed?
>
> Mick
>
> How should recognition be expressed?
>
> Mick
How about a Mt Rushmore type monumnet next to each hard grit route with the 1st, 2nd and 3rd ascentionists profiled in stone. Thats how they do it in the States isn't it?
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
Wasn't the difficulty already known and aknowledged by people trying it on a top rope ? There certainly didn't seem to be any challenge to the proposed grade of E10 that I saw when the route was first done (but I am only going by what the comics tell me). It certainly seemed that Neil Bentley was getting the plaudits for a genuine, undoubted E10 back then.
There are probably some other E10s where belated congratulations from the media may be more in order should they be confirmed.
Wasn't the difficulty already known and aknowledged by people trying it on a top rope ? There certainly didn't seem to be any challenge to the proposed grade of E10 that I saw when the route was first done (but I am only going by what the comics tell me). It certainly seemed that Neil Bentley was getting the plaudits for a genuine, undoubted E10 back then.
There are probably some other E10s where belated congratulations from the media may be more in order should they be confirmed.
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
Didn't Ben Moon claim the french grade to 8b+/8c on a top rope. This would equate to E8+/E9 if bolted so I don't think there is any doubt about it being E10
Didn't Ben Moon claim the french grade to 8b+/8c on a top rope. This would equate to E8+/E9 if bolted so I don't think there is any doubt about it being E10
In reply to Simon1000:
E - grades are rubbish for sport routes (well bolted rock climbs).
It's E10 because of the sustained technical difficulty and fall factor shurely.....and now it has been confirmed.
I think only someone who actually leads the "bolder" routes can offer an opinion, plus they've got to operate around that grade as well....E9.....and Gresham is well qualified in that respect.
Until it is confirmed by another climber of a similar experience....the grade is only 'claimed to be"
Mick
E - grades are rubbish for sport routes (well bolted rock climbs).
It's E10 because of the sustained technical difficulty and fall factor shurely.....and now it has been confirmed.
I think only someone who actually leads the "bolder" routes can offer an opinion, plus they've got to operate around that grade as well....E9.....and Gresham is well qualified in that respect.
Until it is confirmed by another climber of a similar experience....the grade is only 'claimed to be"
Mick
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
I've no doubt that a grade has to be confirmed by someone else actually leading the route. However, it does seem to be true that some routes only 'claimed to be' E10 are more readily accepted as such than others are.
I never saw any correspondance claiming that Equilibrium was anything other than E10. Seems to me that one or two of the others have been questioned (rightly or wrongly).
I've no doubt that a grade has to be confirmed by someone else actually leading the route. However, it does seem to be true that some routes only 'claimed to be' E10 are more readily accepted as such than others are.
I never saw any correspondance claiming that Equilibrium was anything other than E10. Seems to me that one or two of the others have been questioned (rightly or wrongly).
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
No shit Mick! The fact Ben Moon said it was F8B+/F8C on a top rope suggests to me that it has a few tricky moves. Could be wrong though.........
> It's E10 because of the sustained technical difficulty and fall factor shurely.....and now it has been confirmed.
No shit Mick! The fact Ben Moon said it was F8B+/F8C on a top rope suggests to me that it has a few tricky moves. Could be wrong though.........
In reply to Simon1000:
That's without a doubt.....but I said fall factor as well and Ben probably isn't in a position to judge between an E9 and an E10 lead on grit. Second you can't trust guestimates, even from experienced E9 climbers because of the axes that they may grind. And really you can't really trust the FA because they might be involved in marketing hype.
The only sure way to know is from a consensus of people who have led the route. The more the merrier.
M
That's without a doubt.....but I said fall factor as well and Ben probably isn't in a position to judge between an E9 and an E10 lead on grit. Second you can't trust guestimates, even from experienced E9 climbers because of the axes that they may grind. And really you can't really trust the FA because they might be involved in marketing hype.
The only sure way to know is from a consensus of people who have led the route. The more the merrier.
M
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
I had a couple of questions on E grades.
What will the E grade finally weigh in at when you can hit the ground if you blow the crux ?. What really is the difference between E9 6c and E10 6c if you can blow the crux and walk away ?.
Congrats also to Gresham on his repeat.
I had a couple of questions on E grades.
What will the E grade finally weigh in at when you can hit the ground if you blow the crux ?. What really is the difference between E9 6c and E10 6c if you can blow the crux and walk away ?.
Congrats also to Gresham on his repeat.
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: What about the Indian Face? I thought if you fell off the crux of that then you were on the deck and that gets E9.
In reply to Dave:
Aye, but that was done years ago. It's like inflation..
> (In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor) What about the Indian Face? I thought if you fell off the crux of that then you were on the deck and that gets E9.
Aye, but that was done years ago. It's like inflation..
In reply to anonymouse:
May have something to do with it being 5 sport grades harder on a top rope. Indian face is supposed to be 7b+ on a top rope whilst equilibrium is 8b. But if equilibrium was as dangerous would that would make it E14???
May have something to do with it being 5 sport grades harder on a top rope. Indian face is supposed to be 7b+ on a top rope whilst equilibrium is 8b. But if equilibrium was as dangerous would that would make it E14???
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
FA Neil Bentley
2A Neil Gresham,
Should it be renamed Neils arete?
FA Neil Bentley
2A Neil Gresham,
Should it be renamed Neils arete?
Well... I guess well done is in order... but compared to this it seems a bit lame:
Mark Edwards Summer round-up: Sennen (new E8); Hella Point (new E9); Penberth (3 new E7's and more); Bashers (2 new E6's, 1 new E5 and more) Javu.co.uk
If anyone can name another climber who's done that many new hard routes in the space of about 4 months I'll be supprised!
Mark Edwards Summer round-up: Sennen (new E8); Hella Point (new E9); Penberth (3 new E7's and more); Bashers (2 new E6's, 1 new E5 and more) Javu.co.uk
If anyone can name another climber who's done that many new hard routes in the space of about 4 months I'll be supprised!
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Why can some people never just say 'well done' rather than this constant bullshit about grades, which are irrelevant to all but a few percent of climbers?
Why can some people never just say 'well done' rather than this constant bullshit about grades, which are irrelevant to all but a few percent of climbers?
In reply to Gilbs: well said and well done
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Grading aside, it is obviously a very hard line that takes a lot of time, effort and commitment for anyone attempting an ascent,whether it be the first,second or third.
Nice one Neil.
Grading aside, it is obviously a very hard line that takes a lot of time, effort and commitment for anyone attempting an ascent,whether it be the first,second or third.
Nice one Neil.
In reply to Gilbs:
>Why can some people never just say 'well done' rather than this constant bullshit about grades, which are irrelevant to all but a few percent of climbers?
And the "relevance" of 'well done' would be what exactly?
>Why can some people never just say 'well done' rather than this constant bullshit about grades, which are irrelevant to all but a few percent of climbers?
And the "relevance" of 'well done' would be what exactly?
In reply to Al Evans: Neil, get working on my programme, climbed for the first time in 5 weeks today after illness and I'm struggling on 5+/6a at the moment, Carrington was seriously taking the piss out of me and my confidence is shot. Stop pissing about on these minor problems and get me fit!
Al
Al
In reply to Simon1000: a different sequence was found, was originally 8c but now consensus is 8b.
Awesome effort Neil, nice one.
Awesome effort Neil, nice one.
There's another E9 in Scotland now.. If Scottish VS goes up to about English E3 I dread to think what Scottish E9 must be like. Climbing on greased-up razorblades on a pile of rubble with a load of burning cars and empty Tennents bottles at the bottom I suppose ;-P
In reply to Caedmon:
Is Mark still using his english grading system(several 6a moves in a row equal a 6b and so on)or has he started to use the national english system?
We all remmeber what some naughty soul did to the red rose....
Since Pollit turned up in cornwall, repeated his *testpieces* and downgraded them; ah I'm just bitching but really, can't believe a leopard has changed his spots ;}
Is Mark still using his english grading system(several 6a moves in a row equal a 6b and so on)or has he started to use the national english system?
We all remmeber what some naughty soul did to the red rose....
Since Pollit turned up in cornwall, repeated his *testpieces* and downgraded them; ah I'm just bitching but really, can't believe a leopard has changed his spots ;}
In reply to Al Evans:
I find a beer always helps when you're climbing at 5+/6a.
As for Neil's ascent - stunning, I knew the lad had it in him. Now why doesn't he get over here to Ilkley and give us his estimation of the grade of "New Statesman"? For "only" an E8 it sure gets few repeats.
And Scottish E9s? Don't know about them but I think it's a bit of a myth about Scottish routes being graded hard - there's a few soft-touches around the E1 mark at least.
I find a beer always helps when you're climbing at 5+/6a.
As for Neil's ascent - stunning, I knew the lad had it in him. Now why doesn't he get over here to Ilkley and give us his estimation of the grade of "New Statesman"? For "only" an E8 it sure gets few repeats.
And Scottish E9s? Don't know about them but I think it's a bit of a myth about Scottish routes being graded hard - there's a few soft-touches around the E1 mark at least.
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Just wanted to say thanks to all you guys for your comments. The ascent clearly means a hell of a lot to me. The grade debate will always make interesting banter. I've said my bit but we all know how weird and subjective the headpointing thing is, especially as the E-grades were designed for onsight ascents. The good thing is that it really doesn't matter if you're on a VS or an E10, you can still get the same feeling if you're having to dig in deeper than you've ever done before. I guess that's what keeps me going. Big-up to Mr. Bentley and see you all out there.
Neil G
Just wanted to say thanks to all you guys for your comments. The ascent clearly means a hell of a lot to me. The grade debate will always make interesting banter. I've said my bit but we all know how weird and subjective the headpointing thing is, especially as the E-grades were designed for onsight ascents. The good thing is that it really doesn't matter if you're on a VS or an E10, you can still get the same feeling if you're having to dig in deeper than you've ever done before. I guess that's what keeps me going. Big-up to Mr. Bentley and see you all out there.
Neil G
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