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The latest film from the BigUp Productions team has had a mixed response. With an all star cast, and featuring some of the hardest climbs in the world - surely it is a hit?
TRNovice gives us the low down... http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1260
TRNovice gives us the low down... http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1260
In reply to UKC Gear:
Perhaps after King Lines, probably BigUp's most human film, they wanted to change gear.
King Lines was actually a joint effort with Pete Mortimer (Sender Films: The Sharp End, First Ascent, Return to Sender, Front Range Freaks, etc) not a pure BigUp film. That probably explains the slightly more "human" style ... Pete seems to be more interested in "the story" than Josh and Co.
Perhaps after King Lines, probably BigUp's most human film, they wanted to change gear.
King Lines was actually a joint effort with Pete Mortimer (Sender Films: The Sharp End, First Ascent, Return to Sender, Front Range Freaks, etc) not a pure BigUp film. That probably explains the slightly more "human" style ... Pete seems to be more interested in "the story" than Josh and Co.
In reply to UKC Gear: I think the Ozark mountain section is my favourite bit in the film and also for me captures the essence of a bouldering trip - having fun with friend, climbing hard and relaxing.
In reply to UKC Gear:
I think that review gets it spot on.
I also think they haven't got the music quite right on this one. One of the best things about Big Up films is that the music usually gels perfectly with the climbing, which is such a hard thing to do (or seems to be, based on other climbing films). For some reason, it doesn't quite work as well in this one.
I think that review gets it spot on.
I also think they haven't got the music quite right on this one. One of the best things about Big Up films is that the music usually gels perfectly with the climbing, which is such a hard thing to do (or seems to be, based on other climbing films). For some reason, it doesn't quite work as well in this one.
In reply to UKC Gear:
A very thoughtful review. Thank you.
Saw Dosage V and liked it but felt it suffered from a lack of stories/theme - or maybe I just didn't spot them. Also failed to spot a single hold I could have latched for longer than a second!
Some very strong folk out there. More power to 'em.
Mick
A very thoughtful review. Thank you.
Saw Dosage V and liked it but felt it suffered from a lack of stories/theme - or maybe I just didn't spot them. Also failed to spot a single hold I could have latched for longer than a second!
Some very strong folk out there. More power to 'em.
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
I can't help but agree with Peter's review - Dosage 5 is a good film, but not as good as those that have gone before. I found that it does, however, grow on you in subsequent viewings...
Cheers,
Matt
I can't help but agree with Peter's review - Dosage 5 is a good film, but not as good as those that have gone before. I found that it does, however, grow on you in subsequent viewings...
Cheers,
Matt
In reply to m_p_davis:
Contrary to what I say in the review, I watched Dosage V again last night. I had the same reaction - a total lack of involvement. I have heard people suggest that it is better to watch a couple of doses at a time, rather than the whole thing - maybe that would work, but I am not sure.
If I was going to pick a dose, I'd go back an look at just Meltdown. I felt that after having survived the earlier doses I had little left to appreciate the section that I had been most eagerly anticipating.
With the Ozzarks section, it was mentioned to me that maybe they were all beginning to get a bit older and trying to be more "crazee" to counteract this. I'm a big fan of David Graham's climbing, but this section was probably my least favourite.
The comment about the music above is spot on - it was jarring, rather than fitting in perfectly as it had in previous DVDs.
On the whole I was more engaged in Uncle Somebody's L'Etranger (http://www.unclesomebody.com/blog/?p=39) as an HD climbing film.
Contrary to what I say in the review, I watched Dosage V again last night. I had the same reaction - a total lack of involvement. I have heard people suggest that it is better to watch a couple of doses at a time, rather than the whole thing - maybe that would work, but I am not sure.
If I was going to pick a dose, I'd go back an look at just Meltdown. I felt that after having survived the earlier doses I had little left to appreciate the section that I had been most eagerly anticipating.
With the Ozzarks section, it was mentioned to me that maybe they were all beginning to get a bit older and trying to be more "crazee" to counteract this. I'm a big fan of David Graham's climbing, but this section was probably my least favourite.
The comment about the music above is spot on - it was jarring, rather than fitting in perfectly as it had in previous DVDs.
On the whole I was more engaged in Uncle Somebody's L'Etranger (http://www.unclesomebody.com/blog/?p=39) as an HD climbing film.
In reply to TRNovice: Ozark dude, Ozark http://www.ozarkmtns.com/index.asp not sure about the 'crazee'ness, perhaps just the jaded view of an ageing gent losing his youth?
In reply to TRNovice: watched D5 the other day and i agree with the review.
Perhaps Big Up need to do something different...maybe a few less young yanks and more on the locals-that be what would interest me anyway.
Perhaps Big Up need to do something different...maybe a few less young yanks and more on the locals-that be what would interest me anyway.
In reply to witnessthis: I'd like to see some ice climbing/dry tooling in the next Dosage, to replace a bit of a bouldering. The trad dose at the end of Dosage V was by far the best bit - more please!
In reply to witnessthis:
To be fair, Josh Lowell said that Patxi Usobiaga wasn't (by his own admission) on form when they had the cameras in Catalunya, but would feature more in a forthcoming BigUP film.
To be fair, Josh Lowell said that Patxi Usobiaga wasn't (by his own admission) on form when they had the cameras in Catalunya, but would feature more in a forthcoming BigUP film.
In reply to witnessthis:
Maybe like...
Daila Ojeda - Spanish
Mike Fuselier - French
Axel Ballay - French
Patxi Usobiaga - Spanish
Dani Andrada - Spanish
Ty Landman - dual US / UK, which is what all the really cool boulderers are of course
> (In reply to TRNovice) ...maybe a few less young yanks
Maybe like...
Daila Ojeda - Spanish
Mike Fuselier - French
Axel Ballay - French
Patxi Usobiaga - Spanish
Dani Andrada - Spanish
Ty Landman - dual US / UK, which is what all the really cool boulderers are of course
In reply to Jenn:
Chris Sharma - seeking Spannish citizenship (presumably dual as well)
How many non-Brits appear in films by UK climbing set-ups BTW (Jude Spanken doesn't count)?
Chris Sharma - seeking Spannish citizenship (presumably dual as well)
How many non-Brits appear in films by UK climbing set-ups BTW (Jude Spanken doesn't count)?
In reply to TRNovice: Maybe more on the crag developers eg Andrada or Laurent Triay in france,bits of human interest but more locals centered,just an added touch not a whole DVD...
In reply to tobyfk:
Good point, but equally they spent much more time on Lisa Rands' section in Dosage I, or Dave Graham's in Ticino in Dosage III, or Katie Brown's in Pilgramage.
> (In reply to UKC Gear)
>
> King Lines was actually a joint effort with Pete Mortimer [...]. That probably explains the slightly more "human" style
>
> King Lines was actually a joint effort with Pete Mortimer [...]. That probably explains the slightly more "human" style
Good point, but equally they spent much more time on Lisa Rands' section in Dosage I, or Dave Graham's in Ticino in Dosage III, or Katie Brown's in Pilgramage.
In reply to TRNovice:
interesting review and i take your point about it being a bit souless but i was fairly positive on the whole. I don't think there was a single duff dose. Even Yangshuo had some superb looking rock architecture plus quite a bit of human interest footage of the nearby town. I think the inclusion of Catalunya shows their finger is on the pulse as it's very much the vogue area atm. Some more info in each segment about the nature of the atual climbing and the type of moves would be nice but that's a fairly minor criticism. I think the Yosemite bouldering really stood out for me as well......even as a committed route climber. I'll certainly get it out to watch again.
4 stars out of 5 on the internationally accepted Amazon grading system
interesting review and i take your point about it being a bit souless but i was fairly positive on the whole. I don't think there was a single duff dose. Even Yangshuo had some superb looking rock architecture plus quite a bit of human interest footage of the nearby town. I think the inclusion of Catalunya shows their finger is on the pulse as it's very much the vogue area atm. Some more info in each segment about the nature of the atual climbing and the type of moves would be nice but that's a fairly minor criticism. I think the Yosemite bouldering really stood out for me as well......even as a committed route climber. I'll certainly get it out to watch again.
4 stars out of 5 on the internationally accepted Amazon grading system
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Morgs,
How many routes did you see completed in the Catalunya section? The Sharma projects looked amazing, but this section seemed much more like it was teeing up a future film to me.
Morgs,
How many routes did you see completed in the Catalunya section? The Sharma projects looked amazing, but this section seemed much more like it was teeing up a future film to me.
In reply to TRNovice:
hmm...i'm pretty sure Daila did one, then someone gave her a bottle of wine....but unusually i don't think the name/grade was shown....yeah that part did seem to have a bit of a taster/teaser feel to it.
hmm...i'm pretty sure Daila did one, then someone gave her a bottle of wine....but unusually i don't think the name/grade was shown....yeah that part did seem to have a bit of a taster/teaser feel to it.
In reply to TimS:
Great review TR! Slight hijack..A mate who was emigrating in the 70's gave me a couple of his "albums" , one was a certain Bruce Springteen . Tother was the "Ozark Mountain Daredevils".
Have to say the Ozarks were by far my favourite!
> (In reply to TRNovice) Ozark dude, Ozark
Great review TR! Slight hijack..A mate who was emigrating in the 70's gave me a couple of his "albums" , one was a certain Bruce Springteen . Tother was the "Ozark Mountain Daredevils".
Have to say the Ozarks were by far my favourite!
In reply to Padraig:
At least he spelt "Ozarks" correctly, I feel like I'm auditioning for Climb :-o.
At least he spelt "Ozarks" correctly, I feel like I'm auditioning for Climb :-o.
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Were you somehow distracted during Dalia's climb then Morgs?
And I thought she said that it was 8a+ before she climbed it.
Were you somehow distracted during Dalia's climb then Morgs?
And I thought she said that it was 8a+ before she climbed it.
In reply to TRNovice:
>How many non-Brits appear in films by UK climbing set-ups BTW (Jude Spanken doesn't count)?
Jean Minh Trin Thin Lin Thieu (bless you)
Richard Eckiehead (great name)
Loads of Aussies
Sonnie J Trotter
Lynn Hill
etc etc
I'm just plucking these names out of a quick think btw, but they've all been seen in various UK films over the last 10- 15 years or so.....
My objection to these glossy films is just that- climbing is too boring a sport to watch on video. I could fall asleep happily to any number of Josh Lowell films featuring Sharma cruising up route A, B or C- no matter how hard or impressive the Lines are. Glossy works well in Transworld boarding films because the sequences typically feature something that takes your breath away. Terje Haakonsen doing a double backflip off a 50 foot drop is 100% more attention grabbing than any sport climb...
That's where films like Undeveloped score- there's some atmosphere and tension.
Davie
>How many non-Brits appear in films by UK climbing set-ups BTW (Jude Spanken doesn't count)?
Jean Minh Trin Thin Lin Thieu (bless you)
Richard Eckiehead (great name)
Loads of Aussies
Sonnie J Trotter
Lynn Hill
etc etc
I'm just plucking these names out of a quick think btw, but they've all been seen in various UK films over the last 10- 15 years or so.....
My objection to these glossy films is just that- climbing is too boring a sport to watch on video. I could fall asleep happily to any number of Josh Lowell films featuring Sharma cruising up route A, B or C- no matter how hard or impressive the Lines are. Glossy works well in Transworld boarding films because the sequences typically feature something that takes your breath away. Terje Haakonsen doing a double backflip off a 50 foot drop is 100% more attention grabbing than any sport climb...
That's where films like Undeveloped score- there's some atmosphere and tension.
Davie
In reply to TRNovice:
Along with Loskot/Emmett DWS in Dosage 2, this is probably my favourite Dose of the series.
> Dave Graham's in Ticino in Dosage III
Along with Loskot/Emmett DWS in Dosage 2, this is probably my favourite Dose of the series.
In reply to Wee Davie:
I couln't agree more, and that's why the best climbing films (or Doses) focus as much on the people than the climbing. Think Graham in Ticino as mentioned, Caldwell on the nose, Sharma on Realisation, Emmett and crew DWSing in thailand, Didi's saga in First Ascent, all of Pilgrimage, all of E11, all of King Lines etc.
Climbing footage on its own is fundamentally dull. It's only when you add the human element behind it does it become fascinating.
> Terje Haakonsen doing a double backflip off a 50 foot drop is 100% more attention grabbing than any sport climb
I couln't agree more, and that's why the best climbing films (or Doses) focus as much on the people than the climbing. Think Graham in Ticino as mentioned, Caldwell on the nose, Sharma on Realisation, Emmett and crew DWSing in thailand, Didi's saga in First Ascent, all of Pilgrimage, all of E11, all of King Lines etc.
Climbing footage on its own is fundamentally dull. It's only when you add the human element behind it does it become fascinating.
In reply to Jenn:
Apart from Beth, the female quotient in DV was fairly limited.
> (In reply to witnessthis)
> [...]
>
> Maybe like...
>
> Daila Ojeda - Spanish
>
would have been good to see more of Daila....she gets a mention in the cover blurb but you only see her on an un-named (?) route for about 2 minutes.> [...]
>
> Maybe like...
>
> Daila Ojeda - Spanish
>
Apart from Beth, the female quotient in DV was fairly limited.
In reply to Wee Davie:
So about the same proportion then - but we seem to complain less about the Brit films - no?
So about the same proportion then - but we seem to complain less about the Brit films - no?
In reply to Morgan Woods:
There is more of Daila in the deleted scenes - agree that the female quotient was lower than in other parts of the series.
There is more of Daila in the deleted scenes - agree that the female quotient was lower than in other parts of the series.
In reply to UKC Gear: thought the yosemite bouldering sequences were awesomely filmed, just nice montage and attention to lighting, angles etc. A real step up from most production values, even on something like king lines which previously set the bar. Also, obviously a lot of travel involved in making this film, so clearly a major investment for BigUP.
i have to say i don't particularly mind the 'bitty' aspect of the dosages, as that's what they are: doses. Even though some other films, like hard xs, didn't really gel with me for exactly that reason, the dosages still have a common thread of very hard & physical climbing throughout which keeps them following a theme.
good review although slightly got the feeling that you were just missing the usual 3 out of 5 doses of sharma as per other dosage movies...?
f
i have to say i don't particularly mind the 'bitty' aspect of the dosages, as that's what they are: doses. Even though some other films, like hard xs, didn't really gel with me for exactly that reason, the dosages still have a common thread of very hard & physical climbing throughout which keeps them following a theme.
good review although slightly got the feeling that you were just missing the usual 3 out of 5 doses of sharma as per other dosage movies...?
f
In reply to Wee Davie:
Or even Rikard Ekehaed - I've had to guess the spelling based on the corrected pronunciation I was taught by some lovely Swedes I met in the US. They were understandably scathing about our Anglicisation of his name.
> (In reply to TRNovice)
> Jean Minh Trin Thin Lin Thieu (bless you)
> Richard Eckiehead (great name)
> Jean Minh Trin Thin Lin Thieu (bless you)
> Richard Eckiehead (great name)
Or even Rikard Ekehaed - I've had to guess the spelling based on the corrected pronunciation I was taught by some lovely Swedes I met in the US. They were understandably scathing about our Anglicisation of his name.
In reply to fred_stone:
>
Hi Fred,
I was questioning that myself, but I think instead I was missing the general human element, regardless of the climber involved. Of course with Sharma, you get that immediately as BigUp (and others have spent so much time talking to him on other DVDs), its the same with Graham, Rands, Caldwell and Rodden (though maybe to a lesser degree). I think I would have been happier to have had a bit less bouldering and replaced it with more extensive coverage of some lines (Jade was the only one covered in this way) and some more time talking to people like Robinson and Woods (but then maybe they aren't great talking heads). Maybe more background on Andrada and Usobiaga would have been good - having Sharma speak to Dani and translate into English for the camera was a good interlude (maybe on the extras?) which could have been expanded on.
So I think I was missing the way that they treated the Sharma segments, rather than Sharma himself.
>
> good review although slightly got the feeling that you were just missing the usual 3 out of 5 doses of sharma as per other dosage movies...?
Hi Fred,
I was questioning that myself, but I think instead I was missing the general human element, regardless of the climber involved. Of course with Sharma, you get that immediately as BigUp (and others have spent so much time talking to him on other DVDs), its the same with Graham, Rands, Caldwell and Rodden (though maybe to a lesser degree). I think I would have been happier to have had a bit less bouldering and replaced it with more extensive coverage of some lines (Jade was the only one covered in this way) and some more time talking to people like Robinson and Woods (but then maybe they aren't great talking heads). Maybe more background on Andrada and Usobiaga would have been good - having Sharma speak to Dani and translate into English for the camera was a good interlude (maybe on the extras?) which could have been expanded on.
So I think I was missing the way that they treated the Sharma segments, rather than Sharma himself.
In reply to UKC Gear:
I've got to say that on the whole I disagree with most of the comments posted on here. I thought doasage five featured what a climbing film needs most - a shit load of climbing. Its this style which makes stick it one of my favourite films of al time. OK they could have spent more time interviewing and talking to people but personally i would prefer they didn't i dont want to know about beth rodden building a house or any kind of biography really i just want to see her sending hard trad routes and giving a bit of back story to each one, climbing films should focus on the climbing and not the people or at least thats how I see it feel free to disagree but i think dosage five was the best yet due to the lack of interviews not the inclusion of them.
I've got to say that on the whole I disagree with most of the comments posted on here. I thought doasage five featured what a climbing film needs most - a shit load of climbing. Its this style which makes stick it one of my favourite films of al time. OK they could have spent more time interviewing and talking to people but personally i would prefer they didn't i dont want to know about beth rodden building a house or any kind of biography really i just want to see her sending hard trad routes and giving a bit of back story to each one, climbing films should focus on the climbing and not the people or at least thats how I see it feel free to disagree but i think dosage five was the best yet due to the lack of interviews not the inclusion of them.
a lot of this just comes down to taste. i love it, and i love all the others. it might not be the best one but i'm just glad to have a new one i haven't watched to death. i actually think this one is the first dosage where they've totally nailed the music, all the others have at least one duff track which ruins it for me. even the ivan greene section would be okay if he didn't start singing half way through. the transworld comparison is interesting, i said on UKB i think josh lowell is like the ty evans of climbing, it's been established we've got a lot of ex-skaters on here so some of you will get what i mean i guess. it looks absolutely gorgeous, static landscape shots included, slick as hell in a good way. more story wouldn't have hurt but that's not a major quibble. and i would say jade is a centrepiece and a very good one. and the golpe estado footage is sick, i'm glad i don't have to wait til after sharma's sent the thing to see it. didn't everyone else throw on king lines when you heard jumbo love went?
this all sounds a bit too arse kissing now, but i really do think big up are responsible for some of the best climbing films ever, dosage five might not be the best but's it's still up there with them.
this all sounds a bit too arse kissing now, but i really do think big up are responsible for some of the best climbing films ever, dosage five might not be the best but's it's still up there with them.
In reply to last ascent:
That was really the essence of the review - if it was a film produced by a bunch of nobodies, it would probably have been OK, but I don't think it lived up to the standards of their previous films, let alone establishing a new standard. I guess I've just come to expect better from them.
>
> i really do think big up are responsible for some of the best climbing films ever, dosage five might not be the best but's it's still up there with them.
> i really do think big up are responsible for some of the best climbing films ever, dosage five might not be the best but's it's still up there with them.
That was really the essence of the review - if it was a film produced by a bunch of nobodies, it would probably have been OK, but I don't think it lived up to the standards of their previous films, let alone establishing a new standard. I guess I've just come to expect better from them.
Beth Rodden's rack was the highlight of the DVD for me. Would like to see more of that in future films. Bo)
In reply to UKC Gear:
Have to agree totally with the review. Am watching it now and am very disappointed. It's like an MTV video of climbing. You never see them getting into a route.
Bah money back please!
Have to agree totally with the review. Am watching it now and am very disappointed. It's like an MTV video of climbing. You never see them getting into a route.
Bah money back please!
In reply to ClimberEd:
About the closest was maybe either Jade (which has been on the internet for a while), or The Invasion Project (whatever it ended up being called) with Graham in the Ozarks [right spelling!!!].
About the closest was maybe either Jade (which has been on the internet for a while), or The Invasion Project (whatever it ended up being called) with Graham in the Ozarks [right spelling!!!].
In reply to UKC Gear:
Very insightful review. Massively echoes my feelings post first viewing where i felt a bit disappointed. I was especially looking forward to the China dose but actually it was quite uninspiring. Hard to say exactly why - it did look like a stunning place... Could be that i do need to see more about the climbers to really get into their experience of Yangshou.
Second viewing did improve actually, probably because i changed my expectations and just watched a bunch of cool doses.
Very insightful review. Massively echoes my feelings post first viewing where i felt a bit disappointed. I was especially looking forward to the China dose but actually it was quite uninspiring. Hard to say exactly why - it did look like a stunning place... Could be that i do need to see more about the climbers to really get into their experience of Yangshou.
Second viewing did improve actually, probably because i changed my expectations and just watched a bunch of cool doses.
In reply to DrGav:
The scenery in Yangshou looked amazing, but something was missing in the climbing and the look of the climbs, not sure what or why really.
The scenery in Yangshou looked amazing, but something was missing in the climbing and the look of the climbs, not sure what or why really.
In reply to TRNovice:
Yes - for example compared to the Venezuala clip in King Lines which left me open-mouthed.
Yes - for example compared to the Venezuala clip in King Lines which left me open-mouthed.
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